Lol, that's what I'm doing as well. Replaced my windows a couple of years ago, replaced all three bedroom's flooring. Redoing a bathroom floor now, then the down stairs flooring.
A bit of work, but I don't have a mortgage payment.
Home HVAC Advice Needed
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
A bit of work, but I don't have a mortgage payment.
Unfortunately I’m not much of a home repair guy, so I’m looking at around 125K to do all of the above items.
Different strokes. If it ain't broke, don't fix or remodel it.
Good news is that everything still works, but all of the items are either worn out or dated.
Luckily the HVAC still works perfect at the moment. The low charge was discovered during the 2020 and 2022 maintenance visits; service and top-off was $400 each time. My wife wants me to run the system until it quits, but I prefer to replace it at my convenience.
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Understand. Been there. See if the tech can ID the part that is leaking and fix or replace that part, only. I replaced a 40 year old furnace and noticed that it was in perfect condition. Tech said furnaces last much longer in warm climates like mine, or, yours.
I’m of the same mindset. What size AC unit do you have? Did you top off with R22 or the replacement ‘bluon’? If only $200, guessing it’s not that bad. It’s basically what I did until the compressor was shot.
I’m getting a 2nd unit replaced next week (I have 3). It’s only 2.5t but only ~20% less cost. Funny how that works out. Was really hoping the new run cap would fix it…
Not sure what the supply situation is in your neck of NorCal but I hear a consistent theme from installers talking about the past where you just grabbed one from the dealer. My 5 ton had to be trucked in from out of state.
Critic,
I would look into getting your duct work Aerosealed. I had I done back in 2020 on my 2600 sq foot house and the air flow difference is huge. Three is only a 1-2 degrees temp difference between the main floor and upper floor. Heating and AC Bills probably save me 20-25 pct every month. Let's face it utility costs are only going to go up.
Here are two links. The guy that was on Mike Holmes did the job on my house.
Your forced air ducts probably leak 30-40 pct inside the walls and other non living areas.
You could probably have your attic insulation topped up as well if it's feasible. R19 is very poor.
I would look into getting your duct work Aerosealed. I had I done back in 2020 on my 2600 sq foot house and the air flow difference is huge. Three is only a 1-2 degrees temp difference between the main floor and upper floor. Heating and AC Bills probably save me 20-25 pct every month. Let's face it utility costs are only going to go up.
Here are two links. The guy that was on Mike Holmes did the job on my house.
Your forced air ducts probably leak 30-40 pct inside the walls and other non living areas.
You could probably have your attic insulation topped up as well if it's feasible. R19 is very poor.
That makes a huge difference. I sealed the ducts in my basement with foil tape. Duct mastic up in Canada was hard to get without being a contractor. I picked up a tub and sealed the ductwork in the bedroom above my garage.
I can't believe how poor the building code is in a lot of places.
California mostly dry climate with mild winters?
Single stage AC and 80% gas furnace is exactly correct.
I have the same configuration in a builder grade Lennox and its fine for San Antonio.
You don't need super high SEER, I would just make sure the unit you buy is sized correctly for the house.
Single stage AC and 80% gas furnace is exactly correct.
I have the same configuration in a builder grade Lennox and its fine for San Antonio.
You don't need super high SEER, I would just make sure the unit you buy is sized correctly for the house.
And the trades normally take shortcuts and don't care about the job they do. I'm in process of renovating my garage. I see the amount of shortcuts taken and lack of quality.
The Trane thermostat that came with my Trane heat pump can display and awful lot of info about the system, past usage, whether it was heat, booster heat or cooling.
Does the Ecobee provide that same info when connected to a Trane heat pump?
He has some valid points, but it ultimately depends on customer needs and budget. Mine is 25 years old and to me, is the equivalent of a 200K mile old car. I need reliability with minimal hassle, so I am electing to replace.
That is sorta what one contractor suggested - an air scoop to divert more air flow to the 2nd story plus a dampener door for the winter months. I'm trying to avoid a true "zone setup" since the ductwork is already a bit undersized for the house.
HVAC performance to the second floor could definitely be improved, but it is not dire enough to justify spending $20K for a second system. If I can make the existing setup a bit better for a minor additional cost, that would make more financial sense.
Temperature distribution throughout the house is currently an issue. The situation isn't dire, but if it can be improved for a small amount of money, then I will give it some serious consideration. Replacing windows is probably a $50K+ affair that I'm hoping to avoid, at least for now. For some of the systems, a 10-yr extended labor warranty is only $700 and I am hoping to be out of this house before that expires.
Original windows, hoping to avoid replacement for now. This is a very large expense. Current system does not have damper doors.
4-ton A/C unit. Supposedly real R22 was used. I paid $400 for each top-off.
