High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner

[High Performance Lubricants]

That's what is stopping me from pulling the trigger on the engine cleaner, and why I've been holding off. I'm also not sure if I want to mix in a straight 30 grade oil during the winter months, even if it's just a quart. It sounds like a great product though.

The viscosity of this product borders a 20wt. It is not going to have a large effect on the cold properties. Of course it matters what you are putting it in. There is also a discount code where you get a 15% discount and we substitute 1 quart in the case with the engine cleaner. That helps the price as well as the freight. Frieight is undoubtedly a mess at the moment but that is out of our control. The discount code is “BITOGFLUSH15”. Sorry Mola we did not ditch the name in the discount code.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

The viscosity of this product borders a 20wt. It is not going to have a large effect on the cold properties. Of course it matters what you are putting it in. There is also a discount code where you get a 15% discount and we substitute 1 quart in the case with the engine cleaner. That helps the price as well as the freight. Frieight is undoubtedly a mess at the moment but that is out of our control. The discount code is “BITOGFLUSH15”. Sorry Mola we did not ditch the name in the discount code.

I think that code worked well for my purchase

And yes, it says on the bottle, it is designed to be mixed with an xW-20, xW-30 or xW-40.

I wonder if you want me to go around delivering products when I'm not at work lol (haha)

 

[JHZR2]

Its about 1000 miles or so, depends if you take Rt 80 or if you spend the money to gIf you're passing through IL they would be more than happy to take care of you.

I didn't take any pictures, we were totoo engrossed in product and conversation but Mr. Dave S is an amazing guy and really took time to show me around and even let me talk a lot lol.

A good and productive time was had by all.

I-80 comes in right where you see the sign for 90, unless you already knew lol.View attachment 82729

I’m pretty familiar, and sometime Ill make a trip in that direction.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

I have at least 300 new miles on the car and the oil with the product and it since I woke up this morning....Yep, another road trip and this time it is pouring rain.

My butt Dyno tells me that I can feel a difference in the engine already and I'm looking to see the oil consumption of my engine because my engine seems to have a leak from somewhere so I'm seeing if the product affect the rate of my leak and I have a hypothesis as to why that may be...

 

[BigShug681]

I have a 2010 Ford Crown Victoria P7B I’d like to try this on, the 4.6 V8 appears to have a lot of varnish from what I can see through the fill cap, would this work at removing varnish and also is $20 shipping normal for just the engine cleaner? This might sound sacrilegious but I don’t plan on purchasing the oil I just can’t justify its price for this vehicle but I would love to have it clean as a whistle for when spring comes around and I replace the timing chains.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

Here is some of the old oil the HPI was in, as I just changed my oil filter and am now adding oil. 1100 miles on car today. 1100 more tomorrow. Was a quart low.

53' Stude will be receiving some oil filters soon, may or may not be from my car. Some nice cut-opening goodness.

I can only imagine what will be found in there, I still think I see Restore! coming out. Ugggh.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

I only wish I could more scientifically or definitively update and document what the product is doing inside my engine. I more than likely have or have had an oil leak, leading me to guess at levels when hot and oil may not have fully returned to the pan, the whole check oil cold vs hot debate. I have always learned that oil, like all fluids, should expand when hot but that you shouldn't check hot not for that reason (oil thins very little when hot, going back a ways, it is designed to keep its protection when hot) but that you'll get a false reading because the oil isn't back in the pan. I wipe the dipstick and check sometimes and it can be very hard to get a read but.

My oil leak was confounded by that I only recently cleaned my PCV valve. I then put about 1100 miles on my car after doing so, and the highway therapy must have really helped it out because, oh man, power is back. I used to be able to float my oil cap on the fill hole when it was running.

FURTHER compounding the issue is that I had a huge leak in a connecting pipe of air intake and I finally replaced that with a new part before my ~1250 mile trip.

I did also change the oil filter.

This means... that if I send my filter to 53' Stude, (a white Supertech filter. I added the product, drove the 1250 miles after doing so and meeting Dave and the HPL crew on I believe Friday, New Year's Eve, then changed it to said White Supertech before driving again 1250 or so miles and then DDing it.. cleaning PCV and installed new intake hose) that the filter I just mentioned twice SHOULD be catching some kind of a deep clean. We will see. Fram Ultra goes on after that.

