Greatest idea I have

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Haha. We had someone wreck a customers 2021 Charger about a month ago I wasn’t there for it but I seen the pictures. He was transporting it to the detail shop at the lot that’s one town over and a lady cut him off on the interstate and he plowed into them. It was a pretty blue charger lol. When I told my dad I wanted a Challenger or Jeep Wrangler or Charger he was like uhh what has this new job taught you? The only requirements I have is real key and manual transmission. The Charger I would accept an automatic though.
My new car has a real key.
No push button. I did you proud.lol
 
Haha. We had someone wreck a customers 2021 Charger about a month ago I wasn’t there for it but I seen the pictures. He was transporting it to the detail shop at the lot that’s one town over and a lady cut him off on the interstate and he plowed into them. It was a pretty blue charger lol. When I told my dad I wanted a Challenger or Jeep Wrangler or Charger he was like uhh what has this new job taught you? The only requirements I have is real key and manual transmission. The Charger I would accept an automatic though.
Dodge hasn’t used “real” keys in quite a few years, they switched to the FOBIK ones before putting a push button in everything around 2013-2014.

The 8 speed auto’s are glorious though.
 
A much more reliable engine is 2.3 liter from the Volvo 850's turbo cars. They can be modify very easily and make tons of power.
 
I am now saving up as much money as possible for the best motor swap ever:

I want to put this vw 2.5 engine:

View attachment 63308

into one of these:


View attachment 63309

Many of you think im CRAZY putting an underpowered engine into one of these jeep wranglers, but hear me out:
I will modify the engine to run on one to two turbochargers, rebuild the engine or use a salvage audi 2.5 engine that is already turbocharged, putting out a decent amount of hp and torque.

Combined with a manual transmission, I will have a unique jeep.

Why do you think I want to do this?
I hate American vehicles except the Dodge ram trucks, but this jeep look very nice!
the 2.5 is more reliable than these American hemi engines.

Don't tell me you dont love the SOUND of the 2.5! Its a great engine with a great sound.

It will take alot of time to do this engine swap, all the electronics I will need to adjust alongside with making the interior look as clean as possible, but in the end, I think it will pay off for itself.

I could possibly find one of these late model wranglers with a blown up engine anyways.

First thing to do this build: get money
Second thing: find junk wrangler
Third thing: get totaled audi 2.5 turboed car or a jetta 2.5 with all the electricals.
Fourth thing: swap begins

1. The Wrangler hasn't traditionally had the HEMI, so there's issue number 1. The engine most often found under the hood is probably the Pentastar at this juncture, which is quite reliable, being on Ward's Best Engines 7 times since 2011. The very recent 392 version has the 6.4L HEMI, but that's not what you'd be shopping; you aren't buying a $75,000 Jeep and pulling the 475HP 6.4L to put in a 2.5L VAG mill.

2. the 6.2L will make more power stock than you'll ever be able to wrestle out of that 2.5L. A Hellcat swap is a lot more viable than this abomination, given that the vehicle is setup for RWD/4WD (longitudinal mount) vs the traverse setup that the VW swap would likely be designed for.

3. Not sure where your 2.5 is more reliable trope is coming from. I don't recall VAG selling a fleet of 1/2, 1-ton and 3/4 ton trucks using the 2.5L. The odd HEMI will experience lifter failure, but compared to the number sold, it is generally uncommon. The HEMI has also been on the Ward's list a pile of times from 2003 onward.
 
Dodge hasn’t used “real” keys in quite a few years, they switched to the FOBIK ones before putting a push button in everything around 2013-2014.
I know, it’s disappointing. That’s why I need to find one of the police cars from the department around here because they have theirs ordered with real keys because my neighbors daughter is the one who orders them all. They make them special for the police or at least they were using the real keys for the crusiers when I asked about it a few years ago around 2018 or so.
 
