Group IV oils

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Wow - that's very interesting. I'm going to run the ARX cycles through it and then see if there's any new data by the end of those, should probably be several months before I put another 5k miles on the car.

As of right now though I'm definitely leaning more toward the M1 filter, after looking at that UOA.
 
In your mind you are trying to get something from oil that you will never find.If your engine has blowby you may need an overhaul. A good synt. like M1 or Amsoil may be able to clean carbon from rings that can help blowby, but no oil will repair a worn engine.
 
I agree with the majority of your post, but have seen with my own eyes and from others that UOA's do not show one oil to be better than another unless trended for a very long time and tear downs are performed. I only use UOA's to see how long I can effectively run a given oil. A few UOA's showing wear metals unless way out of spec is absolutely useless.

In applications other than street cars you start to see substantial differences between group III and IV-V oils.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
In your mind you are trying to get something from oil that you will never find.If your engine has blowby you may need an overhaul. A good synt. like M1 or Amsoil may be able to clean carbon from rings that can help blowby, but no oil will repair a worn engine.


Actually I'm just trying to see if I can get the issue resolved (via treatment) without having to have it rebuilt. I'm aware that that may or may not be possible, depending on what exactly is causing it - but spending $100 or so on treatments to try to fix it before spending $1k+ on a rebuild seems worthwhile to me. It's like betting on a game where your bookie gives you great odds, and your statistical chances of winning are at least halfway decent. At least that's the way I figure it...I'm not a gambling man but I don't mind rolling the dice to save some money.

I'm not trying to use the oil itself to resolve the issue - that's a bit ridiculous
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I was fishing for oil advice because, once I'm done the treatment, I want to be running the optimal oil/filter.
 
You might even benefit from the '2 bottle' quick treatment Frank has been developing. Lots of info on the Auto-RX site, take some time to read it, and be sure to follow the directions exactly as they are laid out.....
 
You would be smart to save any expensive oils or filters until after a couple of complete Auto-Rx treatments. Auto-Rx seems to be more effective with regular conventional oils like Castrol GTX.
 
That's the plan - I'm going to run the Pennzoil YB on the first cycle, then Pennzoil Platinum for the rinse, like ryland recommended. After the rinse I'm going to start it on AMSOIL, with (as far as current data points) M1 filter.
 
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Originally Posted By: Floppie
That's the plan - I'm going to run the Pennzoil YB on the first cycle, then Pennzoil Platinum for the rinse, like ryland recommended. After the rinse I'm going to start it on AMSOIL, with (as far as current data points) M1 filter.


How many miles are you going to go on the rinse phase?
 
That is exactly what I am about to do with my ARX cycle. I just bought the YB oil, now need to order the ARX. The company is about 4-5 hours from me so it should be here soon.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
In your mind you are trying to get something from oil that you will never find.If your engine has blowby you may need an overhaul. A good synt. like M1 or Amsoil may be able to clean carbon from rings that can help blowby, but no oil will repair a worn engine.


I'm in TOTAL agreement here. The only way any additive/engine enema [censored] will ever help with blow-by is if the rings are severely gummed, and if that's the case they are *probably* also very worn.

If I had an engine that I cared about and it had a blow-by problem, the only thing I would do is run a full synthetic and do short OCIs for a couple of changes and see if it helps. The risk with solvent additives is just too high for me. I've always felt this way and was horrified by all the additive threads on here when I first joined... but now I feel a bit justified by all the "strange noise after XxxxXX clean phase..." and "high consumption after XxxxXX...." and "low oil pressure after XxxxXX..." type threads that are turning up.

NOTHING in my crankcase but OIL!!!
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: tig1
In your mind you are trying to get something from oil that you will never find.If your engine has blowby you may need an overhaul. A good synt. like M1 or Amsoil may be able to clean carbon from rings that can help blowby, but no oil will repair a worn engine.


I'm in TOTAL agreement here. The only way any additive/engine enema [censored] will ever help with blow-by is if the rings are severely gummed, and if that's the case they are *probably* also very worn.

