Help me choose NAPA proselect or silver

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Hi all:) 3 month oil changer here. I do about 980-1,300 miles max in 3 months. toyota corolla, 98 model. Even before the yota, had a 95 neon. and see the smae thing every 3 months. Black thickish looking crud, liked it was choked to death. I can tell i 3 months when its time to change oil, as i can tell the egine seems to run differnet.
Long story short..reading about efficiency here, beta ratios, high end, low end filters ect..my conclusion seems to boil down too a cellulose filter. Faster, sooner particle capturing, rather than loading up over time. I am looking at the NAPA proselects, or silvers. and not sure of thier one and the same. They appear to be, just the silver havng 10% more media? At leat according too NAPAs youtibe filter video.
Right now, have a pure one on, and about 850 miles in 2 months. pennzoil platinum, which on the dipstick loks remarkable clean, compared to a dino. Ive cut fitlers open, bosh distance plus the last, the media was barely stained. it was a waste to cut it open, should have left it on. I like too change the filter as well so everything is fresh. again, it seems for my application, a cellulose cheaper fitler fits the works. I do ALLT of stop n go traffic, kinda like a taxi cab. the reason? From 3- 5 pm ere traffic is BACKED up, and I 95 is mostly a joke. engineers had 2 lanes shut down last year, all summer. Takes like 40 minutes to go 5 exits. And on a main road downtown to work, 8 miles one way, 8 miles back 5 days a week, it takes 30-35 minutes, that bad.
so, what would the efficeincy ratings of the proselect be and the silver? Im more of a NAPA fan, than purolator.
thanks all:)
 
I also feel the gold would be overkill, as it appears to be for extended drains, which is clearly something im not doing. Thought many would recommned me the gold. Unless im wrong about that.
 
Been using Napa silvers for the last few oil changes on our 04 doing 6-7k. No noise on start-up even in the sub zero temps we have had over the last few weeks. Got a bunch of them for $2.54 a piece. I will stick with these in the future.
 
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While I've never been a big fan of getting oil analysis, I think in this case it might be worthwhile because on the face of it, it sounds like you're changing the oil way too frequently, even severe duty is usually every 3k. Plus if you're using synthetic, it's even more of a waste of money. If you saved the money wasted on too frequent oil changes, maybe you could put it toward a newer car.

Changing oil too frequently is almost as bad as pouring used oil down the drain, just bad for the environment. There's a certain percentage of oil that doesn't get recycled which is why government is trying to cut down on the number of unnecessary oil changes. Maybe you do recycle your oil, but maybe a certain number of places that take oil don't recycle their used oil properly.
 
car book says 3 months or 3,000 miles. It dosnt look good at all. ide rather evacuate te nasty looking sludge forming stuff, and put new oil in. it is what it is, due to driving habbits. its un avoidable. I dont use synthetic all the time, its for winter, go back to a blend or dino spring, synth summer, and dino for fall. thats my routine.
so...proselect or silver. What are thier efficiency ratings? or beta ratios?
 
What a waste of oil. You can easily go six months on dino.For me, if an oil is not dirty looking, it is not doing its job.Motor oil has dramatically improved since you manual was written.
 
"Black thickish looking crud" in 1300 miles? Do you have a working thermostat? If you've been changing every 3 months for a while, the inside of that engine should be pristine. How many miles on this 98 Corolla? How many miles were on it when you acquired it? Did the previous owner neglect it?
 
The Bosch filter looked great, without stain, and "was a waste to cut it open, should have left it on."

If it was mine I might stick with that filter. "Loading up over time"? If it loads up in 3 mos/3000K miles, the filter you choose won't matter. Something else is wrong.
 
This is an extremely low OCI - bare minimum conventional oil can run at least 3,000 miles, which is twice your current mileage.

I would suggest using the cheapest filter, as you are far from pushing the limits of hardware and durability here.
 
The Napa Silver is a bit superior to the Pro Select IMO, although they likely use the same media the Silvers tend to have a little bit more of it. They also constantly go on sale so they actually end up being cheaper than Pro Selects for the occasional walk in customer purchase.

If you buy a case of 12 Pro Selects can be less.

Silvers for the win IMO.
 
