Your choice of Castrol is sound. I do not see anything abnormal about a 20 year old engine other than it's clean.
Honda S2000 - Oil Recommendations & Cam Lobe wear
- Thread starter DV0993
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I would use moly as an additive. I have seen 0 adverse effects from it and tons of benefits, including cold start and extreme pressure(high revs/loads) protection. It also acts in synergy with ZDDP, which is a crucial additive for your cam lobes. They would appreciate that.
Alternatively I would run Magnatec every 30k miles for a similar plating/protection.
I have not run it myself, it is info from this forum.
Alternatively I would run Magnatec every 30k miles for a similar plating/protection.
I have not run it myself, it is info from this forum.
Originally Posted by DrDanger
I would use moly as an additive. I have seen 0 adverse effects from it and tons of benefits, including cold start and extreme pressure(high revs/loads) protection. It also acts in synergy with ZDDP, which is a crucial additive for your cam lobes. They would appreciate that.
All your opinion of course, right? Do you have any actual standardized test results to provide? I know the additive companies don't have any, I've checked.
How would you get cold start benefits, does it somehow lower the viscosity of the oil?
I would use moly as an additive. I have seen 0 adverse effects from it and tons of benefits, including cold start and extreme pressure(high revs/loads) protection. It also acts in synergy with ZDDP, which is a crucial additive for your cam lobes. They would appreciate that.
All your opinion of course, right? Do you have any actual standardized test results to provide? I know the additive companies don't have any, I've checked.
How would you get cold start benefits, does it somehow lower the viscosity of the oil?
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Originally Posted by zeng
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
Not sure i like the scoring on those cam lobes....
How about Penrite HPR5 5W-40? I think it might benefit from the high Zinc and Phsohorous.
No scoring that I can see.
I thought the scoring marks are rather obvious as FCD perceived, not on one but all three pictures, with darkened marks around cams contacting zones giving indications of occurence of high temperature phenomena.
Good news is, OP claimed the said zones are smooth which I'm not doubting its validity .........
even though OP may have not done a 'feeling' test by 'scatching' the scoring areas with finger nails.
AW additives had done its job here, IMHO.
Looks normal to me.
Confirming they are smooth, I wasn't pleased to see them there! The "darkening" to me seems like a less severe type of wear. Whilst a couple of the other lobes showed some feint "lines" (which were smooth) that seemed a little more suspect.
Originally Posted by zeng
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
Not sure i like the scoring on those cam lobes....
How about Penrite HPR5 5W-40? I think it might benefit from the high Zinc and Phsohorous.
No scoring that I can see.
I thought the scoring marks are rather obvious as FCD perceived, not on one but all three pictures, with darkened marks around cams contacting zones giving indications of occurence of high temperature phenomena.
Good news is, OP claimed the said zones are smooth which I'm not doubting its validity .........
even though OP may have not done a 'feeling' test by 'scatching' the scoring areas with finger nails.
AW additives had done its job here, IMHO.
Looks normal to me.
Confirming they are smooth, I wasn't pleased to see them there! The "darkening" to me seems like a less severe type of wear. Whilst a couple of the other lobes showed some feint "lines" (which were smooth) that seemed a little more suspect.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by DrDanger
I would use moly as an additive. I have seen 0 adverse effects from it and tons of benefits, including cold start and extreme pressure(high revs/loads) protection. It also acts in synergy with ZDDP, which is a crucial additive for your cam lobes. They would appreciate that.
All your opinion of course, right? Do you have any actual standardized test results to provide? I know the additive companies don't have any, I've checked.
How would you get cold start benefits, does it somehow lower the viscosity of the oil?
There is a study published on this very forum in a ZDDP topic, showing synergies and benefits from moly and said ZDDP.
On your 2nd question, reduced friction tends to help with starts and no it has nothing to do with oil viscosity.
Originally Posted by DrDanger
I would use moly as an additive. I have seen 0 adverse effects from it and tons of benefits, including cold start and extreme pressure(high revs/loads) protection. It also acts in synergy with ZDDP, which is a crucial additive for your cam lobes. They would appreciate that.
All your opinion of course, right? Do you have any actual standardized test results to provide? I know the additive companies don't have any, I've checked.
How would you get cold start benefits, does it somehow lower the viscosity of the oil?
There is a study published on this very forum in a ZDDP topic, showing synergies and benefits from moly and said ZDDP.