If I had an engine that I cared about and it had a blow-by problem, the only thing I would do is run a full synthetic and do short OCIs for a couple of changes and see if it helps. The risk with solvent additives is just too high for me. I've always felt this way and was horrified by all the additive threads on here when I first joined... but now I feel a bit justified by all the "strange noise after XxxxXX clean phase..." and "high consumption after XxxxXX...." and "low oil pressure after XxxxXX..." type threads that are turning up.

NOTHING in my crankcase but OIL!!!




Agree

Only additive I've ever used,and it's been years ago,was CD2 Ring / lifter cleaner additive.

I dont buy into all these other oil additives people rave about on these forums.
 
After you complete the Auto-Rx treatments, I suggest you run some Maxlife engine oil with a 4 oz maintenance dose of Auto-Rx for one or two oil changes. If you really think that you need synthetic, then they make a full synthetic as well. But for your projected oil change intervals the regular Maxlife would be fine. I have found that with this combination, my HM engine's blowby and other signs of engine aging have disappeared nearly completely.

I'm not sure what all they put in that oil, but it is the best oil I have found for these purposes. I believe that M1 high mileage 10W-30 would do as well, but costs a lot more.

While the SSO is a great oil and would do fine in your application, it is rather expensive to be changing out every 3-5k miles. The combination above would give you all the protection, etc you need, and Maxlife has a good shot of moly in it as well. Another really good oil is Schaeffers series 9000 5W-30 full synthetic and it has great anti-wear, and nice dose of moly- all around great additive package and capable of extended drains. I think they actually consider it a racing oil.

Just some other options to the SSO if you want to save a few bucks while changing your oil so often.
 
If the oil starts coming out clean I'll extend the OCI - if not, I'm thinking I'll probably run cheaper oil until I get enough money saved to have it overhauled.

Starting the whole process this week though...whenever the ARX gets here.

Thanks again for all the input
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Do we know what base oil Royal Purple uses? I haven't found that info yet. Amsoil might be the only Group IV oil. Mobil won't say what's in Mobil 1. Schaeffer uses about 25% PAO and the rest is a very high quality Group III. Just about everybody else uses Group III. The best Group III based oils combined with high quality additive packages are very good. The cheaper ones aren't worth their cost.

Don't use any additive. Put the money into better oil. Auto-Rx isn't considered an additive, although some might call it that. In any case, it works very well. I've used it and will use it again.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
Mobil won't say what's in Mobil 1.

Not exactly true. The Mobil 1 FAQ clearly says that Mobil 1 contains PAO, but they do not say how much. Given that there are at least 15 different M1 formulations sold in the US alone, and probably each with various amounts of PAO, I would not expect them to claim an exact amount.

The Japanese MSDS For M1 give some hints, since in Japan they are required to disclose mineral oil percent (but not PAO/Ester percent) along with other chemical additives that are considered to be hazardous (an MSDS is to disclose hazardous chemicals in a product). Based on that it looks like M1 can contain anywhere from 30-70% PAO.

Also, there were numerous news stories about shortages of M1 products after the ExxonMobil PAO plant in Beaumont TX (one of the largest PAO plants in the world) was damaged and shut down by Hurricane Ike. Here is one article, but you can google others:
http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article001239508.cfm
 
Probably should make a new thread for this, but hey, I don't think anyone will hate me for derailing my own thread and not cluttering the board up with a new one
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Keep in mind I have no intention of trying this with my own vehicle - it's just something I've heard mentioned and am curious about. If I still had my old beater I might consider it, but not on my baby.

A buddy of mine has heard that farmers use this trick to keep the motors on their equipment clean where, during each oil change, they fill the crankcase with transmission fluid, let it run for a while or drive it for 10-100 miles, then change it out with fresh motor oil and replace the filter.

The idea is that transmissions have a much lower tolerance for contaminants than engines do, and out of necessity, transmission fluid does a much better job of picking up particles of dirt and carrying them to the filter.

Is there any truth to this or is it just a whacked-out wives' tale? It makes sense, but at the same time, I'm not a chemist
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It's been discussed here before, old timers have used the trick. I would avoid doing it, there are other safer, better ways to clean an engine.

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