Gas Range Reliability

You keep your induction; I'll keep my gas, thank you.
Me too for the cook top. I like electric oven as the temp control is more even. Still using a 1959 Hotpoint electric built in. Had to replace the element once. And modify the temperature control knob so it better reflected the actual temperature.
 
OK, How does an induction oven work? We have gas stoves at both our homes and gas water heaters. Falling trees in ice storms don't take out gas lines and propane lines in my recollection. We had no power for 2 weeks. Lots of our family loved our home and water heater.
 
Nope. Waste heat accounts for the vast majority of energy generated by gas ranges. This is why there is not one scenario where gas ranges are more efficient. It's not possible.



The only knock against induction is cost and reliability.

Nobody here claimed a gas range was more efficient - including me.

Nearly everywhere you look will show that roughly 40% of the gas energy ends up in the cooking. For an induction unit , that goes to 80% (being generous). In a climate like where I live, the heat energy lost into the building isn't "lost" most of the year - since we heat from October to April more or less.

I did however claim that gas cooking is more economical in my location.

How? Electricity costs 3.8 times as much as natural gas for the same energy input in my location. Those are facts based on my current electrical rate and my last gas bill. Natural gas is used a primary heating source for much of the upper midwest for this exact reason (and if you are into saving money in the long run, for water heating and clothes drying too).

On top of that, the energy portfolio of my local utility is still dominated largely by coal, and will be for at least another 10 years. Last I checke, burning coal to make electricity doesn't exactly get the electric for everything folks that excited either...
 
Getting back to the OP's question regarding reliability of GAS ranges...the waters are a bit muddy here as the relatively recent boom of home improvement and upgraded kitchens has spawned the emergence of many new players in the gas range market. Whereas 20 years ago it was strictly Wolf, Viking, DCS(now Fisher-Paykel), Thermador...you now have Zline, Kucht, Thor Kitchen, Blue Star, NXR, Forno, Beko/Blomberg, Capital....to name a few. Some are European brands cashing in on the lucrative US market. Some are investment company creations mimicking the high end brands in appearance and some features with corners cut in production and likely designed in Germany or Italy and produced in China or Turkey. The reliability of some of these brands is established. For many, too soon to tell.
We have a circa 2002 DCS(pre Fisher-Paykel/ Haier) gas range in our beach house. It must weigh 350+lbs. Four burners and an oven with a light. It's a beast but in 11 years we've owned it...and it was in the house when we bought it, I've replaced an oven door hinge and an oven igniter.
For our most recent move in our primary home my wife picked out a Becko/Blomberg. Seems well made. No real electronics but not the quality of the old DCS.
Over the last 5-6 years and between 3 homes we have owned Frigidaire, LG, Electrolux(Frigidaire again), GE Cafe and now this Beko/Blomberg range.
The LG was basic. The Frigidaire dual oven was fine...too many electronics. The GE Cafe was a $3500 piece of garbage. The Fisher-Paykel was nice but had a main burner that would never light consistently. The Electrolux was OK but we sold it for the Beko/Blomberg.
One thing is for certain...the more electronics, the more that can and will go wrong.
 
For reference, looking back over the last year, electricity was 5.1 times more expensive here. Our current gas rates now include a rider to recover the costs of the January Texas grid failure and its impacts on spot gas pricing...

Most electrical utilities here are announcing proposed rate increases in the 10-20% range for next year...
 
Nobody here claimed a gas range was more efficient - including me.

Nearly everywhere you look will show that roughly 40% of the gas energy ends up in the cooking. For an induction unit , that goes to 80% (being generous). In a climate like where I live, the heat energy lost into the building isn't "lost" most of the year - since we heat from October to April more or less.

I did however claim that gas cooking is more economical in my location.

How? Electricity costs 3.8 times as much as natural gas for the same energy input in my location. Those are facts based on my current electrical rate and my last gas bill. Natural gas is used a primary heating source for much of the upper midwest for this exact reason (and if you are into saving money in the long run, for water heating and clothes drying too).

On top of that, the energy portfolio of my local utility is still dominated largely by coal, and will be for at least another 10 years. Last I checke, burning coal to make electricity doesn't exactly get the electric for everything folks that excited either...
Just because electricity is more expensive doesn't mean it would cost more to use induction over gas. You'd have to do the math. Obviously gas is cheaper to acquire as the tech hasn't changed in decades. So from a purely $$ sense gas would win out but we're not talking life changing savings. I have gas myself.
 
Must have missed the math - its in there. Induction is twice as efficient as gas. Electric versus gas for the past year (locally) was 5 times more expensive (when normalizing a kwh and Therm pricing).

So it still costs 2.5 times as much to run as natural gas (again, my local market pricing - others may vary), plus new pots and pans (at least some), plus the premium for the unit itself, plus rewiring for 220 in the kitchen since we are already plumbed for gas. Add on top running it all on a majority of coal power...

In regards to the actual topic, we have a 13+ year old Whirpool Gold gas unit. No repairs except replacing 1 light bulb in all the years we've owned it.

Without a kitchen remodel, and a change to where my electricity comes from, it won't be any day soon to switch from gas.
 
Getting back to the OP's question regarding reliability of GAS ranges...the waters are a bit muddy here as the relatively recent boom of home improvement and upgraded kitchens has spawned the emergence of many new players in the gas range market. Whereas 20 years ago it was strictly Wolf, Viking, DCS(now Fisher-Paykel), Thermador...you now have Zline, Kucht, Thor Kitchen, Blue Star, NXR, Forno, Beko/Blomberg, Capital....to name a few. Some are European brands cashing in on the lucrative US market. Some are investment company creations mimicking the high end brands in appearance and some features with corners cut in production and likely designed in Germany or Italy and produced in China or Turkey. The reliability of some of these brands is established. For many, too soon to tell.
We have a circa 2002 DCS(pre Fisher-Paykel/ Haier) gas range in our beach house. It must weigh 350+lbs. Four burners and an oven with a light. It's a beast but in 11 years we've owned it...and it was in the house when we bought it, I've replaced an oven door hinge and an oven igniter.
For our most recent move in our primary home my wife picked out a Becko/Blomberg. Seems well made. No real electronics but not the quality of the old DCS.
Over the last 5-6 years and between 3 homes we have owned Frigidaire, LG, Electrolux(Frigidaire again), GE Cafe and now this Beko/Blomberg range.
The LG was basic. The Frigidaire dual oven was fine...too many electronics. The GE Cafe was a $3500 piece of garbage. The Fisher-Paykel was nice but had a main burner that would never light consistently. The Electrolux was OK but we sold it for the Beko/Blomberg.
One thing is for certain...the more electronics, the more that can and will go wrong.
You should get an AGA stove. You don't turn it off, it's on all the time although the newer models let you shut it off. It takes days to cool off and about 8 hours to heat up if it was off. It weights over 800 pounds.

 
Because my house doesn't have a 200 Amp service.
You don't need a 200 amp service. It's the same as an electric stove, just the normal 40 amp outlet is all that's needed and I see those all the time even with a 100 amp service. It really only needs about 30 amps and that's only when you have all the burners on and the oven on, maybe that only happens during Thanksgiving/Christmas if at all. Maybe you're pushing it if you have a 60 amp service, but I still see 40 amp breakers on a 60 amp service. They just don't have anything else on there that draws that much power so it can still work.

 
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