On your 2nd question, reduced friction tends to help with starts and no it has nothing to do with oil viscosity.
Found the actual thread, its a few posts down.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4853520/primary-vs-secondary-zddp
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4853520/primary-vs-secondary-zddp
30wt oils tend to fall into 2 distinct classes. B5) and >3.5HTHS (DEXOS2, A3/B4, C3/C2, VW 502/504/507.) In specifying a 10W30 back in the late 90's they were looking for oils (most likely) on the the thicker end of the 30wt scale.
As it's a non turbocharged, honda engine with roller cam followers, as long as the oil is clean, it'll run just fine
While the Castol 10W30 FST falls on the 'thin' end of 30wt oils, you'll have no issues. Please don't waste your money on MOSâ‚‚ additives. All modern oils are designed with a balanced additive package, there is no benefit to such additives, other than turning your oil black instantly.
If you intend to beat on the car at the circuit, stepping up to a 40wt oil (0W40 Edge or DX-5W40 Magnatec if you're a Castrol fan) may be advisable. Simply as a result of the age of the engine, and wanting a slightly thicker oil to fill in the increased bearing clearances at sustained high RPM and high temperature operation.
Jordan
As it's a non turbocharged, honda engine with roller cam followers, as long as the oil is clean, it'll run just fine
If you intend to beat on the car at the circuit, stepping up to a 40wt oil (0W40 Edge or DX-5W40 Magnatec if you're a Castrol fan) may be advisable. Simply as a result of the age of the engine, and wanting a slightly thicker oil to fill in the increased bearing clearances at sustained high RPM and high temperature operation.
Jordan
Originally Posted by JFAllen
30wt oils tend to fall into 2 distinct classes. B5) and >3.5HTHS (DEXOS2, A3/B4, C3/C2, VW 502/504/507.) In specifying a 10W30 back in the late 90's they were looking for oils (most likely) on the the thicker end of the 30wt scale.
As it's a non turbocharged, honda engine with roller cam followers, as long as the oil is clean, it'll run just fine
While the Castol 10W30 FST falls on the 'thin' end of 30wt oils, you'll have no issues. Please don't waste your money on MOSâ‚‚ additives. All modern oils are designed with a balanced additive package, there is no benefit to such additives, other than turning your oil black instantly.
If you intend to beat on the car at the circuit, stepping up to a 40wt oil (0W40 Edge or DX-5W40 Magnatec if you're a Castrol fan) may be advisable. Simply as a result of the age of the engine, and wanting a slightly thicker oil to fill in the increased bearing clearances at sustained high RPM and high temperature operation.
Jordan
Thanks Jordan,
A well rounded response! I'm definitely not brand loyal. Have heard that Shell Helix 5w40 could be a good option for the s2000, as well as the penrite 5w40 so I may try one of those once I run out of my edge bottles.
Will cut the moly out also, perhaps I'll throw it my 1996 Magna (Diamante in the US I think!)
30wt oils tend to fall into 2 distinct classes. B5) and >3.5HTHS (DEXOS2, A3/B4, C3/C2, VW 502/504/507.) In specifying a 10W30 back in the late 90's they were looking for oils (most likely) on the the thicker end of the 30wt scale.
As it's a non turbocharged, honda engine with roller cam followers, as long as the oil is clean, it'll run just fine
If you intend to beat on the car at the circuit, stepping up to a 40wt oil (0W40 Edge or DX-5W40 Magnatec if you're a Castrol fan) may be advisable. Simply as a result of the age of the engine, and wanting a slightly thicker oil to fill in the increased bearing clearances at sustained high RPM and high temperature operation.
Jordan
Thanks Jordan,
A well rounded response! I'm definitely not brand loyal. Have heard that Shell Helix 5w40 could be a good option for the s2000, as well as the penrite 5w40 so I may try one of those once I run out of my edge bottles.
Will cut the moly out also, perhaps I'll throw it my 1996 Magna (Diamante in the US I think!)
Originally Posted by DV0993
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Originally Posted by zeng
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
No scoring that I can see.
I thought the scoring marks are rather obvious as FCD perceived, not on one but all three pictures, with darkened marks around cams contacting zones giving indications of occurence of high temperature phenomena.
