Help me pick where to mount my oil filter. 1uzfe '82 Malibu

[malibuguy79]

I have to run a remote filter due to interference with my steering box.

I may be overthinking this. A lot of the goal of this car is hopefully long road trips, multi-state trips. So my thoughts are I do not want it where debris or even a potential minor accident may leave the motor without oil. I can limp a car off a highway if the radiator is busted...not so much with no oil pressure.

Easy button is in front of the rad with the option to mount low and behind where the steel bumper will be. I do plan on running an SS type valance eventually so access may be fun.

Another option is on the outside of the driver side frame rail...would need to maybe make a debris shield but thats easy enough.

Option 3 is make a new bracket that takes place of the old shift linkage pivot and mount under the floor. Debris still could take it out but not much different then most cars on the road. The exhaust will be routed under the oil pan to the passenger side so heat would not be a concern.

Option D, behind the left headlight. However the battery will be located over here and may interfere...I am not ready to mount the battery yet. Also potential messy change.

I could also mount it in the "A" of the lower control arm. Its a sweet spot but parks it right against the exhaust manifold...so heat shielding would be required. Line routing may be a little goofy plus brake line needs to live in the same basic area.

What say you?

 

[JoelB]

Option 2 is my preference. But I really like a filter mounted vertically so I'm biased. Option 4 looks messy. Option 5 id really worry about the heat.

 

[SatinSilver]

Any pictures of the exterior since you don't see those every day? Looks clean and rust free from the above photos.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Interesting swap. Any more info on it?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Make sure you size the oil supply and return lines accordingly for the distance of the remote filter. Especially if you plan on driving this car in really cold weather. There was a long thread about someone wanting to use a remote filter pretty far from the engine, and it was surprising how much pressure drop there was on those long lengths of hose to and from the remote filter when the oil was cold and thick.

Thread 'How long is too long of a oil line for a remote filter head?'

Apr 12, 2024

Vehicle in question is the Ram in sig.
I bought a remote set up a while back, 1/2 inch barbs, dual head. So my preferred location takes the filters to the front of the bed. That is roughly 20 feet of line each way. Before I make a custom hydraulic line (lost all oil twice due to hose barb slip), I wanted to ask whether the delay in oil pressure is problematic. It's a tenth of a second or so compared to baseline.
Second thought that crossed my mind is if the filter head is 1", is the 1/2 inch line inadequate?

The frame rail mounting is not ideal as I don't stay on pavement. Cramped...

• Dyusik
• Replies: 14
• Forum: Engine Oil Filters

 

[Kira]

Option #2, nestled in its own corner, away from other parts and heat....simpler.

 

[4WD]

“D” + battery in trunk
Edit: that might allow a filter base up install - cleaner removal …

 

[53' Stude]

I have to run a remote filter due to interference with my steering box.

I may be overthinking this. A lot of the goal of this car is hopefully long road trips, multi-state trips. So my thoughts are I do not want it where debris or even a potential minor accident may leave the motor without oil. I can limp a car off a highway if the radiator is busted...not so much with no oil pressure.

Easy button is in front of the rad with the option to mount low and behind where the steel bumper will be. I do plan on running an SS type valance eventually so access may be fun.
View attachment 256462

Another option is on the outside of the driver side frame rail...would need to maybe make a debris shield but thats easy enough.
View attachment 256463

Option 3 is make a new bracket that takes place of the old shift linkage pivot and mount under the floor. Debris still could take it out but not much different then most cars on the road. The exhaust will be routed under the oil pan to the passenger side so heat would not be a concern.
View attachment 256469


Option D, behind the left headlight. However the battery will be located over here and may interfere...I am not ready to mount the battery yet. Also potential messy change.
View attachment 256466

I could also mount it in the "A" of the lower control arm. Its a sweet spot but parks it right against the exhaust manifold...so heat shielding would be required. Line routing may be a little goofy plus brake line needs to live in the same basic area.
View attachment 256467

What say you?

Nice work and photos. Thank You

 

[eljefino]

Another vote for option 2. I had a filter behind a perforated splash shield within the tire spray zone on my 3300 Cutlass Ciera and it did fine there.

 

[malibuguy79]

Any pictures of the exterior since you don't see those every day? Looks clean and rust free from the above photos.

There is surface rust here and there but no actual rot. Unfortunately Ive had to replace the hood and fender to an incompetent neighbor dropping a steel beam on it. Then they scraped the passenger door with a forklift. Also had to replace the trunk a few years back due to someone just clipping it with a backhoe. My fault for taking so long to complete the build Car wasnt perfect originally, was poorly repainted prior to me purchasing it and they didnt fix any of the dings and dents from the PO. Luckily my landlord is awesome (and a car guy) and we agreed to splitting body work and a new paint job 50/50. I plan on painting it Toyota Super White 2. Ive always wanted a white Malibu. I have grown quite fond of this "light brown metallic" however.

Interesting swap. Any more info on it?

Bought the car about 12 years ago as a 229 V6 car. Played with that a bit. Then yanked the motor with intentions of building it, ended up swapping in a 267 V8 out of a friends wagon. Did a cheap, backyard style turbo build on that. Had alot of fun. Then pulled that out over 8 years ago to begin this swap. And well just taking my merry old time with it.

Make sure you size the oil supply and return lines accordingly for the distance of the remote filter. Especially if you plan on driving this car in really cold weather. There was a long thread about someone wanting to use a remote filter pretty far from the engine, and it was surprising how much pressure drop there was on those long lengths of hose to and from the remote filter when the oil was cold and thick.

