Haha, not sure that ol’ Ben came up with “penny wise, pound foolish” but we might as well, he came up with all sorts of wild stuff!Was it Ben Franklin that said, "Penny wise. Dollar foolish?"



Haha, not sure that ol’ Ben came up with “penny wise, pound foolish” but we might as well, he came up with all sorts of wild stuff!Was it Ben Franklin that said, "Penny wise. Dollar foolish?"
Accuracy and relevance of that study has been heavily debated.Also, wear is significantly increased after an oil change. As a BITOGer I figure you would understand this.
I’d seen it discussed enough times around here in agreement that I figured it was more or less understood knowledge at this point. I’d be interested to read anything to the contrary. I’m certainly willing to change if the data shows it.Accuracy and relevance of that study has been heavily debated.
I hope you’re not blaming the Amsoil here, as people like this are the reason why “*Never exceed the manufacturer’s recommended oil change mileage” disclaimers have to exist.Front Cylinder Head was removed due to a broken spark plug on #4. The owner tried to remove the broken plug, but broke the ez-out. Prior to this incident, the front bank had an audible knock/tick.
After disassembly, two scored cam lobes were found on #5. All of the rollers on the rocker were in perfect shape, so maybe we caught it just in time?
Service intervals were “annually” with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-20 and Amsoil filter. Since this was a 2009 Pilot with 180K, I would estimate the annual interval to be around 15K. Driving conditions were a mix of city and highway.
Note: this is a J35Z4 with VCM.
That’s the oil capacity for my 2016 Civic and I’m not scared to go 10,000 mile intervalsHonda recommends a 7500 Mile OCI for this Vehicle, what jumps out at me is according to Amsoil this engine only holds 4.5 quarts of oil!
That amount of oil tells me to not go past a 5000-mile OCI.
You are probably using good Oil. LOLThat’s the oil capacity for my 2016 Civic and I’m not scared to go 10,000 mile intervals![]()
I’ve seen more engines damaged from doing extended oil services. 1 leaks. A UOA does not show you what’s left in the oil for seal conditioners. Amsoil oil filters are a waste. Hop on YouTube. Plenty cut open, they’re made by champion labs. Amsoil and RP are the exact same one. I have one vehicle that is DI, you can’t control fuel dilution. Long OCI will destroy the internals, holds 5.7qts. So 37 for M1 ESP 0/30. Purolator Boss filter 10 bucks. Check out the car care nut and sees what happens when you follow the 10k oil change as Toyota recommends. You create an oil burner before it even gets to 100k. Now in the US they want you to run 0/8. I don’t own a Toyota. But makes sense and 10/30 is recommended in AUS. I would try HPL , it’s not available locally. I only use RL gear and transmission fluids. Never have had a failure. I change it every 15k. Honda/Acura does not have the best track record. An AWD trans is not cheap at 5k not including labor.My oil alone is $50+ for one change. That doesn’t include my Amsoil filter or my new drain plug washer. Changing it every 5k would mean I’m changing it and a filter once a quarter which is a waste of my time, money, and oil with life left in it. I ride often enough that I’d rather be in the wind than I would be under my bike.
SuperTech Motorcycle 20w-50 is $8.72/qt.
A FRAM PH6065B filter is $11.84.
Bike takes 4qts, so the math comes out to be:
$8.72 x 4 = $34.88 for the oil alone. Now add the filter.
$34.88 + $11.84 = $46.72 per 5k mile oil change for my bike.
My HPL V-Twin oil is $48 for 4 quarts after tax and shipping.
My Amsoil EaOM134 filter is $10.40.
Total cost: $48 + $10.40 = $58.40
If I run this oil to 20k miles as it has proven to be capable of, I will use 2 oil filters, bringing the total cost of my 20k oil change to $68.80. I’ll even do you one better and add the analysis kit costs of $32.75 each.
$32.75 x 2 = $65.50 + $58.40 = $123.90
5k miles cheapo cost: $46.72
5k miles HPL & Amsoil Filters cost: $30.97
I’ll do you one better, this oil will likely be able to do 30k (though analysis needs to bear this out, I’ll admit) and will use 3 filters to the tune of $31.20 worth of filters for a total 30k mile cost of $79.20. Your cheapo change cost for the same mileage is $276.72 and you’ve put 6 gallons of waste oil into the recycling stream versus my 1.