Good news is, OP claimed the said zones are smooth which I'm not doubting its validity .........
even though OP may have not done a 'feeling' test by 'scatching' the scoring areas with finger nails.
AW additives had done its job here, IMHO.
Looks normal to me.
Confirming they are smooth, I wasn't pleased to see them there! The "darkening" to me seems like a less severe type of wear. Whilst a couple of the other lobes showed some feint "lines" (which were smooth) that seemed a little more suspect.
Agree with BMWTD that it could be 'normal', and it should be 'normal' as per OP feedback.
IMHO, the 'darkening' is the ending stage (prior to end stage) of mechanical surface that is well preceded by numerous high load/high rpm/abrupt engine acceleration .... >>>
increased operating oil temperature which is still well functioning with help from AW ..... >>>>
reduced operating viscosity and MOFT ..... >>>>
breakdown or breakage of protective MOFT or film strength on original smooth factory surface ..... >>>
abrasion and/or adhesion wear of a magnitude leading to the smooth factory surface being 'roughened' to varying degrees ..... >>>>
reduction of specific OFT requirements at similar level of (as before) operating oil viscosity ...... >>>
promotion of increasing severity and duration times of boundary lubrication regimes over mixed lubrication regimes,,,,,, and over EHD regimes and over HD regimes ...... >>>>>
Till the ending stage of light yellowish markings (at moderately high temp, which is always preceded by roughing contacting surface of a certain magnitude ) ...... >>>
dark yellowish darkenings (at high temperatures).
Just before a complete seizure of contacting surfaces, there will probably be dark gray darkenings due to super high temperatures though that may not be always the case.
Hence, there is a basis for Indy shops recommending a viscosity grade higher or two for 'high mileage' vehicles and.......
if I may add, derivatives of solid lubricants in Molybdenum or Titanium or Boron may be considered to mitigate 'as is increased surface roughness' of contacting surfaces such as cams etc .
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
Originally Posted by zeng
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
No scoring that I can see.
I thought the scoring marks are rather obvious as FCD perceived, not on one but all three pictures, with darkened marks around cams contacting zones giving indications of occurence of high temperature phenomena.
Good news is, OP claimed the said zones are smooth which I'm not doubting its validity .........
even though OP may have not done a 'feeling' test by 'scatching' the scoring areas with finger nails.
AW additives had done its job here, IMHO.
Looks normal to me.
Confirming they are smooth, I wasn't pleased to see them there! The "darkening" to me seems like a less severe type of wear. Whilst a couple of the other lobes showed some feint "lines" (which were smooth) that seemed a little more suspect.
Agree with BMWTD that it could be 'normal', and it should be 'normal' as per OP feedback.
IMHO, the 'darkening' is the ending stage (prior to end stage) of mechanical surface that is well preceded by numerous high load/high rpm/abrupt engine acceleration .... >>>
increased operating oil temperature which is still well functioning with help from AW ..... >>>>
reduced operating viscosity and MOFT ..... >>>>
breakdown or breakage of protective MOFT or film strength on original smooth factory surface ..... >>>
abrasion and/or adhesion wear of a magnitude leading to the smooth factory surface being 'roughened' to varying degrees ..... >>>>
reduction of specific OFT requirements at similar level of (as before) operating oil viscosity ...... >>>
promotion of increasing severity and duration times of boundary lubrication regimes over mixed lubrication regimes,,,,,, and over EHD regimes and over HD regimes ...... >>>>>
Till the ending stage of light yellowish markings (at moderately high temp, which is always preceded by roughing contacting surface of a certain magnitude ) ...... >>>
dark yellowish darkenings (at high temperatures).
Just before a complete seizure of contacting surfaces, there will probably be dark gray darkenings due to super high temperatures though that may not be always the case.
Hence, there is a basis for Indy shops recommending a viscosity grade higher or two for 'high mileage' vehicles and.......
if I may add, derivatives of solid lubricants in Molybdenum or Titanium or Boron may be considered to mitigate 'as is increased surface roughness' of contacting surfaces such as cams etc .
Last edited:
Originally Posted by DV0993
A well rounded response! I'm definitely not brand loyal. Have heard that Shell Helix 5w40 could be a good option for the s2000, as well as the penrite 5w40 so I may try one of those once I run out of my edge bottles.
Will cut the moly out also, perhaps I'll throw it my 1996 Magna (Diamante in the US I think!)
