Home Energy Audit

[Cory]

Many here on BITOG look for ways to save money with their vehicles or to increase MPG.

Yesterday, I had a Home Energy Audit performed on my house so that I may help reduce the costs associated in heating and cooling my home. (Thank you Stimulus Money!) Much of my research online alluded that many home energy audits are inexpensive or even free. This may be the case in some areas of the country but my utility company does not offer any incentives or rebates for such a procedure. My utility company was, however, able to supply me with a list of those companies that met a prequalified standard with a couple of comments from satisfied customers.

After 5 hours of tagging along with this guy and asking questions, I'm certain that I can recoup the cost in a rather short period of time. Granted, there will be further expenses to meet the repairs as suggested, but I still feel as though the benefits will be reaped in a couple years time. The thermal camera really puts things into perspective and gives you a visual aid in seeing exactly what one is trying to explain to you.

I highly suggest individuals to seek their local utilities and find out more information.

My biggest piece of advice taken from this experience is that fiberglass is not sealant (more like an air filter). Stuffing some fiberglass between some joists is not an adequate means of insulating your home. You need to seal and insulate. Air drafts will rob your home of any efficiencies.

There is so much more but I'll leave my post as is for now.

 

[MGregoir]

Seal your house for as many drafts as possible, and insulating means fibreglass filler with plastic vapour barrier.

Insulating and programmable thermostats are the only energy saving changes that will pay for themselves in a reasonable timeframe (under five years) unless you have a horribly ineffecient heating/cooling system. These are items that only pay off to replace when the old equipment is no longer serviceable.

We did all the math on this in our house once.

 

[Cory]

Originally Posted By: MGregoir
Seal your house for as many drafts as possible, and insulating means fibreglass filler with plastic vapour barrier.

This may have been the norm at one time but not any longer. Most of my research and with the advice of my Auditor, say to use spray foam or the use of polystytrene boards either caulked or foamed.

(Example: Rim Joists)
Lining rim joists with fiberglass may be simple but is inadequate. Even if it's backed, try stapling it so that there are no leaks? Pretty impossible.

 

[Oldmoparguy1]

The next best insulation after foamed in place is blown in cellulose. It's messy, and it's easy to get a poor job. I've done 2 houses with it and done right, it is great.

 

[oilyriser]

What did it cost to get the guy with the camera? Did he do a blower door test?

 

[1sttruck]

Cellulose seems to break down in time, in some climates quickly. The foams seem to have highest R values but some are fire hazards. Compresseing fiberglass helps to minimize air movement and ups the R value, but can be a health hazard during inatallation. If you have neough fire blocks and tight construction on walls then compressing fiberglass can work well, otherwise you end up with your house acting like a radiator, venting the warm air from the house in a series of chimneys.

Look at r values of different walls and ceilings with different types of insulation and then compare them with even expensive windows.

 

[Cory]

Originally Posted By: oilyriser
What did it cost to get the guy with the camera? Did he do a blower door test?

Yes, he did the blower door test and the price is based on the square footage of your house. Cost me $400 for my 2500 square foot house.

 

[Cory]

Originally Posted By: Oldmoparguy1
The next best insulation after foamed in place is blown in cellulose. It's messy, and it's easy to get a poor job. I've done 2 houses with it and done right, it is great.

According to my auditor, the loose fill cellulose is better than the loose fill fiberglass for which I have. Yes, it gives you that warm and fuzzy feeling being a fluffy white (his words) but again, it has the characteristics of fiberglass. He suggested I put 4-6" of additional cellulose over the top in my attic.

 

[Cory]

Originally Posted By: 1sttruck
Compresseing fiberglass helps to minimize air movement and ups the R value...

This is exactly the opposite of my findings. Fiberglass is not supposed to be compressed. It reduces its insulative qualities and R value.

 

[oilyriser]

compressed R value per inch might be higher but total R value is less, I think