Have you ever seen a bad UOA caused by low quality oil?

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ekpolk posted a critical point to consider!
I would like to see some Wolf's Head straight 30 tests, however!

Well, if I EVER get back on top again and am returned to the status of "master of all I survey" (it's a small kingdom
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), I will most certainly be happy to provide two back to back 3k UOA with el cheapo junque oil crap ...and see if it "flushes"
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I would consider a few UOAs I've seen to be bad due to the oil themselves.
In those UOAs, the motor oil sheared out of proper grade in under 5,000 miles of use.
Some people claim this is a chronic issue with some dino 5W30s. I don't claim to know on that count.
On counter-point, you could argue that no ENGINE DAMAGE actually occurred.
Personally, it creeps me out if my oil is out of grade at the end of my interval.
 
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Personally, it creeps me out if my oil is out of grade at the end of my interval.

Yes, I'm sure it would ...but as you said ..probably no damage/wear occured. We don't know if the OEM spec for a given oil actually factors that shearing into the mix ..so to speak ..to give the specified OCI. The new 5w-20's seem to be challenging this though ..but 20 weight is the broadest weight on the visc chart. You can start at the threshold of a 30 weight ..and go WAY down to the bottom and say "See!!!! It stayed in grade!!!!!
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So ..it could just be a game of marginal "spec semantics".
 
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Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Well ..I do have a HV pump. That was one of my "beliefs" in the use of snyths before coming here. In the case of some engines ..it still is. Some machinists have asserted that, although great for hydraulically controlled valve lash engines, synths were not always great for bearing wear. This is naturally in engines, due to being seen by a machinist, are either abused ..or with high mileage ..and probably were using older oils. This, the use of the HV pump, would neutralize any side effects of using ultra thin oils. This paradigm was shattered with my first UOA before which I had used M1 0w30 (when I could find it) and 5w30 exclusively). This engine needs heavier oil. Couple that with HV oil flow
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My volume is tremendous ..even at idle. Hence I wonder if: 1, I'm constantly in bypass due to normal media restriction, which would reduce the amount of oil that is proportionally getting filtered ..and 2, Since I added the by-pass element it has made this worse and 2a has damaged the media in it. The "stand alone" Amsoil bypass has an outlet restrictor (about .030) in it to help reduce the differential via reduced velocity.

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I would be interested in knowing if the remote bases were intended/designed for the Ford filters .

The filters are basically identical except for the threaded inserts ...which in the case of the Amsoil unit ..happen to be 3/4 16 on one end ..and 1 - 16 on the filter end. There should be no difference other than the biasing valve ..which I don't have. This would, IMHO, exascerbate the stress on the bypass media. The Amsoil combo dual unit allegedly (see Bob's filter study) doesn't choke the flow out of the bypass in this set up.

Depending on my next UOA. I may "detune" this setup to just accept the normal two Ford filters and just go to a 6 month OCI. I'm not going to a TP filter bypass. That's WAY too much maintenance for "progress" IMHO. I have "stand alone" mounts, of various industrial designs, that would accept a paper towel roll ..but I'm getting limited on room (without getting too creative).

One other possibility. I may abandon the dual remote altogether for primary filtration and go back to standard Ford/Mopar filter and then mount the Amsoil bypass filters (still on the PermaCool mount since Amsoil has funky threads even on the mount ports) and just choke the flow via 1/4 or 1/8 lines and return it via the valve cover or to the pan. By doing this I believe that I will lose some oil temp "buffering" during long hill climbs and such, since I doubt, given the volume through any bypass filter, that any appreciable amount of oil cooling really occurs (as in impact on actual mean sump temp).

These evolutions take so much time. It takes many months to accumulate a 12-15k UOA ..and maybe a few more to get around to installing the modifications (counter to popular belief - there is a tremendous full time life outside of our lubrication distractions here ..as healthy as they may be
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If nothing else ..I'll demonstrate how NOT to design the perfect oil system.
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For some unknown reason, a picture of a Rube Goldberg machine is forming in my brain.
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quote:

Originally posted by kickster:
I have looked at many UOA and so far I have not seen one bad result that was caused by oil itself. It is always a mechanical problem such as mixing of water and oil, poor air filtration, fuel in the oil etc that caused the UOA flag to go up.

I think any oil changed at 5K mark will protect your engine well enough (assuming everything else is in good working condition)

If you have seen a bad UAO that was caused by low quality oil please post the link.


I wouldn't feel comfortable using a 5K OCI with just any oil without doing UOA's to make sure the oil's good for that long. Some may not be. I use 5K OCI's for my vehicles because my UOA's have told that my oil is good for that, in my vehicles, and with my driving habits. I use Chevron/Havoline oil and PureOne filters.
 
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For some unknown reason, a picture of a Rube Goldberg machine is forming in my brain.
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For all I know ...it may be with "good cause". I get real strange looks from the bracket racers that see it when it's in my racer/wrench's shop. They treate lubrication like it's an after thought.

Flattery will get you nowhere
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I have dozens of bad results from bad oils. Granted none are produced in the US, but some are major brands.
Some are posted on my site, and I've put a few here. others I haven't gotten around to posting anywhere except to their owners.
Frequent problem is with viscosity loss at 100 or so hours, with higher wear numbers. Others that show high wear are low zinc/phos in diesel oils.
 
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