Help with Oil Choice - 13 Civic

Pennzoil motor oil
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OriginHacker21

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Struggling for choice of oil for my 2013 Civic. I've spent several weeks reading every post I can on 0w20 oil and people in similar vehicles here. The conclusion I've read is - high molybdenum is great - its loaded in the engine's factory fill (assembly lube?). The main star seems to be TGMO 0w20. However, recently, all the star 0w20 oils (Toyota, Honda, etc...) have dropped their Moly content to 58-68. Is that an issue for my Civic engine long term or am I over worrying about that? High moly key right?

My local Wal-Marts have only Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 and Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20. I'm considering Honda 0w20 Full Synthetic since I get 1 free oil change with my dealership. But I'm totally cool with buying oil and having them change it too. I understand the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 is an old SM formulation though the person using it really seemed to like it?

I acknowledge a serious OCD factor when it comes to oil. But this is my first new car. I'll be doing a TON of short trips (2.9 miles) with a few (if any) 180 mi round trips a month.

Edit Links:

Honda Full Synthetic 0w20 VOA https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/voa-honda-ultimate-full-synthetic-0w20-c-p-made.161815/
Toyota Full Synthetic 0w20 VOA https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/voa-honda-ultimate-full-synthetic-0w20-c-p-made.161815/

Honda Full Synthetic 0w20 used oil analysis - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/honda-ultimate-0w20-6-765-mi-2011-civic-1-8.173154/

Toyota 0w20 Drop in Moly - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2623790&page=1
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The Toyota 0w20 is your top choice.


+1

See your local Toyota dealer or order it online via Ebay.
 
Caterham says if you take empty jugs to your Toyota dealer you can negotiate for it out of the bulk tank for cheaper than you can buy it in sealed quarts.
 
For that first oil change, its not free if you buy oil and bring it to them. Let them change it, its not going to harm anything at all.
 
If you are really concerned, add a half bottle of Lubro-moly each oil change.

I tend to agree that the Toyota 0W20 is probably the best out there. That doesn't keep me from using PP.

Stay on top of the preventive maintenance and the car will disintegrate before the engine dies.
 
In hot California I would save $$$ and run Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 at $4.50 a quart from Walmart (in the 5 qt. jug). The motor will outlast the rest of the car. The same can be said for Napa syn. 0w20, which is currently on sale for $3.49 but has no moly.
 
I would let them change it for free and in the mean time I would check for sales on your next oil selection. Buy it on sale and have it on hand for the next change.
 
I would have the dealer do your oil changes with the Honda synthetic. Until your warranty is up. Many dealers offer oil change discount coupons. Your engine won't know the difference between any of the 0w20 oil out there.
 
Thanks for the help all. Will get the free change - Full Synthetic if I can. Seems the general consensus is to not worry about the Moly - will look into Lubro-Moly (thanks svhanc). Thanks pbm for "The motor will outlast the rest of the car" - something I have to keep reminding myself when I get into these OCD phases.

It was only 107F yesterday. Felt like my face was going to melt off.

iPhone Weather Screenshot
 
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Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
I would have the dealer do your oil changes with the Honda synthetic. Until your warranty is up. Many dealers offer oil change discount coupons. Your engine won't know the difference between any of the 0w20 oil out there.


This is what I was thinking too. I got the extended 100,000 mile warranty with my first new car and with an expected 5k-10k/year - if I follow this, I'll JUST be using Honda 0w20 for the life of the car. But that doesn't bother me that much. At least I can stop OCD'ing on oil.

Yeah, I've owned the car for 2 months and dealer has sent me 5 coupons for $24 oil changes and tons of free stuff.

I too like the idea of having them do it while in warranty that way if ANYTHING happens they have no excuse.
 
How about Napa Synthetic 0w20? On sale for $3.49 this month, it is rebranded Synpower. While you're there, pick up a can of Lubro/Liqui Moly moly additive, if you like moly that much.

However, Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy is also very good stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: OriginHacker21
Cough cough. Dealer wants $10/qt for the Honda full synthetic 0w20. Yehaw!


If you want the Honda oil but don't want to pay for it, buy Kendall GT-1. The additive package is different, but my guess is the Honda oil is actually re-labeled Trop-Artic, which is a lower-tier of oil to GT-1 according to Philips 66. GT-1 has Titanium which is not present in the Honda oil. Petroleum Service Company online sells it for a bit over half what your dealer wants for the Honda branded oil.

Others mention TGMO because of it's high viscosity index, but it's performance in many important metrics is unknown. It doesn't claim to meet the performance requirements of ACEA A1/B1 for instance, which most name brand 0w20 oils do. Also, Toyota may have optimized the performance characteristics of TGMO within the ILSAC limits for use in Toyota engines, but that doesn't mean it's optimal for use in Honda engines. It's good oil to be sure, and it will probably work fine, but nobody can say if it's "best". If you do choose to use it, do a used oil analysis and keep an eye on the TBN, if TGMO has an obvious weakness it's TBN retention at long drain intervals. SnPb's recent used oil analysis with TGMO in a 2012 Civic showed only 2.6 TBN remaining after 6,000 miles and 30% remaining on the Maintenance-Minder.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/3041582/
 
Also, be careful in thinking more moly = better. Moly has different forms that serve different purposes. The soluble moly in motor oil is primarily a friction moddifier and high-temperature anti-wear additive. Much of the moly you see in a factory fill UOA however is likely insoluble Moly-Disulfide which is an extreme-pressure anti-wear additive. In the factory oil it comes from some of the initial coating of MoS2 solid film lube wearing off the piston skirts as the engine breaks in. That initial factory fill also contains a ton of additives which are not in commercial oils, intended to aid break-in. Some come from coatings, others from the assembly-lube. You wouldn't want all your oil changes to be with oil like that, your catcon would get poisoned and you might end up with deposits.

Edit: Also, Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy is NOT an "old" SM formulation, it's an SN formulation. I'm not sure where you read that, but I've got a pretty good idea it's the opinion of a certain militant advocate of high VI oils. Patman just posted an excellent UOA with SN Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy and I'll have one here in about a week.
 
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I never did a used oil analysis on my R18 but it ran great on every oil I used in it.

I did run Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 in the winter for the cold starts, and regular 5w20 in the summer, PP, Synpower, Pennzoil conventional, Syntec, etc.
 
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