All 3 quotes have included "HERS testing" and re-sealing ducts as-needed. Is this the same thing?
I do plan to improve the attic insulation at some point.
I feel your pain sir, although mine is way less costly.
Our only a/c, which is a window unit mounted through a DIY wall sleeve in our master pooped out the other night. It runs and cools well for a few minutes, until the point you hear the compressor change pitch and tone until it trips the 15a breaker for that circuit. I believe it's a 12000btu. It's 15+ yrs old.
Our only a/c, which is a window unit mounted through a DIY wall sleeve in our master pooped out the other night. It runs and cools well for a few minutes, until the point you hear the compressor change pitch and tone until it trips the 15a breaker for that circuit. I believe it's a 12000btu. It's 15+ yrs old.
Just to add some context to the conversation:
Gas bill from the coldest month of last winter:
Base electricity rates:
Gas bill from the coldest month of last winter:
Base electricity rates:
I know a little about HVAC.
Here's what I would do (and have done in your situation)-
Install a single, "mini-split" multi-port heat pump condensing unit and two indoor ducted, multi-position air handling units inside. One for downstairs, one for upstairs. The most idiotic thing to come about in the last 25 years is the use of zone damper systems in residential construction where a single system serves multiple floors. They simply do not work. To equate that to your line of work, Mr. Critic - that is the same as putting 4 different wheels and tires on a single vehicle because the owner wants to drive over turf/pasture (wide turf tractor wheel/tire), go rock crawling (18" x 12" wide wheel with a 35" x 12.50 x 18 Patagonia tire; run highway speeds daily (20" x 9" wheel with Michelin LTX M/S tire) and an 18" steelie with a snow tire because the owner goes to the mountains on the weekends in January/February.
What kind of sense does that make? About the same as a single unit serving two-three floors.....
My suggestion - sounds like you need a 4-ton multi-port condensing unit and two indoor units, probably a 3 and a 2-ton. Brand? Daikin.
Your climate will support a heat pump very well. I suspect your power bill will reduce enough to pay the PREMIUM this system will cost over the same old chit that the contractors are suggesting to replace the existing.
Feel free to PM me if needed.
Edited.....
HOLY CRAP at those electric rates..... BTW, you won't need gas with my suggestion...
Also, I wrote a song about all this-
Here's what I would do (and have done in your situation)-
Install a single, "mini-split" multi-port heat pump condensing unit and two indoor ducted, multi-position air handling units inside. One for downstairs, one for upstairs. The most idiotic thing to come about in the last 25 years is the use of zone damper systems in residential construction where a single system serves multiple floors. They simply do not work. To equate that to your line of work, Mr. Critic - that is the same as putting 4 different wheels and tires on a single vehicle because the owner wants to drive over turf/pasture (wide turf tractor wheel/tire), go rock crawling (18" x 12" wide wheel with a 35" x 12.50 x 18 Patagonia tire; run highway speeds daily (20" x 9" wheel with Michelin LTX M/S tire) and an 18" steelie with a snow tire because the owner goes to the mountains on the weekends in January/February.
What kind of sense does that make? About the same as a single unit serving two-three floors.....
My suggestion - sounds like you need a 4-ton multi-port condensing unit and two indoor units, probably a 3 and a 2-ton. Brand? Daikin.
Your climate will support a heat pump very well. I suspect your power bill will reduce enough to pay the PREMIUM this system will cost over the same old chit that the contractors are suggesting to replace the existing.
Feel free to PM me if needed.
Edited.....
HOLY CRAP at those electric rates..... BTW, you won't need gas with my suggestion...
Also, I wrote a song about all this-
HVAC "Advice"
I generally stay out of the home HVAC threads because, well, most people want to know what the cheapest solution is. I saw in the latest thread someone asking about mini-splits. There's several versions/product lines of "mini-splits". First off, I have been a fan of the newer technology of...
bobistheoilguy.com
My house is in the southern part of Delaware and not that much different than the OP with respect to house size and climate.
My first floor is 6 ton heat pump and second level is a 4 ton.
You are talking about a 4 ton for your entire house?
Why the big discrepancy?
My first floor is 6 ton heat pump and second level is a 4 ton.
You are talking about a 4 ton for your entire house?
Why the big discrepancy?
They will only seal what is exposed therefore they cannot get behind the walls and finished areas that would need drywall removed. The Aeroseal leaves everything intact.
Either your figures are wrong, or your house was built without insulation or something crazy. 10 tons for a 2,300 sq ft house is completely insane. I'm in a 2,400 square foot house in MD and we have 3.5 tons AC, totally adequate. 80,000 BTU (~6.5 "tons") furnace which runs 95% of the time in the low stage of 52,000 BTU.
jeff