Car feels very, very smooth, has its power back, no more P0420 as per Readiness Monitors via Torque Pro and ELM327 Bluetooth adapter on the way back, they all set and no more code, I am thinking my air/fuel mixture was super out of whack for many thousands of miles and my New Year's Resolution to finally fix that basic, easy part paid off in one trip.

So about the oil, and the EC, no doubt that helped too.. plugged up PCV may have made the oil leak so once we find that (probably Valve Cover) then it probably won't leak any more oil, my back window wont be a something is leaking fine oily mess and we should be good engine-wise until the end of time.

Added a quart in, will add more engine cleaner when it is day and I have time.

 

[350Rocket]

I only wish I could more scientifically or definitively update and document what the product is doing inside my engine. I more than likely have or have had an oil leak, leading me to guess at levels when hot and oil may not have fully returned to the pan, the whole check oil cold vs hot debate. I have always learned that oil, like all fluids, should expand when hot but that you shouldn't check hot not for that reason (oil thins very little when hot, going back a ways, it is designed to keep its protection when hot) but that you'll get a false reading because the oil isn't back in the pan. I wipe the dipstick and check sometimes and it can be very hard to get a read but.

My oil leak was confounded by that I only recently cleaned my PCV valve. I then put about 1100 miles on my car after doing so, and the highway therapy must have really helped it out because, oh man, power is back. I used to be able to float my oil cap on the fill hole when it was running.

FURTHER compounding the issue is that I had a huge leak in a connecting pipe of air intake and I finally replaced that with a new part before my ~1250 mile trip.

I did also change the oil filter.

This means... that if I send my filter to 53' Stude, (a white Supertech filter. I added the product, drove the 1250 miles after doing so and meeting Dave and the HPL crew on I believe Friday, New Year's Eve, then changed it to said White Supertech before driving again 1250 or so miles and then DDing it.. cleaning PCV and installed new intake hose) that the filter I just mentioned twice SHOULD be catching some kind of a deep clean. We will see. Fram Ultra goes on after that.

Car feels very, very smooth, has its power back, no more P0420 as per Readiness Monitors via Torque Pro and ELM327 Bluetooth adapter on the way back, they all set and no more code, I am thinking my air/fuel mixture was super out of whack for many thousands of miles and my New Year's Resolution to finally fix that basic, easy part paid off in one trip.

So about the oil, and the EC, no doubt that helped too.. plugged up PCV may have made the oil leak so once we find that (probably Valve Cover) then it probably won't leak any more oil, my back window wont be a something is leaking fine oily mess and we should be good engine-wise until the end of time.

Added a quart in, will add more engine cleaner when it is day and I have time.

What engine is this and do you have any pictures of the sludge or plugged pcv? I had a similar issue but no major leaks.

 

[jurko]

I am going to try 1 QT of this cleaner my next oil change in May (6 mo. OCI). Shortly after that I am driving for few days to Las Vegas (around 900 miles round trip). After I get back I am going to drain it and put 6 QT of fresh QS 5W-40 Euro.

Using Gokhan viscosity calculator I wanted to see what the KV40 and KV100 of the 1:6 ratio of HPL cleaner and QS 5W-40 would be. It looks like the KV100 mix still falls within the SAE viscosity 40 grade at 100°C which is stated at Min.12.5 and Max

 

[nthach]

So my concern with the high Ca/Mg content - LSPI, which for the engine I’m thinking of using this at the 30K mark shouldn’t be a concern as I’ll mix it with 5 quarts of 0W-20(or even 0W-16 I picked up for $2/qt). Will this be a concern if I had to use it in a smaller TGDI engine?

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

Almost certainly not. Unless your car absolutely drinks oil running the cleaner at 1:5 will be fine. Remember for LSPI Ca is negative, Mg is neutral, Mo is positive. In this case the detergent dispersant is there to handle the material that will be introduced into the oil.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

I can tell you that I've been starting my engine in 20 degree temperatures and it starts up just fine there is no difference in the way the engine feels when it is cold.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

My engine is also slightly larger than a KA24E engine, which is big for its number of cylinders.

Similar numbers. Large displacement. Large cylinders. Noisy on start. I wish it were quiet but whatever.

