Got A New Flashlight...

The problem is not the manual but may be my ability to count? I am not even able to consistently get the light in to voltage check mode which is one of the easiest key sequence :-( If I try to get in to voltage check mode, I succeed about 50% of the time. Other 50%, the light interprets as if I did 4C instead of 3C (or may be I did 4C) and gets in to lockout mode.

One of the "suggestion" given to me was just take the sources, make the changes, solder new headers on the light, and then reprogram the light. Yes that solution was given in complete sincerity in the "other" forum.
 
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The problem is not the manual but may be my ability to count? I am not even able to consistently get the light in to voltage check mode which is one of the easiest key sequence :-( If I try to get in to voltage check mode, I succeed about 50% of the time. Other 50%, the light interprets as if I did 4C instead of 3C (or may be I did 4C) and gets in to lockout mode.
Unless you have a motor disability, executing these key sequences should not be hard at all. I am wondering if there is something wrong with your particular light/switch.
 
Finally set the thermal limit!!

Next project:- set floor and ceiling and steps in Ramp Config
What did you set your thermal limit to?

I have the Sofirn IF25A (very similar light to your TS21), and I set mine to 65°C. Probably useless to have it set that high, frankly, because it heats up very quickly with those 4 diodes, and gets too hot to hold.

But boy does it put out some lumens on turbo, especially now that I installed a high current drain battery (Molicell P42A - capable of 35 amps of current continuous)!
 
I think it is 60 but I am very bad at counting! The light instantly starts warming up, like in a second or two if I put it in Turbo. I have lots of lights which have those cute "warning HOT" symbol but this is the 1st one which get hot so fast. It is as if there is a gas burner inside!

I did manage to set the floor to 1 and increased the number of steps. Wasted an hour or so trying to configure "Ramp Extras Menu" option #3 to keep at floor when 1H is pressed from OFF but apparently this firmware is from 2021-06 and that feature did NOT exist then. I will learn to live with it. I guess not all Anduril 2.0 are created equal!

My tip? Find out the firmware version of the Anduril 2.0 light first if you want all of the latest features.

To be completely honest, 3500 lumens is like car headlight! Do you really need that in a handheld flashlight? Of course, we need 20,000 lumens :)

Who has this one? Pete, this should be your next pruchase!

 
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What did you set your thermal limit to?

I have the Sofirn IF25A (very similar light to your TS21), and I set mine to 65°C. Probably useless to have it set that high, frankly, because it heats up very quickly with those 4 diodes, and gets too hot to hold.

But boy does it put out some lumens on turbo, especially now that I installed a high current drain battery (Molicell P42A - capable of 35 amps of current continuous)!
I set my if25a to 55C, I think I may need to rethink that once I'm not wearing my winter gloves regularly. It is nice on cold night for now.
 
I set my if25a to 55C, I think I may need to rethink that once I'm not wearing my winter gloves regularly. It is nice on cold night for now.
Yeah, I carry mine on nighttime runs, and, with that active cooling of freezing air going by, it’ll run on turbo as long as the battery will last without stepping down!

It’s my favorite light to take on night runs because the beam pattern, nice and floody but also with some throw, is perfect for illuminating my path. I also use the bike flasher feature when I’m running on a busy highway.

I also really like the color temp of this light (4000K).

My SP35 (SST-40) has some green tint to it in the lower settings, especially, but I can’t find anything bad about the SST-20s in the IF25A.

Speaking of nighttime running, my Sofirn HS40 headlamp came in! It seems really nice. Came with an 18350 battery tube (I need to buy an 18350 battery), pocket clip, headband, magnetic tailcap, and a Sofirn-branded 3000mAh 18650 battery. The color tint looks pretty good. This must be a little warmer version of the SST-40 in this one - it looks to be closer to neutral white than my 6500K SP35. And it’s a shallower reflector with orange peel, unlike the smooth reflector on my SP35.
 
Just saw new Wurkkos coupons in the BLF. They are listing WK30 for $25 (a great price!) and also have good coupon for the 18650 dual LED headlight with the 18350 tube included.
 
I mean this one; I had a typo
Finally received this via slow boat from China. For about $10, it is a good light. There are never any good zoomies but this one is good and has lots of features for the price. The only thing odd about it is that USB-C socket is recessed too much but the included cable does work. My USB-C from PowerAdd power bank triple connector does NOT fit. The charging via USB-C is slow though (about 0.3A) Has decent quality lanyard with quick disconnect and cinch adjustment, pocket clip, magnetic tail cap, very good tint, great zooming capability, 3mode Hi-Med-Low with memory. The mode change is by long press which is nice. It came with Sofirn 3000mAh battery which I understand is decent. Even has two leds in the e-switch which lights up to show the current battery level. The light is NOT beefy (you will NOT mistake it for a Convoy!) I would say it is average but much better than other $10 lights except the recommended PeetPen but only if you managed to snag it for $10 instead of its normal price.

In a nutshell, highly recommended and a great light both as useful novelty (zoomie with good tint) and for gifting if I had few more.

The zoom is good and does NOT have sharp cutoff and zoomed in is even better as it becomes more throwy but maintains the spill. The hotspot is like normal light when fully zoomed in. The zooming is by twisty action and it will maintain the position but the light would be little longer when zoomed in.