I know, it’s disappointing. That’s why I need to find one of the police cars from the department around here because they have theirs ordered with real keys because my neighbors daughter is the one who orders them all. They make them special for the police or at least they were using the real keys for the crusiers when I asked about it a few years ago around 2018 or so.

The last Mopars I saw with "keys" were the Mercedes style fob, probably what the police cars have.

FBK107R-MAIN1-768x863.jpg
 
Volkswagon and reliable don't belong in the same sentence unless there's a "un" before it.


but really, the jeeps are already underpowered with the 3.6, swapping it out for a 2.5 is gonna make the torque even lower.

is personally go for a 3.0 v6 TDI motor, just for Greta ;)
as boring and commonplace as it is... the real answer for decent power, reliability, and parts availability, is an LS swap. Maybe a Ford Modular.
 
1. The Wrangler hasn't traditionally had the HEMI, so there's issue number 1. The engine most often found under the hood is probably the Pentastar at this juncture, which is quite reliable, being on Ward's Best Engines 7 times since 2011. The very recent 392 version has the 6.4L HEMI, but that's not what you'd be shopping; you aren't buying a $75,000 Jeep and pulling the 475HP 6.4L to put in a 2.5L VAG mill.

2. the 6.2L will make more power stock than you'll ever be able to wrestle out of that 2.5L. A Hellcat swap is a lot more viable than this abomination, given that the vehicle is setup for RWD/4WD (longitudinal mount) vs the traverse setup that the VW swap would likely be designed for.

3. Not sure where your 2.5 is more reliable trope is coming from. I don't recall VAG selling a fleet of 1/2, 1-ton and 3/4 ton trucks using the 2.5L. The odd HEMI will experience lifter failure, but compared to the number sold, it is generally uncommon. The HEMI has also been on the Ward's list a pile of times from 2003 onward.
I looked at the specifications and found that the engine they use and the audi 2.5 have similar hp and torque regarding the lower power engine on the jeep wrangler.

Yes they are traverse but a couple custom engine mounts should do the job regarding that.

I want to do this swap for the uniqueness.
It might be an abomination, but after a long day I just want to open the hood and admire a vag engine in an American automobile.
 
Vw Jetta 2011 2.5 - 15w40 (totaled ): ) , Vw Jetta 2014 2.0 - 15w40 , 2020 toyota camry - 20w50 , Honda odessey 2006 - 5w20, Panzerkampfwagen VI Ausf E - 10w30 Motul VW 501.00 spec, still in warranty.

^^Looking at your sig I see you're a thickie (y). How come a thin W-20 in the Oddy?🤔
 
I looked at the specifications and found that the engine they use and the audi 2.5 have similar hp and torque regarding the lower power engine on the jeep wrangler.

Yes they are traverse but a couple custom engine mounts should do the job regarding that.

I want to do this swap for the uniqueness.
It might be an abomination, but after a long day I just want to open the hood and admire a vag engine in an American automobile.

Dude, it's a heck of a lot more than just a couple of engine mounts. You'll need a trans or trans adapter that mates up to this particular mill longitudinally, probably an adapter plate and flywheel, perhaps a custom input shaft on the trans for the length. Possibly a custom clutch and then the throwout bearing, slave cylinder and actuator assembly, and this assumes you can use the FCA brackets, if not, you'll need those fabbed-up too.

You'll need a complete engine management setup, which I assume you've never played with before. The FCA vehicle harness and BCM likely won't be usable so you'll mostly likely be best served wiring up your own gauge cluster, infotainment and light controls as well as for anything else electronic on the vehicle, like diff lock.

The Audi engine likely uses the PCM to control the alternator, so you are in for a Ford 3G or GM 1-wire swap, which will involve some adapter plate fabrication to line-up with the belt(s). If the Audi engine is DI, that's a whole other ball of wax that I've never messed with in swaps, which have all been port injection or carb and usually within the same brand.

This all assumes you are going to go with a SAEM setup and not try and jerry rig the majority of the VAG wiring harness, BCM, ECM...etc and other controls into the FCA chassis.

