German Castrol 0w-30 at Autozone

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Originally Posted By: boundarylayer
I'd guess the OP will get lower wear in those ageing Mazdas switching to 0w-30, along with less deposits and sludge, given all the Mercedes tests that oil passed.

Maybe if he runs that oil for 10-15K miles, like the standard Mercedes interval.

But then again, there are plenty other low HT/HS oils that claim to support extended drains as well.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
5 year old thread......
I'm trying to remember the car I owned in 2009.

I remember. It was a Chartreuse microbus you drove in a convoy. Remember now?
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: boundarylayer
I'd guess the OP will get lower wear in those ageing Mazdas switching to 0w-30, along with less deposits and sludge, given all the Mercedes tests that oil passed.

Maybe if he runs that oil for 10-15K miles, like the standard Mercedes interval.
But then again, there are plenty other low HT/HS oils that claim to support extended drains as well.


Sludge/deposits are layed down on a grams/revolution basis, so you get less with a higher quality oil like GC 0w-30. Always a good idea to use that oil. You could do fine with Castrol Extended, available for cheap at wally-world, yet you can't go wrong with GC 0w-30.
 
GC is fine for any application.
I've used it in a couple of our Accords as well as our Forester.
It is a thick oil, which makes it a quiet oil.
Fuel consumption on GC won't increase enough that you'll notice.
I write this as someone who tracks every tank of fuel in every car we've ever owned.
I can, for example, give you good figures on the fuel consumption of an '86 Civic Wagon on M1 15W-50, or a '76 MGB on dino 10W-40.
Is a Vanagon with the air cooled Type IV more economical on an HD30 or a 10W-40?
I'm not sure.
I'd have to go back and look at the logs for that long departed vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
GC is fine for any application.
I've used it in a couple of our Accords as well as our Forester.
It is a thick oil, which makes it a quiet oil.
Fuel consumption on GC won't increase enough that you'll notice.


Given the studies I've looked at over the years, there might be about a 2% fuel economy benefit between GC 0w-30 and a light 0w-20 GF-5 Sequence VID RC oil. HTHS goes from 2.6 to 3.5, so there is something there, plus an RC 0w-20 might have additional friction modifiers.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
I,m not trying to destroy a camry, im just learning
And those weren't the wrong plugs, they just don't last as long


eXACTly....and if you ran them for the STANDARD time frame specified by Toyota you would be WRONG...which you might have done if you hadn't asked if they were the right plugs...mayby not damaging the Camry, but preventing it from working optimally (e.g. best MPG...something you always ask about)...

You would avoid this by sticking to Toyota specified parts as recommended...but you don't want to, and seem to refuse to...don't kid yourself into thinking that by constantly looking for alternatives to Toyota's recommended parts that you're learning what are the best options for the car...you're only adding to the list of wrong alternatives...you're only learning WHAT NOT TO DO...and that is a never-ending journey...enjoy that road if that's where you want to go down...
 
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There must be some real difference, but I don't think its 2%.
I track every tank of fuel for every vehicle, and I would have noticed a consistent 2% change in a 30+ mpg vehicle.
That would amount to more than .6 mpg, which would be enough to notice over a number of tanks and miles.
OTOH, we almost never short-trip our cars, so they are typically fully warmed up on every cold start.
 
E20, in the 200+ post in 5 weeks of being a member you've contributed nothing to this site and have made a joke of trolling people. Granted I haven't contributed much either but I do a good job of utilizing the search function. GC has its own topic with dozens of pages of useful information. Pick a oil, provide some feedback, conducted a UOA.....just be proactive
 
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
5 year old thread......
I'm trying to remember the car I owned in 2009.

I remember. It was a Chartreuse microbus you drove in a convoy. Remember now?


I've never gotten the impression that SilverC6 is a hippie friend of Jesus.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
So gc causes less sludgr than the regular black bottle or us castrol edge formerly syntec?


Neither will cause any sludge if you change at reasonable intervals and your engine is in good, working condition (i.e. no coolant ingestion, PCV issues, etc.)
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
So gc causes less sludgr than the regular black bottle or us castrol edge formerly syntec?

I don't think there is any evidence of that.
 
Slightly off topic, but while we're on GC. I picked up 2 bottles of Castrol straight 30 last Spring for my Snapper rider. Plain old white bottle 'Made in USA'. Changed the oil and 1st bottle was honey colored as usual. Opened the 2nd bottle and almost dropped it when it poured out green. What's with that?
 
Originally Posted By: chrly919
Slightly off topic, but while we're on GC. I picked up 2 bottles of Castrol straight 30 last Spring for my Snapper rider. Plain old white bottle 'Made in USA'. Changed the oil and 1st bottle was honey colored as usual. Opened the 2nd bottle and almost dropped it when it poured out green. What's with that?


Guess that means they were using the real synthetic base oils in the conventional bottles because they had extra.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: chrly919
Slightly off topic, but while we're on GC. I picked up 2 bottles of Castrol straight 30 last Spring for my Snapper rider. Plain old white bottle 'Made in USA'. Changed the oil and 1st bottle was honey colored as usual. Opened the 2nd bottle and almost dropped it when it poured out green. What's with that?


Guess that means they were using the real synthetic base oils in the conventional bottles because they had extra.


Or it could also be just a production error. Wrong stuff inside. Known to happen during product change-overs. Some how the last empty labeled cans from the previous filling was left on the line and filled by mistake on the next. Depending on the filling line itself this kind of error is possible if the color of the can remains the same between batches and labels are almost identical.
 
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