Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF

[Lyondellic]

Castrol import multi-vehicle ATF meets the JASO-1A performance standard, which is used by Japanese automakers to certify compatibility. It is listed as a synthetic blend, but look at the Viscosity Index of 200. Honda Z1 service is listed first on the data sheet, which I take to mean that it was tested fairly extensively on Honda AT's. This looks to be good stuff, but I figured that I would see what the ATF Guru's here at BITOG think?

CASTROL IMPORT MULTIVEHICLE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID IS FOR USE IN MOST HONDA, TOYOTA, NISSAN AND OTHER IMPORTED VEHICLES.

Viscosity@ 40°C, cSt ASTM D-445 36.6
Viscosity@ 100°C, cSt ASTM D-445 8.0
Viscosity Index ASTM D-2270 200
Brookfield Viscosity @ -40 C, max, cP ASTM D-2983 13,000
Pour Point, °F (°C) ASTM D-97 -54 (-48)
Flash Point, COC, min °F (°C) ASTM D-92 406 (208)

 

[unDummy]

Great fluid. I install it frequently enough and recommend it.

 

[odessit]

On my 97 Nissan Altima, I switched from unknown fluid (most likely Dex3) to Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF. Runs without major issues except when it is cold, it does not want to shift from 3rd to overdrive. I have to rev the engine slightly. Once tranny warms up - all is Ok. This issue did not exist before.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Great fluid, use it with confidence. I presently have that on my maxima and it is holding up pretty good.

I am quite impressed with this new ATF targetting import vehicles.

 

[cmhj]

Anyone ever used this to replace SP III?

 

[Dave Sherman]

I've been using it in our Subaru, and it works well. Now that I see it replaces Honda ATF-Z1, I'm tempted to try it in my CR-V when it's time to replace it.

 

[Jon]

Comparing the cold-weather specs the MaxLife appears a shade better, with the Pennzoil better yet. I've had good luck with the MaxLife in an 'O2 Accord V6 and an '03 Kia Sedona. The Sedona was a *big* improvement over the OEM fluid. Very noticeable. The Honda was also an improvement, and I don't have any cold-weather problems down to -15F, unless you count the first 2 or 3 gear *changes* being a bit lazy (but no over-run) - after that (by the time I've got 1/4 mile or less) shifts are fine.

 

[cmhj]

Interesting Jon,

I use a lot of Amsoil but with the newer Kia/Hundai/Mutsubishi units I've been sticking to the SP III unless I do a total flush.

I've read some reports where the users have used the Castrol Import fluid in the above mentioned doing only a drain and fill. In the few cases I'm aware of there were no issues mentioned but the vehicles were also not high mileage/hard driven.

In your Sedona, did you do a flush or just a drain and fill with the MaxLife? How many miles? Driven hard before the service?

Thanks.

BTW I see you're from Madison. I spent many weekends there during bucky football season. I used to live up in the Rapids area and would travel to Madison a lot in the 70s & 80s. Still get there once in a while.

 

[The Critic]

FWIW, my neighbor's 03 Sedona developed a shudder problem after the second flush with Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle. I think he had a flushed once at 40k and again at 60k ???.

Anyway, he took the vehicle to the dealer and openly admitted that he had it flushed with a non-OEM fluid. The dealer claimed that the fluid damaged the torque converter, and the powertrain warranty didn't cover it. I asked Pennzoil, they claimed that the fluid could not have any effect on this.

Long story short, he traded the car in for a Santa Fe. In other words, be careful what you use in these transmissions. I've also heard of a few other cases of universal fluids causing problems. I have a feeling that these units are far less forgiving than most other units when it comes to fluid.

 

[cmhj]

Hi critic

I generally agree there seems to be some incompatability with these fluids despite what the fluid blenders/manufactures tell us. This is why I've only used the SPIII fluid in the Mitshubishi transaxles that call for SPIII unless I'm doing a full flush. Even when doing a full flush with these units I've only used an alternative fluid twice, to date no issues that I'm aware of.

Companies that have multiple fluids appear to be the way to go, in most cases, if not doing a total flush versus those fluids that tend to blanket a very wide spectrum of coverage.

My background is mostly with GM & Ford products where up until a few years ago I could use almost anything that was suggested for their units. But these Mitsubishi based transaxles seem to be rather touchy with their fluids and more so on a unit with high miles &/or severe service that was lacking routine maintenance.

 

[Jon]

The unit had 15K on it when we purchased it from a private party.
I had the dealer do an ATF *flush* and a coolant *flush*, and a few other things.