3 analyses plus the oil and filters: $98.25 + $79.20 = $177.45
5k miles HPL & Amsoil Cost for 30k interval: $29.57
I don’t love spending time under my bike, I love spending time ON it. Less time spent doing maintenance while also providing higher level protection for my bike is a win win for me.
THAT is why I do extended drain intervals.
Also, wear is significantly increased after an oil change. As a BITOGer I figure you would understand this.
Personally, none of my engines when scoped or having their valve covers or timing systems open have shown any symptoms of damage, but I’m a sample of 1 soI’ve seen more engines damaged from doing extended oil services. 1 leaks. A UOA does not show you what’s left in the oil for seal conditioners. Amsoil oil filters are a waste. Hop on YouTube. Plenty cut open, they’re made by champion labs. Amsoil and RP are the exact same one. I have one vehicle that is DI, you can’t control fuel dilution. Long OCI will destroy the internals, holds 5.7qts. So 37 for M1 ESP 0/30. Purolator Boss filter 10 bucks. Check out the car care nut and sees what happens when you follow the 10k oil change as Toyota recommends. You create an oil burner before it even gets to 100k. Now in the US they want you to run 0/8. I don’t own a Toyota. But makes sense and 10/30 is recommended in AUS. I would try HPL , it’s not available locally. I only use RL gear and transmission fluids. Never have had a failure. I change it every 15k. Honda/Acura does not have the best track record. An AWD trans is not cheap at 5k not including labor.
You continue to run properly extended OCI together with lack of maintenanceI’ve seen more engines damaged from doing extended oil services. 1 leaks. A UOA does not show you what’s left in the oil for seal conditioners. Amsoil oil filters are a waste. Hop on YouTube. Plenty cut open, they’re made by champion labs. Amsoil and RP are the exact same one. I have one vehicle that is DI, you can’t control fuel dilution. Long OCI will destroy the internals, holds 5.7qts. So 37 for M1 ESP 0/30. Purolator Boss filter 10 bucks. Check out the car care nut and sees what happens when you follow the 10k oil change as Toyota recommends. You create an oil burner before it even gets to 100k. Now in the US they want you to run 0/8. I don’t own a Toyota. But makes sense and 10/30 is recommended in AUS. I would try HPL , it’s not available locally. I only use RL gear and transmission fluids. Never have had a failure. I change it every 15k. Honda/Acura does not have the best track record. An AWD trans is not cheap at 5k not including labor.
Why would I want to do that? 5-6% fuel dilution I’ll keep my same plan, vehicle inside has zero varnish, burns no oil, inside looks brand new at 158k. Whats the point of long OCI when oil and filter is 40 bucks. It sees a lot of idle time in the winter. Less in the summer, but sees some especially traveling with dogs. Extended drains is just dumb imho. When I did OTR trucking. They went 30k. Every 10k it would use a gallon after the oil change.You continue to run properly extended OCI together with lack of maintenance
I think your point is not sticking via repetition because experience says otherwise
Yes some DI engines it makes zero sense to blindly go by miles, but many engines easily go 15K+ on good oil. You change your gear oils at 15K? Complete waste of time and resources
Again, nobody is telling you what to do with your own equipment, but your own equipment is not universally representative. You seem to be making broad generalized recommendations based on concerns about equipment that experiences heavy fuel dilution, but that is not every piece of equipment.Why would I want to do that? 5-6% fuel dilution I’ll keep my same plan, vehicle inside has zero varnish, burns no oil, inside looks brand new at 158k. Whats the point of long OCI when oil and filter is 40 bucks. It sees a lot of idle time in the winter. Less in the summer, but sees some especially traveling with dogs. Extended drains is just dumb imho. When I did OTR trucking. They went 30k. Every 10k it would use a gallon after the oil change.