I'm not sure about Penrite additive package, but my vote goes to SHU 5W40 for its 50ish ppm of Moly and 70ish ppm of Boron in your context.
Well, you don't need SHU for a new pair of contacting cam surfaces IMO.
A well rounded response! I'm definitely not brand loyal. Have heard that Shell Helix 5w40 could be a good option for the s2000, as well as the penrite 5w40 so I may try one of those once I run out of my edge bottles.
Will cut the moly out also, perhaps I'll throw it my 1996 Magna (Diamante in the US I think!)
I'm not sure about Penrite additive package, but my vote goes to SHU 5W40 for its 50ish ppm of Moly and 70ish ppm of Boron in your context.
Well, you don't need SHU for a new pair of contacting cam surfaces IMO.
The Million Mile Toyota Tundra truck used dealer bulk oil and a Toyota 50% efficiency OEM filter. It's all verified by the servicing dealer. So if that truck could run on basic oil with a factory filter then it's really not worth over thinking. That's 1.6 million kilometers.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by DV0993
I acquired a 1999 AP1 Honda S2000 about 2 months ago.
Originally, the S2K was spec'd from Honda with 10w30 Mineral Oil (or 5w40 for cold climates). Acknowledging that oils have advanced greatly since then, I'm looking for recommendations. Currently, I've gone with Castrol Edge Titanium FST 10w30. I assume (correct me if I'm wrong) that this is a better oil than the equivalent 5w30 as there are less VIs in the oil?
Hi Mate,
for cam wear I think ZDDP (zinc) is your friend, as it's a well proven anti-wear agent.
The Castrol Edge 10W30 is an ILSAC (GF-5) oil, so that means lower HTHS (min oil film) and limited ZDDP ( B5 oil.
However the Castrol Edge 5W30 in Australia is a Euro A3/B4 oil with a higher HTHS (> 3.5 cP) and it's "only" API SL (not SN) which means it doesn't have a limit placed on it's ZDDP level. I hear it has about 1000 ppm Zinc. It's still passes all the API SN quality tests, it's just is above the chemical limit. This SN Vs SL ZDDP limit only applies to 30 grades and below, so not 40 grade oils.
So in Australia, between Castrol Edge 10W30 (SN, GF-5, A5/B5) and Castrol Edge 5W30 (SL, A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5), I would definitely select the Edge 5W30 A3/B4 for your application as it's is the more performance based Castrol oil that is both thicker and it carries more ZDDP.
Also consider some full synthetic Penrite oil like HPR0 (0W30, SL, A3/B4, 1050ppm Zn) or HPR5 (5W40, SN, A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, 1050 ppm Zinc).
Here is a link to the Penrite zinc levels
I acquired a 1999 AP1 Honda S2000 about 2 months ago.
Originally, the S2K was spec'd from Honda with 10w30 Mineral Oil (or 5w40 for cold climates). Acknowledging that oils have advanced greatly since then, I'm looking for recommendations. Currently, I've gone with Castrol Edge Titanium FST 10w30. I assume (correct me if I'm wrong) that this is a better oil than the equivalent 5w30 as there are less VIs in the oil?
Hi Mate,
for cam wear I think ZDDP (zinc) is your friend, as it's a well proven anti-wear agent.
The Castrol Edge 10W30 is an ILSAC (GF-5) oil, so that means lower HTHS (min oil film) and limited ZDDP ( B5 oil.
However the Castrol Edge 5W30 in Australia is a Euro A3/B4 oil with a higher HTHS (> 3.5 cP) and it's "only" API SL (not SN) which means it doesn't have a limit placed on it's ZDDP level. I hear it has about 1000 ppm Zinc. It's still passes all the API SN quality tests, it's just is above the chemical limit. This SN Vs SL ZDDP limit only applies to 30 grades and below, so not 40 grade oils.
So in Australia, between Castrol Edge 10W30 (SN, GF-5, A5/B5) and Castrol Edge 5W30 (SL, A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5), I would definitely select the Edge 5W30 A3/B4 for your application as it's is the more performance based Castrol oil that is both thicker and it carries more ZDDP.
Also consider some full synthetic Penrite oil like HPR0 (0W30, SL, A3/B4, 1050ppm Zn) or HPR5 (5W40, SN, A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, 1050 ppm Zinc).