Thread 'How long is too long of a oil line for a remote filter head?'

Apr 12, 2024

Vehicle in question is the Ram in sig.
I bought a remote set up a while back, 1/2 inch barbs, dual head. So my preferred location takes the filters to the front of the bed. That is roughly 20 feet of line each way. Before I make a custom hydraulic line (lost all oil twice due to hose barb slip), I wanted to ask whether the delay in oil pressure is problematic. It's a tenth of a second or so compared to baseline.
Second thought that crossed my mind is if the filter head is 1", is the 1/2 inch line inadequate?

The frame rail mounting is not ideal as I don't stay on pavement. Cramped...

• Dyusik
• Replies: 14
• Forum: Engine Oil Filters

The oil filter adapter is forced to run 8an fittings. I have Radium engineering 8an-10an banjo fittings to allow for 10an lines. Trying to keep the overall run within 4~ feet.

“D” + battery in trunk

I was considering that but I do not want the necessary work and whatnot associated with that.

The car is just a whatever I want build for me

 

[ZeeOSix]

If the remote filter kit comes with hoses, then they probably sized them correctly for their length. And if so, hopefully you can find a location that can use the supplied hoses. Or do they expect the installer to have hoses made? If so, do they give recommended hose size for required length of hose needed?

 

[malibuguy79]

If the remote filter kit comes with hoses, then they probably sized them correctly for their length. And if so, hopefully you can find a location that can use the supplied hoses. Or do they expect the installer to have hoses made? If so, do they give recommended hose size for required length of hose needed?

I have to make the lines. The adapter came with its own -8 fittings. The Summit brand oil filter mount didnt come with any fittings. Dealing with making the lines is not a problem for me. I just cannot decide to do ptfe lines or the more simplier and cheaper pushlock stuff.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I have to make the lines. The adapter came with its own -8 fittings. The Summit brand oil filter mount didnt come with any fittings. Dealing with making the lines is not a problem for me. I just cannot decide to do ptfe lines or the more simplier and cheaper pushlock stuff.

What sized lines (the ID of the lines) can be used on those -8 AN fittings?

 

[malibuguy79]

I am adapting up to -10an so .625" ID. The fittings it came with had a very small inner diameter vs the Radium pieces I will be using.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I am adapting up to -10an so .625" ID.

I ran the dP calculations through that on-line tool I linked in post 5 using the 0.625 ID. Assumed the total hose length is 8 ft and assumed some flow rates and oil viscosity. Basically it says when the oil is hot there's only a 2.7 PSI drop with high flow (8 GPM). But when cold, and with lower flow (4 GPM), the pressure drop with 8 feet of hose would be 24 PSI. Of course if the flow rate is lower (like 2 GPM because you're letting the engine warm-up with low revs) then the pressure drop would only be 12 PSI. And if the hose length is lower the pressure drop will be lower.

The goal is to use the largest ID line you can and make the hose runs as short as possible.

Cold oil at 4 GPM.

Cold oil at 2 GPM.

Hot oil at 8 GPM.

 

[malibuguy79]

I ran the dP calculations through that on-line tool I linked in post 5 using the 0.625 ID. Assumed the total hose length is 8 ft and assumed some flow rates and oil viscosity. Basically it says when the oil is hot there's only a 2.7 PSI drop with high flow (8 GPM). But when cold, and with lower flow (4 GPM), the pressure drop with 8 feet of hose would be 24 PSI. Of course if the flow rate is lower (like 2 GPM because you're letting the engine warm-up with low revs) then the pressure drop would only be 12 PSI. And if the hose length is lower the pressure drop will be lower.

The goal is to use the largest ID line you can and make the hose runs as short as possible.

Cold oil at 4 GPM.
View attachment 256579

Cold oil at 2 GPM.
View attachment 256580

Hot oil at 8 GPM.
View attachment 256581

I guess you missed it earlier total run length would be closer to 4ft, 2ft out, 2ft back. I can see about trying to go larger for the lines but flow will still be limited by the fittings.

I tried messing with that site earlier but I really do not know whats considered good or bad.

 

[RyanY]

IMO if going through the trouble of installing a remote filter, mount it base-up in a location where you can change it without crawling under the car. This would be most important during long road trips where you change oil along the way (in a walmart parking lot). Ideally with a mity vac.

Is it possible to mount it to the fender right behind the battery location? Or maybe to the firewall? It should be easy to fabricate a bracket, if necessary, to keep it vertical.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I guess you missed it earlier total run length would be closer to 4ft, 2ft out, 2ft back. I can see about trying to go larger for the lines but flow will still be limited by the fittings.

I tried messing with that site earlier but I really do not know whats considered good or bad.

Yes, the fittings will add some pressure drop, but with them included with the 4 feet total run probably still a bit less than the pressure drop numbers shown with the 8 feet without fittings.

The concern to be aware of with a remote filter setup is the added pressure drop, because if excessive can put the oil pump into pressure relief at much lower oil flow output. This is especially a concern in cold weather start-ups when the oil is cold and thick. In the thread where the guy wanted to run 20 feet of normal sized hose, the pump would be in pressure relief big time at low RPM on a very cold start-up and starve the engine of oil supply.

Your setup with 0.625 inch ID hose and 4 feet total run won't be bad. I'd still keep the engine RPM down pretty good until the oil warms up some.

 

[malibuguy79]

So finally time to mount the sucker and I came up with a new spot. I may have to add a 3rd point but its surprisingly strong as is with just 2-point mounting atm.