I thought it was a Penny saved was a Penny Earned, then again, I did see that in a recent Commercial. Then again it could have been a Penny Earned is a Penny Saved, that sounds better.Haha, not sure that ol’ Ben came up with “penny wise, pound foolish” but we might as well, he came up with all sorts of wild stuff!![]()
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Well statedAgain, nobody is telling you what to do with your own equipment, but your own equipment is not universally representative. You seem to be making broad generalized recommendations based on concerns about equipment that experiences heavy fuel dilution, but that is not every piece of equipment.
There has been plenty of success with properly implemented extended drain intervals, which reduce equipment downtime and subsequently, increase productivity.
And, as I've explained in other threads, oil doesn't age in miles. Distance is a poor proxy for lubricant degradation, it was implemented because it's simple, but iOLM's were developed because it sucks.
Feel feee to watch YouTube channels “I do cars” “the car care nut”. You’ll see plenty of engine tear downs with the destruction of high mileage drain cycles. Especially with the piston rings. Unless you only drive the highway like a semi truck,Again, nobody is telling you what to do with your own equipment, but your own equipment is not universally representative. You seem to be making broad generalized recommendations based on concerns about equipment that experiences heavy fuel dilution, but that is not every piece of equipment.
There has been plenty of success with properly implemented extended drain intervals, which reduce equipment downtime and subsequently, increase productivity.
And, as I've explained in other threads, oil doesn't age in miles. Distance is a poor proxy for lubricant degradation, it was implemented because it's simple, but iOLM's were developed because it sucks.
You missed the point. Again.Feel feee to watch YouTube channels “I do cars” “the car care nut”. You’ll see plenty of engine tear downs with the destruction of high mileage drain cycles. Especially with the piston rings. Unless you only drive the highway like a semi truck,
Are you capable of having a rational and informed conversation, or is this all just "appeal to the perceived authority of youtube" fantasy? You've replied to none of the points I've made, which were an attempt to get you to think critically and acknowledge the inherent nuance of the subject. I'm fine if this is all you've got, but you seem to want to present as providing valuable insight on this topic, but this surface-level fear porn isn't that.Feel feee to watch YouTube channels “I do cars” “the car care nut”. You’ll see plenty of engine tear downs with the destruction of high mileage drain cycles. Especially with the piston rings. Unless you only drive the highway like a semi truck,
Your points are taken. I don’t see a point in long extended OCI. By the time you pay for all the UOA, the time to get the sample,take it to the post office, the cost of mailing it, the cost to do the oil change is less. Time to do an oil change, 30 min. Now no worries about all the wasted time for a UOA and expenseAre you capable of having a rational and informed conversation, or is this all just "appeal to the perceived authority of youtube" fantasy? You've replied to none of the points I've made, which were an attempt to get you to think critically and acknowledge the inherent nuance of the subject. I'm fine if this is all you've got, but you seem to want to present as providing valuable insight on this topic, but this surface-level fear porn isn't that.
This is like someone watching the Chornobyl mini series and then speaking authoritatively on the topic of nuclear power. Dunning-Kruger can be a hell of a trip.
Yes, that's apparent, but you not seeing the point doesn't mean that one doesn't exist. As you already acknowledged, OTR trucks are one application that can benefit from them, so can other applications where downtime is undesirable, like border patrol vehicles, taxis, limos...etc.Your points are taken. I don’t see a point in long extended OCI.
Completely depends on the application. The 0W-40 for my SRT is $15/L from the dealer and it holds 7L. Even if I'm running M1 FS 0W-40, that's $76+ tax on sale, so $85.88 for the oil, plus $15 for a filter, so I'm $103-$135 depending on oil and filter choice, and then there's my time, which is worth more than that.By the time you pay for all the UOA, the time to get the sample,take it to the post office, the cost of mailing it, the cost to do the oil change is less.
I grab the sample mid-stream while I change the oil, so there's effectively no time. We have UPS pick-up at the office, so again, not any time, and the shipping is paid for as part of the purchase of the kit, so no additional cost. I take about an hour to do my oil change, taking my time. Doing that when it's convenient for me (and the weather isn't bad) has value, as does my time, as I noted, and my time is worth considerably more than I think the type of oil change you are alluding to.Time to do an oil change, 30 min. Now no worries about all the wasted time for a UOA and expense