Here is a link to the Penrite zinc levels
Welcome DV0993, I would use Hyperlube ZRA it's a polymer ester with great anti-wear features. See this BITOG thread. It's not a friction modifier like MOS2. You can find it on ebay. I hope it's not too expensive for you. I know shipping is a deal breaker. I've purchased items from Australia. Great outback parts are made in Australia.
Originally Posted by Onetor
Welcome DV0993, I would use Hyperlube ZRA it's a polymer ester with great anti-wear features. See this BITOG thread. It's not a friction modifier like MOS2. You can find it on ebay. I hope it's not too expensive for you. I know shipping is a deal breaker. I've purchased items from Australia. Great outback parts are made in Australia.
Thanks Onetor,
Penrite (Australia) have recently released a Zinc additive - Though based on the above feedback on this forum I'm hestitant to mess with additive packages going forward. Perhaps a small boost (1/4 - 1/2 bottle) may the way forward?
I'm going to get a UOA done at the end of this OCI.
Welcome DV0993, I would use Hyperlube ZRA it's a polymer ester with great anti-wear features. See this BITOG thread. It's not a friction modifier like MOS2. You can find it on ebay. I hope it's not too expensive for you. I know shipping is a deal breaker. I've purchased items from Australia. Great outback parts are made in Australia.
Thanks Onetor,
Penrite (Australia) have recently released a Zinc additive - Though based on the above feedback on this forum I'm hestitant to mess with additive packages going forward. Perhaps a small boost (1/4 - 1/2 bottle) may the way forward?
I'm going to get a UOA done at the end of this OCI.
Originally Posted by DV0993
Penrite (Australia) have recently released a Zinc additive - Though based on the above feedback on this forum I'm hestitant to mess with additive packages going forward. Perhaps a small boost (1/4 - 1/2 bottle) may the way forward?
I'm going to get a UOA done at the end of this OCI.
I'm using the new Penrite ZDDP additive right now. Just half a bottle. It should take my Castrol GTX 14W40 UltraClean from about 800ppm Zn to about 1200ppm Zn, so I estimate.
I've noticed that my car has a "Tappy" sound that can be quite loud, the neighbours look and the wife comments on how loud the car is. I've tried various oil viscosity - thick and thin, different oil bases - mineral and synthetic, and various oil filters. After much experimenting, I've found that high ZDDP oils are the quietest. So I boost my regular zinc level oils, and it does make a difference.
An oil formulator here, SonofJoe, once commented, that if you had to add anything to oil, then ZDDP was the one to use. It both reduces metal wear on the engine, plus it's an anti-oxidant to preserve the oil, it's also very unlikely to react with anything else in the oil and cause a blending issue.
BTW Nulon make a 10W40 Full Synthetic which is high in moly. You could give that a go too.
Penrite (Australia) have recently released a Zinc additive - Though based on the above feedback on this forum I'm hestitant to mess with additive packages going forward. Perhaps a small boost (1/4 - 1/2 bottle) may the way forward?
I'm going to get a UOA done at the end of this OCI.
I'm using the new Penrite ZDDP additive right now. Just half a bottle. It should take my Castrol GTX 14W40 UltraClean from about 800ppm Zn to about 1200ppm Zn, so I estimate.
I've noticed that my car has a "Tappy" sound that can be quite loud, the neighbours look and the wife comments on how loud the car is. I've tried various oil viscosity - thick and thin, different oil bases - mineral and synthetic, and various oil filters. After much experimenting, I've found that high ZDDP oils are the quietest. So I boost my regular zinc level oils, and it does make a difference.
An oil formulator here, SonofJoe, once commented, that if you had to add anything to oil, then ZDDP was the one to use. It both reduces metal wear on the engine, plus it's an anti-oxidant to preserve the oil, it's also very unlikely to react with anything else in the oil and cause a blending issue.
BTW Nulon make a 10W40 Full Synthetic which is high in moly. You could give that a go too.
Originally Posted by SR5
Originally Posted by DV0993
Penrite (Australia) have recently released a Zinc additive - Though based on the above feedback on this forum I'm hestitant to mess with additive packages going forward. Perhaps a small boost (1/4 - 1/2 bottle) may the way forward?
I'm going to get a UOA done at the end of this OCI.
I'm using the new Penrite ZDDP additive right now. Just half a bottle. It should take my Castrol GTX 14W40 UltraClean from about 800ppm Zn to about 1200ppm Zn, so I estimate.