If you buy it, please let me know your impressions. I am amazed at what flashlight can get these days at such ridiculously cheap prices. Falling off the wagon has been fun so far :)
 
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It even has few other goodies

From off, direct access to 2C-High 3C-Strobe 4C-Lockout
From off, 1H moon mode.
From ON 1H cycles through low-med-high-low-mid-high-etc

Moon mode is NOT memorized but 2C to high is memorized which looks like a bug. The USB-C cover and the switch have very similar feel, so good chance of trying to press the UBC-C cover and realizing nothing is happening. I just keep the pocket clip rotated such that all my lights with the side switch have the same orientation, so I can always find the switch on those lights. Oh, the quick disconnect lanyard end was already attached to the tailcap which was nice and saved my eyes trying to thread it through the tiny hole. Threads are anodized, so a slight twist of the tailcap can lock it out.

You can imagine that I am liking my purchase. It was long time in coming and I had almost forgot about it, so pleasant surprise when the packet was delivered by USPS. That is part of fun of ordering from Ali Express or other Chinese store. By the time it eventually shows up, it brightens your day!
 
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I did a bit of testing of My PeetPen L21 last night, using one of my 2013 era Panasonic NCR18650b, to which I added a dollop of solder to the + to make it work as a button top, back then. This was more to test the remaining capacity of the battery than any in depth review of its capabilities.

I downloaded a Lux app for my smart phone, and stood the L21 on its endcap pointing at popcorn ceiling, on high, and when cold it was measurng 24lux with phone flat on table next to L21.

In about 10 minutes as the light got hot, this lowered to 15lux and basically stayed there until the battery was drained to sub 3 volts. The light had gone dopwn to 11 Lux in the 3v range. had taken out the battery and it was 3.03, and returned it and put it back on high, 15lux, but within minute it was flashing 3 times, and then shut off.

I recharged the panasonic cell inside the Peetpen, using my USB meter to count mAH. 2915mAH.

I am not sure how much of those mAH were turned to heat during the conversion from ~5v to 4.2v within the light, but this ncr18650 cell has took more than double the mAH of the cell provided with the PeetPenL21.

My cheapo 2 for 10$ headlamp measured 1 lux on the table next to the L21. It/they consistently requires between 600 and 700 mah to go from dim uselessness to 'Full' they draw ~250ma or so with a 4.1x volt battery and last about 2.5 hours. It will shut off somewhere below 2.91 volts. It's actually a good candidate for a better battery, and might get the ~ 1400mah peetpen L21 provided battery which claims 1800mah

The '1200mAH' 18650 battery I removed from my portable BT speaker degraded quickly when cycling it in my ancient HF led headlamp designed for 3 AAA batteries in series, dropping to 3 volts nearly instantly under the 120ma load. I decided to drain it fully by leaving the light on. 3 days later it was still glowing, and still measured 2.32v. I then gave up trying to drain it dead and will recycle it as is.

The BT speaker when new, in 2017, would last ~5.5 hours at full volume on its internal included 18650 battery, but late last year was incapable of maintaining full volume after about 2 hours at full volume, and would randomly shut off. The Micro usb charging input also failed at this time. I added an external 18650 cell holder to the side of the BT speaker, and with the Panasonic 3400mah cell, after ~ 8 hours at full volume and it still reads 3.89v.
I could replace this speaker for under 20$, but.....I could fix it for the cost of some solder heatshrink and a 43 cent 18650 holder.
20220116_152037.jpg

I am happy my 2013 era Panasonic NCR18650B cells still have so much of their capacity remaining, and have significantly more capacity than the cells provided with modern devices. I know they are not high drain cells, and could not power my Olight H2r on high for very long, certainly not turbo, and I would not even venture to try turbo on my Armytek Wizard c2 pro max with the 18650 adapter.

I saw on BLF, this:


and for 9$, could not resist. Should arrive tomorrow.
 
I am not sure how much of those mAH were turned to heat during the conversion from ~5v to 4.2v within the light, but this ncr18650 cell has took more than double the mAH of the cell provided with the PeetPenL21.
Yes, using my Lii-500 analyzing charger, the discharge capacity of this PeetPen cell is about half of Panasonic 18650B.
 
These analyzing chargers, what voltage do they drain the cell down to? Kind of wondering if there is more accuracy with such a charger, than my method of using the cell in a device until LVP kicks in, then measuring the mAH via USB when recharging.

I am considering getting a new charger with a better display and that can fit 21700 cells, as my nitecore I4 V2 cant take them, and only has 3 flashing lights indicating charge level. I could likely modify one slot of my Nitecore charger to take a 21700 cell. but I only have one such cell.
 
These analyzing chargers, what voltage do they drain the cell down to?
Varies by charger. The Lii-500 takes it down to about 2.9V. Here is a full review:

I am considering getting a new charger with a better display and that can fit 21700 cells, as my nitecore I4 V2 cant take them, and only has 3 flashing lights indicating charge level. I could likely modify one slot of my Nitecore charger to take a 21700 cell. but I only have one such cell.
Take a look at Vapcell S4+. It's an analyzing charger with good display and fits cells up to 77mm long.

This one takes the cell down to 2.6V during discharge test.

 
Varies by charger. The Lii-500 takes it down to about 2.9V. Here is a full review:


Take a look at Vapcell S4+. It's an analyzing charger with good display and fits cells up to 77mm long.

This one takes the cell down to 2.6V during discharge test.

I bought the Vapcell. I’ve had it for a couple of weeks now and no issues.

Haven’t tried the analyzation feature, as all my batteries are new.
 
My Nitecore D2 charger just barely manages to squeeze in a flat-top 21700 I am also in the market for a better charger/analyzer. But I am wondering if the BLF will ever see the light of day and is holding off. I mean I managed to live without that type of charger for so log :)

I do have a fancy old style RC hobby charger but it is pain to use. All my attempts to solder magnate to wire were dismal failures.
 
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