As has been mentioned many times, oil color is not an indication of how dirty the oil actually is, only an oil analysis will tell you that. I don't think you need to change the filter that often, most standard oil filters are good for at least 5-7k and even in the old days with 3k oil changes, the standard recommendation was to change the filter every other oil change, but people always changed it at each oil change. While you are in severe duty mode, I think you can go longer because while the trips are short, they are for long periods stuck in traffic so at least the engine has time to fully warm up. If it wasn't getting warmed up, then maybe your short OCI might make a little bit of sense, but as everyone here mentioned, go at least 3k, the filter won't really matter at that interval.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Moto..._Frequency.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Black_Motor_Oil.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Should_Darkened_Oil_be_Changed.aspx
 
I see! well over the summer, in the sweltering humid 97-100 degree F heat(plus humidity) i noticed the heat guage started too rise, not into the red, but it was goin up thier. The car prob never had a coolant and thermo replacement for many years. SO in september, i got a new stant thermostat ( different from the dealer and cheaper) but it had a small tiny air hole in it. new gasket, replaced myself. Drained old red fluid out, and re filled with prestone any make or model car. Guy at atuozone said it turns pink eventualy. The dealer thermo has a toddle is it called? in the small hole, the stant dosnt. but since replacing it, the temp gauge has not risin. I do have to do the upper and lower coolant hoes though, def seeen better days. Get those from NAPA when it warms up out.
Again, i had noticed under the oil fill cap, thier was black crud baked, caked,w hatever onto the metal. Using super tech 10w 30 dino from september too december and like 1,200 miles, noticbly cleaned tht crud off, under the oil cap. so im guessing thiers crud built up in the engine, why its turning black n thick n nasty gooey looking so quick?
 
whats the beta ratio or efficieny of the silver filters? i belive the napa golds ar 95% but at what microns i dont know.
 
Maybe i should have stayed witht he toyota dealer thermo and coolant? or its just a mess in the engine, form my father driving it regarldess, also short tripping. He did go too our local jiffy lube center before he passed. Sticker still on the window.
 
Did the spark plugs too. Those i get from the dealer. torqued them down precisly to specs with a fan torque rachet. The dealer ones, have double electrodes, where the aftermarket ones have a sinlge. 2 years ago i used the single electrode ones, car ran horrible, putteed. also replaced the wpark wires with NAPA mileage plus. using an ohm meter, they were well within specs, testing the resistance. Only one plus i ever found outside of the dealer had a double electrode, bosch platinum plus, the deler ones are copper. double electrodes made the car run normal.
 
Originally Posted By: ziggy
whats the beta ratio or efficieny of the silver filters? i belive the napa golds ar 95% but at what microns i dont know.


Go to the WIX website to find out - for a 1998 Toyota Corolla.
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=51394

The WIX is the same as the NAPA Gold. Says in the link above that the beta ratio is: 2/20=6/20.

This equates to an efficiency of:
50% @ 6 microns and 95% @ 20 microns.

Don't know what the Silvers are, but probably not as good as the Golds.
 
i see, i did look last night. figured that much, not as good. prob 90-92% at 20 microns, and 38% at 6 microns or less. just guessing.
It seems to me, that cellulose would catch prticoles quicker, but if it was a really good efficient material used. Golds are for extended drains. Interesting that the ure ones are 99.9% but at 40 microns, box says so, the classics, 97.5% at 40 microns..so the the napa golds are 95% at 20 microns. im assuming the purolators beat the golds hands down?
 
Originally Posted By: ziggy
i see, i did look last night. figured that much, not as good. prob 90-92% at 20 microns, and 38% at 6 microns or less. just guessing.
It seems to me, that cellulose would catch prticoles quicker, but if it was a really good efficient material used. Golds are for extended drains. Interesting that the ure ones are 99.9% but at 40 microns, box says so, the classics, 97.5% at 40 microns..so the the napa golds are 95% at 20 microns. im assuming the purolators beat the golds hands down?


I've never seen any information that says NAPA Gold filters are for "extended drains".

Which PureOne is specified for your Corolla? Not all PureOnes are '@ 40 microns'.
 
I see you're driving a Toyota, I don't think I'd get too wrapped up in efficiencies since the OEM filter is around 50%. Toyota doesn't seem to concerned about it. Just about anything you buy aftermarket will most likely blow that out of the water.
 
Stuff i read here, well others 'feel' the gold is for extended drains, due too the glass enhanced media. So i was under the impression it was. Seemed to make sense. I have the 14476, larger one is 14477. Box states 99.9% at 40 microns. though i dont know what JS test was used.
Yes jeep, a toyota: ) I suppose im obssessing? over cleanliness* but thiers a reason why the oil is all thick n gooey looking. put a pure 1 air filter in too, 99% efficient. Also have a denso dealer filter barely used. Wante too try something different. Why i am looking at the silvers or proselcts.
my point too all this, is a filter for short OCI's but captures as much gunk, particles, whatevers in thier in the shortest time, yet efficient.
I always clean up the filters after hacking them, and put them in the recycling bin, except for the media, that i throw out obviously. by pass spring or leaf, endcaps, can, everything else..recycling bin:) after wiping it off till its near spotless. machining it, if you wanna call it that, removes the rest of any impurities.
 
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