We aren't entertaining any side shows here, but in the interest of technical discussion, I have a Big Four, for whatever that means to you on how oil should act in a Big Four with some thin casting around large pistons. As in, the pistons are very large and leave not much space as to their water jackets and outside of the engine etc.

The KA engines were a series of four-stroke inline-four gasoline piston engines manufactured by Nissan, which were offered in 2.0 and 2.4 L. The engines blocks were made of cast-iron, while the cylinder heads were made of aluminum. Despite their large capacity, this motor was not equipped with balance shafts. Wikipedia
Compression ratio: 8.6:1, 9.1:1, 9.2:1, 9.5:1
Management: Hitachi
Cylinder bore: 86 mm (3.4 in); 89 mm (3.5 in)
Power output: 134 hp (100 kW) (1988-1996); 155 hp (116 kW) (1996-2004); 143 hp (107 kW) (1998-2004 Frontier & Xterra)
Block material: Cast iron
Torque output: 152 lb⋅ft (206 N⋅m) at 4400 rpm (1988-1996); 160 lb⋅ft (217 N⋅m) at 4400 rpm (1996-2004)
Head material: Aluminum

My engine specifies to use 5W-30 motor oil. Which brings up another good point.. virtually every engine does, until 5W-20 and then gradually 0W-20 became a thing (as the first choice, printed on the engine oil cap specified oil to use, whether or not there is a plethora of grades printed in an owner's manual.)

The engine is ALWAYS a little noisy on first cold start, I wish it wasnt so but every time I add some of the High Performance Lubricants product, it "feels smoother" as per the unscientific butt dyno. 53' Stude will soon be getting an oil filter with at least 4000 miles on it (since New Year's Eve) to see if there is any nastiness being cleaned, as I'm almost sure there is, please see some of my first posts in this thread for all the additives I put in which I only did because of my long, long trips, they always seem to help but the reality is maybe it is wasted money . This an eternal debate, as I specifically chose Lubro Moly products.

I may be done with them, based on the oil discoloration alone......

 

[TiGeo]

I've been running the HPL engine cleaner in my Sportwagen now for a few weeks and I note zero difference in how it starts/runs/etc.

 

[silverrat]

My engine is also slightly larger than a KA24E engine, which is big for its number of cylinders.

Similar numbers. Large displacement. Large cylinders. Noisy on start. I wish it were quiet but whatever.

We aren't entertaining any side shows here, but in the interest of technical discussion, I have a Big Four, for whatever that means to you on how oil should act in a Big Four with some thin casting around large pistons. As in, the pistons are very large and leave not much space as to their water jackets and outside of the engine etc.



My engine specifies to use 5W-30 motor oil. Which brings up another good point.. virtually every engine does, until 5W-20 and then gradually 0W-20 became a thing (as the first choice, printed on the engine oil cap specified oil to use, whether or not there is a plethora of grades printed in an owner's manual.)

The engine is ALWAYS a little noisy on first cold start, I wish it wasnt so but every time I add some of the High Performance Lubricants product, it "feels smoother" as per the unscientific butt dyno. 53' Stude will soon be getting an oil filter with at least 4000 miles on it (since New Year's Eve) to see if there is any nastiness being cleaned, as I'm almost sure there is, please see some of my first posts in this thread for all the additives I put in which I only did because of my long, long trips, they always seem to help but the reality is maybe it is wasted money . This an eternal debate, as I specifically chose Lubro Moly products.

I may be done with them, based on the oil discoloration alone......

It's a Subaru engine. Just say it's a Subaru engine in an Outback.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

It's a Subaru engine. Just say it's a Subaru engine in an Outback.

Kinda knew that was coming but if you want to think it's that, you go right ahead. Thank you

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

13°F start. No issues. Started right up..

 

[RazorsEdge]

13°F start. No issues. Started right up..

Not sure what you think is *cold* but the low temperature here for the next couple of nights are forecasted -15 degrees F below zero

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

Not sure what you think is *cold* but the low temperature here for the next couple of nights are forecasted -15 degrees F below zero

I stand corrected.

Blazing hot 12°F degree start and it started right up!

 

[OVERKILL]

13°F start. No issues. Started right up..

-10C? Dude, that's not even into the winter rating for a 20w-50

It was -20C here the other day (-4F) and that's not even cold, lol.

Winterpeg is going down to -35C tonight, lol (-31F):