There are kits for engines like the LSx, SBC, SBF and HEMI that have stand-alone engine management for putting them in hot rods and the like. No such beast exists for engines that aren't commonly swapped for that purpose however. This is a massive undertaking, and if you aren't familiar with the fundamentals of any of this stuff, you'll be paying other people and expensive won't even begin to describe it at that point.
 
You might have to cut the front frame section ( sometimes called cross member ) from the engine donor vehicle and install it and the engine mounts in the recipient. You will have to remove the front section that holds the engine mounts from the recipient, and then weld in the section from the donor. Trany mounts might require some transfer of ability to mount also.

Then there is the fun of getting the driveshaft the correct length, and it may require a shop that specializes in drive shafts to get the phasing of the yokes and balance correct for the drive shaft. You do not just randomly shorten the driveshaft. You at least have to keep the yokes both at the same rotation phasing. Drive shafts seem simple, but sometimes there are a few things to consider that only a professional knows what to look for and what to do.
 
Dude, it's a heck of a lot more than just a couple of engine mounts. You'll need a trans or trans adapter that mates up to this particular mill longitudinally, probably an adapter plate and flywheel, perhaps a custom input shaft on the trans for the length. Possibly a custom clutch and then the throwout bearing, slave cylinder and actuator assembly, and this assumes you can use the FCA brackets, if not, you'll need those fabbed-up too.

You'll need a complete engine management setup, which I assume you've never played with before. The FCA vehicle harness and BCM likely won't be usable so you'll mostly likely be best served wiring up your own gauge cluster, infotainment and light controls as well as for anything else electronic on the vehicle, like diff lock.

The Audi engine likely uses the PCM to control the alternator, so you are in for a Ford 3G or GM 1-wire swap, which will involve some adapter plate fabrication to line-up with the belt(s). If the Audi engine is DI, that's a whole other ball of wax that I've never messed with in swaps, which have all been port injection or carb and usually within the same brand.

This all assumes you are going to go with a SAEM setup and not try and jerry rig the majority of the VAG wiring harness, BCM, ECM...etc and other controls into the FCA chassis.

There are kits for engines like the LSx, SBC, SBF and HEMI that have stand-alone engine management for putting them in hot rods and the like. No such beast exists for engines that aren't commonly swapped for that purpose however. This is a massive undertaking, and if you aren't familiar with the fundamentals of any of this stuff, you'll be paying other people and expensive won't even begin to describe it at that point.
I am making a list and plan on all of this. I do understand it's more than just engine mounts. No worries
 
as boring and commonplace as it is... the real answer for decent power, reliability, and parts availability, is an LS swap. Maybe a Ford Modular.

Summit Racing @ Arlington had a 7.3L Ford Gas truck motor on display the other day, It's just about as compact as LSx/LTx engines. Any OHC 90° V engine is going to be a real tight fit.
 
You might have to cut the front frame section ( sometimes called cross member ) from the engine donor vehicle and install it and the engine mounts in the recipient. You will have to remove the front section that holds the engine mounts from the recipient, and then weld in the section from the donor. Trany mounts might require some transfer of ability to mount also.

Then there is the fun of getting the driveshaft the correct length, and it may require a shop that specializes in drive shafts to get the phasing of the yokes and balance correct for the drive shaft. You do not just randomly shorten the driveshaft. You at least have to keep the yokes both at the same rotation phasing. Drive shafts seem simple, but sometimes there are a few things to consider that only a professional knows what to look for and what to do.

He's planning on swapping an FWD (traverse) engine into a 4WD (longitudinal) vehicle. The driveshaft will be the least of his worries, He won't be able to use the transaxle from the donor vehicle, he'll need to retain the OEM transmission, because it will be mated to the transfer case. He'll need to rig something up to adapt the Jeep transmission to the Audi engine, the details of which I got into a bit in my post.
 
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