Deleted
Gorilla Glue Q?
- Thread starter BlueOvalFitter
- Start date
They don't sell my size (14 EW).
Or Ace Hardware, seriously I had bought a pair of crocs and the dam pivot ripped out of the main body. Shoe Goo worked, and still is holding. Prepped with 90% alcohol.
I have a pair of Skechers as my back up pair but they need some fixin' up too.No Goodwill stores nearby that sell $5 or $10 shoes? Chin up m'boy, things will pick up soon.
If it was funny, PM me, I can take it.
No! Actually my wife recently bought some glue for her sneaker when we were in Walmart I posted then deleted because I can’t be 100% of the brand but it did mention for rubber soles ect.
I thought it was a type of Gorilla but couldn’t be sure
I haven't bought a new pair of tennis shoes since 2015.
I have 1 more reserve pair of shoes. They're Red Wing hiking type boots ($192 back then). I bought them in December 2010 before my accident in 2011. I had to retire, but the RW's are in excellent shape. And they're American made!
I have 1 more reserve pair of shoes. They're Red Wing hiking type boots ($192 back then). I bought them in December 2010 before my accident in 2011. I had to retire, but the RW's are in excellent shape. And they're American made!
Probably similar to HH-66, also a urethane-based adhesive. But both of these fully are reacted urethanes dissolved in a solvent. Applying heat or a solvent to the bond will make it come apart and they don't bond well to some materials.
For a urethane adhesive that chemically cures, remains flexible, bonds better to some materials, and isn't affected by heat or solvents, use McNett's Seam Grip or Aquaseal. It's a PTMEG polyurethane prepolymer that's dissolved in toluene. (PTMEG prepolymers are solid at room temp unless dissolved in a solved). It moisture cures. The difference between Seam Grip and Aquaseal is that Aquaseal has more prepolymer and less solvent so it's thicker.
Another option if HH-66 (or likely the Barge product too) won't bond well is to add about 5% by weight of the original formula brown Gorilla Glue to it and mix it well. Don't add it to the whole can, just an amount you'll be able to use within half an hour. After that time the Gorilla Glue will have reacted and made it very thick. The resulting bond seems to be more resistant to heat and solvents, too. With such a small amount of Gorilla Glue it remains flexible and it won't foam up as it cures.
The big bottle of GG reads to dampen the area 1st, apply the glue, then clamp it and wait 24 hours. What does dampening do for it?
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I have glued everyone's shoes around here for years. "Shoe goo" or "Loctite Vinyl Fabric & Plastic Repair". It needs to stay flexible or it won't hold. Both of those do. Usually outlasts the rest of the shoe.
It cures by moisture, so dampening the surface helps it cure faster.
The original formula gorilla glue has the same instructions. I have never found it necessary to dampen the surface to make the original formula gorilla glue cure, but for some reason I'm always working with it in the summer when it's more humid...
...in the winter when it's dry dampening the surface might be required.
Also, I suppose, if you are bonding two non-porous surfaces, you'd want to dampen them.
Looking at the SDS for Clear Gorilla Glue it appears to be silane modified polymer. This is a sort of a cross between silicone and polyurethane which is supposed to have better properties than either.
Silane modified polymer has mostly been used for sealants/caulks like DAP AMP and Chemlink. Not many adhesives on the market using it. Silane modified polymers are moisture-curing, like silicones and polyurethanes. (Polyurethanes can also be cured with polyols and amines, as is done when they are 2-component formulations, like automotive paint and molding rubbers).
Silane modified polymer has mostly been used for sealants/caulks like DAP AMP and Chemlink. Not many adhesives on the market using it. Silane modified polymers are moisture-curing, like silicones and polyurethanes. (Polyurethanes can also be cured with polyols and amines, as is done when they are 2-component formulations, like automotive paint and molding rubbers).
You yes. The mods? Maybe not.
And I don't throw my old pairs out, at least not until they are really falling apart.
Does anyone know if there are screws or bolts made to fix a repair like mine?
I have actually welded PVC and fused it together (with hot plates). I bet I can weld my shoes that way...........
Now Pyrex, that's a totally different animal!
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The soles are rubber - no? I don't think you can weld rubber like you can plastic?Does anyone know if there are screws or bolts made to fix a repair like mine?
I have actually welded PVC and fused it together. I bet I can weld my shoes that way...........
Now Pyrex, that's a totally different animal!
I think screws would be a bad idea on a tennis shoe.
The ones I have had the soul come apart was too little glue from the factory. If the factory uses glue I assume that's the most efficient method?
Does anyone know if there are screws or bolts made to fix a repair like mine?
I have actually welded PVC and fused it together. I bet I can weld my shoes that way...........
Now Pyrex, that's a totally different animal!
When I needed a shoe repair (sole started coming off) I used Polytek Poly 75-80 polyurethane molding rubber but I already had some for another project. Otherwise it's not worth it, even the smallest container of it starts at $30 (from a reseller who repackages it from larger containers). It's a shore hardness 80, 2 part polyurethane that starts setting up in 10 minutes or so.
But it fixed that shoe and the repair lasted at least another year or two till I was ordered by my sister to get new shoes
I think you'd get similar results with the McNett Seam Grip or Aquaseal products. They won't cure as fast though.
Yeah, I'm just kidding.
When the insulators insulated some of our chill water pipe at work, they would use a black foam insulation. They used a very toxic smelling yellow glue. It looked like the old 3M gasket adhesive/sealant I used around the water jacket part of the gaskets on an intake manifold. I bet that stuff would fix my shoe.
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Only on this website can you come along and say "my shoe broke so I fixed it with some industrial Polyurethane rubber I just happened to have around", and everyone finds this normal
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