At 30K I started by undoing the drainplug (the worst location for a drain plug EVER) which is 3.5 quarts or so. I put in maxlife at that time. I did 2-3 quarts through the dipstick, 3 times, for a total of 12+ quarts. I really like the way it shifts now. It wasn't bad before, but a bit of overrun and a little sloppy. Now it's got another 10K on it and I'm pretty happy still. I plan on doing 2-3 quarts every O/C or every other O/C through the dipstick starting with the next O/C.

I don't know about how it was driven before I got it, probably a bit hard. Now it's driven not hard but almost all short trips.

 

[unDummy]

Kia/hyundai/mitsu transmission are weak. Trust me, they have issues and it isn't fluid related. Any of the uni-multi ATFs will work well. Even if using OE SPIII, the maintenance intervals should be very frequent as failures when stressed are very common.

Odessit, Nissans won't upshift until ATF reaches normal operating temp. Your year skips the TC lockup when. So, you DO get overdrive when it is cold. You do NOT get TC lockup which feels like a final OD shift. Also, during downhill no gas runs, it is possible to overcool the tranny and loose the lockup while the tranny warms up again. This is common during winter months coming down the mountains.

 

[Jon]

What are the early signs of failure on Kia transmissions? When I originally researched these, the Kia Sedona was ranked third to Honda and Toyota in terms of reliability - well ahead of any of the domestics, and only Honda, Toyota, and Nissan have similar-sized minivans that aren't domestic. So far, with just under 40K, we've been extremely happy with it. We are probably going to trade it in on a new Hyundai Entourage, though.

 

[pemdas]

Originally Posted By: Jon
The unit had 15K on it when we purchased it from a private party.
I had the dealer do an ATF *flush* and a coolant *flush*, and a few other things.

At 30K I started by undoing the drainplug (the worst location for a drain plug EVER) which is 3.5 quarts or so. I put in maxlife at that time. I did 2-3 quarts through the dipstick, 3 times, for a total of 12+ quarts. I really like the way it shifts now. It wasn't bad before, but a bit of overrun and a little sloppy. Now it's got another 10K on it and I'm pretty happy still. I plan on doing 2-3 quarts every O/C or every other O/C through the dipstick starting with the next O/C.

I don't know about how it was driven before I got it, probably a bit hard. Now it's driven not hard but almost all short trips.


Hi Jon, If you switched from SPIII to a different fluid you must get as much of the fluid out as possible. Simply draining the fluid from the pan will not get half of it out since there is a large amount in the torque converter. You must drain the pan, fill with the same amount that came out, then disconnect the transmission oil lines and have a helper start the engine briefly to evacuate the fluid out 2 quarts at a time until the new fluid finally comes through. Only then will you have removed most of the fluid. I think this is the mistake many make when switching to another type of fluid and probably what causes damage due to fluid incompatibility between the two.
I called Castrol regarding their Import Multi-Vehicle ATF and that was their recommendation, "DO NOT MIX". They also verified that their fluid is Hyundai approved. I also verified that the warranty would not be voided since I read a TSB at hmaservice.com as compatIble Hyundai approved fluids being acceptable.

I am still on SPIII for now but will be switching to Castrol or another approved fluid once the time comes.

 

[lewdwig]

I drained the SPIII in my wife's Mitsubishi Eneadvor (at 103k miles, factory fill). Drained out 5 quarts, replaced with Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle (capacity is 9.6L IIRC). I had the battery negative cable disconnected during this time. I reconnected the cable and the transaxle is doing just fine so far. I plan on doing another drain and fill this summer.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: lewdwig
I drained the SPIII in my wife's Mitsubishi Eneadvor (at 103k miles, factory fill). Drained out 5 quarts, replaced with Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle (capacity is 9.6L IIRC). I had the battery negative cable disconnected during this time. I reconnected the cable and the transaxle is doing just fine so far. I plan on doing another drain and fill this summer.

Do another service now. Hyundai/Kia require a FULL FLUSH when the vehicle is replaced as part of normal maintenance. This is very different than most manufacturers.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I have some in my 130k CRV and after many different fluids, the trans seems pretty happy with it. Thinking about doing a refresh to get the percentage up.

 

[youdontwannaknow]

so how's the crv liking it so far ? did you refill with more Castrol since then ?

 

[lewdwig]

Did another drain and fill on the Mitsu Endeavor, I'm doing one more and I calculate I'll have about one quart left of the old SP-III in the transaxle.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I have 3 more quarts here for the planed yearly "spring" change that it's overdue for. The mix that's in there is so fresh and it's working so well, I am not anxious to do the change.