Honda/Multi-Vehicle ATF Comparison Chart

Honestly I really don’t know. I think at 15K I used Maxlife. After that Amsoil.
Did you buy your '19 new or used? Ours we got as a lease but we planned to buy it at the end (we did) unless she really hated it. I bought the factory 8/120k HondaCare from Hyannis Honda before the factory 3/36k expired. If you didn't pay for separate plan somewhere then you only have 4k miles left on your powertrain warranty.

I had battery sensor issues right after 3/36. They spent hours diagnosing and then the parts that all was covered. Sucked having issues, glad I had the coverage.

You need to update the miles in your signature :) .
 
Did you buy your '19 new or used? Ours we got as a lease but we planned to buy it at the end (we did) unless she really hated it. I bought the factory 8/120k HondaCare from Hyannis Honda before the factory 3/36k expired. If you didn't pay for separate plan somewhere then you only have 4k miles left on your powertrain warranty.

I had battery sensor issues right after 3/36. They spent hours diagnosing and then the parts that all was covered. Sucked having issues, glad I had the coverage.

You need to update the miles in your signature :) .
We got it new. Smart phones don’t show signatures, lol.
 
I'm still VERY torn on swapping to something other than DW-1. I'd be the one they do fluid analysis on to say it's not OE with tranny issues and deny me on my HondaCare extended coverage. I just got my BlackStone report back. Not confidence inspiring especially since I've been running a Magnefine filter in place of factory one. It has a lot more magnet area than just the drain plug. I don't know what thread this should go in but it is for DW-1 in a '19 Honda Pilot EX-L 6 speed tranny, Honda factory trans cooler added at 21k. This fluid has had 5 drain and fills during last 29000 miles. I had a bunch of small chunks come out on last D&F. I'm really not sure what to do except I'll probably have a D&F when it goes in for windshield. At least it will be noted in Honda system as 30k change. They did it at 20k also.
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That iron level is bad news. You are wearing the transmission out quickly. I would switch that fluid and do a 5x fluid change to something like the Maxlife or the Amsoil or even the expensive Redline trans fluid. You are not protecting that transmission and it's wearing itself to death internally. That iron content level being that high shows it. I'm going to attach a report from my 17 Ridgeline RTL next in a separate post. Also, I'm going to attach a link to the Ridgeline group where I have participated for years to a thread with lots of others oil analysis's and discussion. Better quality fluid is a must in this transmission. The DW-1 is the minimum quality fluid that you can use but there are better alternatives for heat rejection and pressures to hold the gears from wearing etc. inside it.
 
That iron level is bad news. You are wearing the transmission out quickly. I would switch that fluid and do a 5x fluid change to something like the Maxlife or the Amsoil or even the expensive Redline trans fluid. You are not protecting that transmission and it's wearing itself to death internally. That iron content level being that high shows it. I'm going to attach a report from my 17 Ridgeline RTL next in a separate post. Also, I'm going to attach a link to the Ridgeline group where I have participated for years to a thread with lots of others oil analysis's and discussion. Better quality fluid is a must in this transmission. The DW-1 is the minimum quality fluid that you can use but there are better alternatives for heat rejection and pressures to hold the gears from wearing etc. inside it.
And sadly that is with an added Magnefine filter in place of factory external and 5 D&F's in 29k miles. I would not consider what we do with it abusive in any way. Even the minimal 100 mile towing trips are at 2000lbs or less including the weight of trailer.
 
If you were to switch it to the Valvoline Max Life Honda fluid or the Amsoil fluid, you'd still have to do at least 4 dnf's to get that "junk" out of the system and enough good fluid in there to get better lubrication and to extend the life of the trans. It might already be too far past saving with the miles already on it. I started my quest at 30k. I'm at 65k and it's just now starting to come around with the lower iron content with reduced wear due to better fluid inside. (I did it one gallon at a time over many many miles to prove the point of lower wear).
 
I use or have used LubeGard Black or silver bottle with Maxlife, Castrol Multi Import, or Valvoline Import ATF in the following: 06 Lexus RX330, 06 Honda CRV, 2009 Mazda CX-9, 2010 Mazda CX-7. The Lexus is nearing 300K miles. The CX-9 and CRV just turned 200K. I do a dump and fill every 30,000 miles. They all shift like they're brand new. Lubegard publishes a chart that tells you what type of automatic transmission fluid and what type of their additive to add to your transmission for best performance. I've been doing so for the past 15 years I've never had a transmission failure.
 
2008 CRV 2.4L, 4 speed with 225k on it. It has had mostly dealer maintained D&F's so Z-1 for many years until they swapped to DW-1. I did one DW-1 D&F 2 years ago, 1 VML D&F last year.

Question for @High Performance Lubricants. If I a do a D&F with HPL should it be the green or the blue? I presume blue since manual was originally calling for Z-1 except for the 3-4qts of VML it should be all DW-1 at this point in it.. Do I need to do a full 3x D&F to swap most of it over? Any issue with just doing 1 D&F on it from compatability? The vehicle currently see's less than 5k per year. Everything is working well on it.
 
Dave sent a separate message to me for the 225k '08 CRV and said either Green or Blue would work but he recommended the Blue for the higher viscosity. I ordered up a 6 pack and will do a D&F as soon as I can. Daughter goes back tomorrow but will be home on some weekends.

The Pilot - Was at dealer for new windshield and camera calibration. I met with service manager, advisor and mechanic prior to going showing them what I had and how many D&F's. I had them do a 1x tranny D&F with DW-1 and a rear diff D&F with dual pump. They put the fluid through a paint strainer coming out and got a couple more small sandy gritty chunks but not like I did. They also gave me a sample so I can send in if I want. They don't like it either but with no CEL, no current drivability concerns, no shudder, not much to do but change fluid. It's in Honda system showing dealer D&F's at just over 20k and now at 52k which is the "severe service" of 1x change at 30k intervals. I'll have them do any future changes on it.

I have 3 months and 7500 miles left on factory power train warranty. I have 3.25 years and 68k miles with factory HondaCare. I will drive it everyday instead of my Accord so it gets 50 miles round trip mostly highway. VCM is re-enabled so it works the TC as factory engineers designed. Factory external filter is back in and since I'm not planning on towing might bypass external cooler. It will either have issues while under warranty and get a new TC or tranny and then I might keep it (with better fluid, better cooler, VCM disabled). If not it will get sold or traded in when extended HondaCare warranty is almost done. Totally against my normal of trying to prolong life but I don't feel as it is, it will last 10-15 years / 200k+ like my other cars.
 
For my Ridgeline I'm planning my next D & F. I've completed three of them in the past 1,800 miles using Aisin and Idemitsu DW-1 fluid. I plan to use Eneos Model H next, which I bought for $42 for a case of 12 quarts, and I have asked Eneos HQ to furnish the chemical composition so I can have it added to the OP's chart.
 
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