I've noticed that my car has a "Tappy" sound that can be quite loud, the neighbours look and the wife comments on how loud the car is. I've tried various oil viscosity - thick and thin, different oil bases - mineral and synthetic, and various oil filters. After much experimenting, I've found that high ZDDP oils are the quietest. So I boost my regular zinc level oils, and it does make a difference.
An oil formulator here, SonofJoe, once commented, that if you had to add anything to oil, then ZDDP was the one to use. It both reduces metal wear on the engine, plus it's an anti-oxidant to preserve the oil, it's also very unlikely to react with anything else in the oil and cause a blending issue.
BTW Nulon make a 10W40 Full Synthetic which is high in moly. You could give that a go too.
Thanks mate, good to hear that the extra Zinc has assisted you! SonofJoe may be right, I once added a whole can of moly to penrite racing 10w40 (a great oil mind you) in my old wrx. Placebo would suggest it would be beneficial, but it actually felt worse than the oil by itself! Half a can was better, which brings me to say that perhaps less is more when it comes to adding your own additives to oils.
Seems we're all looking for that edge, who knows if it will make a noticeable difference in the long run or if we're just being OCD! I guess thats why we're all here!
Originally Posted by DV0993
Penrite (Australia) have recently released a Zinc additive - Though based on the above feedback on this forum I'm hestitant to mess with additive packages going forward. Perhaps a small boost (1/4 - 1/2 bottle) may the way forward?
I'm going to get a UOA done at the end of this OCI.
I'm using the new Penrite ZDDP additive right now. Just half a bottle. It should take my Castrol GTX 14W40 UltraClean from about 800ppm Zn to about 1200ppm Zn, so I estimate.
I've noticed that my car has a "Tappy" sound that can be quite loud, the neighbours look and the wife comments on how loud the car is. I've tried various oil viscosity - thick and thin, different oil bases - mineral and synthetic, and various oil filters. After much experimenting, I've found that high ZDDP oils are the quietest. So I boost my regular zinc level oils, and it does make a difference.
An oil formulator here, SonofJoe, once commented, that if you had to add anything to oil, then ZDDP was the one to use. It both reduces metal wear on the engine, plus it's an anti-oxidant to preserve the oil, it's also very unlikely to react with anything else in the oil and cause a blending issue.
BTW Nulon make a 10W40 Full Synthetic which is high in moly. You could give that a go too.
Thanks mate, good to hear that the extra Zinc has assisted you! SonofJoe may be right, I once added a whole can of moly to penrite racing 10w40 (a great oil mind you) in my old wrx. Placebo would suggest it would be beneficial, but it actually felt worse than the oil by itself! Half a can was better, which brings me to say that perhaps less is more when it comes to adding your own additives to oils.
Seems we're all looking for that edge, who knows if it will make a noticeable difference in the long run or if we're just being OCD! I guess thats why we're all here!
The S2000 does not need a special oil, just a quality one, and it does not need additives.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
The S2000 does not need a special oil, just a quality one, and it does not need additives.
This is accurate. It has a roller valvetrain, it doesn't require lofty amounts of ZDDP to prevent wear. A quality synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-30 is more than sufficient given Honda's requirements.
The S2000 does not need a special oil, just a quality one, and it does not need additives.
This is accurate. It has a roller valvetrain, it doesn't require lofty amounts of ZDDP to prevent wear. A quality synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-30 is more than sufficient given Honda's requirements.
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Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
The S2000 does not need a special oil, just a quality one, and it does not need additives.
This is accurate. It has a roller valvetrain, it doesn't require lofty amounts of ZDDP to prevent wear. A quality synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-30 is more than sufficient given Honda's requirements.
I'll third this.
Your Honda has a modern roller cam engine,it doesn't need a high ZDDP oil like a flat tappet one would. Stick with a good high end synth 10W30 per Honda fsm.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
The S2000 does not need a special oil, just a quality one, and it does not need additives.
This is accurate. It has a roller valvetrain, it doesn't require lofty amounts of ZDDP to prevent wear. A quality synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-30 is more than sufficient given Honda's requirements.
I'll third this.
Your Honda has a modern roller cam engine,it doesn't need a high ZDDP oil like a flat tappet one would. Stick with a good high end synth 10W30 per Honda fsm.
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