I need some input from the folks here who actually know what the heck they are talking about, most of the people on my main forum and IRL keep shouting around vastly differing opinions on what should be run in my particular high performance engine.
Engine is a Chrysler 360 magnum (basically a LA or A engine with new heads if you don't know what the magnum is) based 408 stroker with 10:1 compression, Total Seal AP steel rings NOT GAPLESS. Cam is a 224/238@ .50 with .578/.580 Lift cam with a hair over 300LB open pressure and 140lb seat pressure with a full roller valve-train including hardened pushrods. Cam is made of austempered ductile iron with a "soft" steel distributor drive gear. Oil system has been de-bured and cleaned up with the pump (Melling high volume type) inspected and matched up to the rear main cap. Oil clearances are set to exactly the "middle" of the stock FSM rebuild spec (.0005-.0022 inch for rods, .0005-.0015 inch main #1 and .0005-.002 inch for mains #2-#5). There will be a large oil cooler and oil accumulator to help expand the amount of oil available and keep temps down. Overall the power factor has been raised up from the stock 240/335 hp/tq to 430/480 with the NA 408 and this go around it will be around 640/660 hp/tq. Final goal is 760/700 once the R3 block is ready (I will blow the caps on a stock block past 500whp, 600whp goal.) NOT A FLAT TAPPET ENGINE. AGAIN, FULL ROLLER.
There is a Paxton NOVI2000 supercharger present up top that will be sharing oil with the engine as well as hitting with up to 18psi boost, please keep that in mind.
So far Brad Penn "Green oil" in 10w-30, Amsoil Z-rod 10w-30, Amsoil Domninator 10w-30, and Valvoline VR1 10w-30 have all been suggested and hotly debated by several people and so far the Brad Penn blend is "Winning" in my brain since it appears that several full race engines from my main tech adviser and machinist have had nearly zero wear on them after a season of races but the issue is my application is NOT a race car. I am simply building a very hot street car, I can't change the oil after every race or some crazy short interval like 300 miles. I personally do not want a ester based oil like redline for several reasons involving seals and gasket materials.
Engine is a Chrysler 360 magnum (basically a LA or A engine with new heads if you don't know what the magnum is) based 408 stroker with 10:1 compression, Total Seal AP steel rings NOT GAPLESS. Cam is a 224/238@ .50 with .578/.580 Lift cam with a hair over 300LB open pressure and 140lb seat pressure with a full roller valve-train including hardened pushrods. Cam is made of austempered ductile iron with a "soft" steel distributor drive gear. Oil system has been de-bured and cleaned up with the pump (Melling high volume type) inspected and matched up to the rear main cap. Oil clearances are set to exactly the "middle" of the stock FSM rebuild spec (.0005-.0022 inch for rods, .0005-.0015 inch main #1 and .0005-.002 inch for mains #2-#5). There will be a large oil cooler and oil accumulator to help expand the amount of oil available and keep temps down. Overall the power factor has been raised up from the stock 240/335 hp/tq to 430/480 with the NA 408 and this go around it will be around 640/660 hp/tq. Final goal is 760/700 once the R3 block is ready (I will blow the caps on a stock block past 500whp, 600whp goal.) NOT A FLAT TAPPET ENGINE. AGAIN, FULL ROLLER.
There is a Paxton NOVI2000 supercharger present up top that will be sharing oil with the engine as well as hitting with up to 18psi boost, please keep that in mind.
So far Brad Penn "Green oil" in 10w-30, Amsoil Z-rod 10w-30, Amsoil Domninator 10w-30, and Valvoline VR1 10w-30 have all been suggested and hotly debated by several people and so far the Brad Penn blend is "Winning" in my brain since it appears that several full race engines from my main tech adviser and machinist have had nearly zero wear on them after a season of races but the issue is my application is NOT a race car. I am simply building a very hot street car, I can't change the oil after every race or some crazy short interval like 300 miles. I personally do not want a ester based oil like redline for several reasons involving seals and gasket materials.