FWD Volvo timing belt -- how hard?

[rationull]

The girlfriend's 1993 Volvo 850 (DOHC 2.4 liter 5 cylinder non-turbo) is about 8k miles away from needing a new timing belt. 1993 was the first year of the 850 in the US, and the first FWD Volvo ever in the US and it's got only a 50k timing belt interval.

I've got a bit of time to decide, but I'm debating whether to do it myself or take it to the local independent euro mechanic we've had work on it before. There are plenty of walkthroughs with pictures online so I'm not really worried about being able to figure out the procedure. I'm just not sure I want to do this kind of job on my own over a weekend.

The most major jobs I've done are the fuel injectors on my old 280zx (which is more major than it sounds, if you've ever seen the fuel rail Nissan cooked up for the L28E) and a couple radiators (including the one in the Volvo).

I'm assuming the key parts of the job will be managing to get the crank pulley off, dealing with the tight spacing between the tight spacing involved, and just being careful to keep everything aligned correctly.

So what are everyone's thoughts as to how bad timing belt jobs are? Obviously it varies per vehicle but I'm just fishing for general opinions as well as any that pertain to FWD Volvos with the 5 cyl engines specifically.

Pablo? Anyone?

 

[alanu]

The T belt routing is very tight compared to many makes I've ever done. The belt seems to require a methodical way of routing around the pulleys. Even with the tensioner backed off the belt is extremely tight to slip on. Volvo dealerships have special jigs so that the cam sprockets do not move when the T belt is off.

Its been a while since I've done one but make sure you replace any idler and tensioner pulleys. You better count the teeth on the Tbelt because theres a 143 or 148 version.

If you screw up the alignment of the crank and cam you may bend valves. I think that engine has got to be one of the worst turds I've ever worked on. They have integral cam bearings so the Valve cover acts as a cam bearing and the head is the other part of the bearing. You'll require a special tool to remove the valve cover since its glued together. You'll need a slide hammer tool to pull it apart. This is a great way to contribute to tendonitis in your elbow (seriously).

If the belt snaps on that motor you'll need to replace majority of the valves.

Honestly I would get it done at a volvo dealership or a shop that is VERY familiar with that car. That particular job requires more technical skills than a honda or ford Tbelt motors.

 

[bdcardinal]

ya im planning on having the dealer do the timing belt on my s60r when it comes time. im going to hae them replace the idler and tensioner, along with the water pump and thermostat. according to the fsm to remove the t-stat you have to take the timing cover off on my motor.

 

[rationull]

Hmm, interesting. this walkthrough implies that you do not need to remove the valve cover at all to replace the t-belt on the 850.

I definitely believe you about the tight routing. Not a lot of clearance in there and even the serp belt seemed to require some "strategizing". If it's going to be that much of a PITA and require special tools to avoid moving the cams maybe I will just take it in.

 

[rationull]

Originally Posted By: alanu
They have integral cam bearings so the Valve cover acts as a cam bearing and the head is the other part of the bearing.


Weird. I've noticed before and wondered why the valve cover is so short (vertically) on this engine.. I guess that's why. Does that at least make the camshafts really easy to change out or something?

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: rationull
So what are everyone's thoughts as to how bad timing belt jobs are?


If you have no mechanical aptitude and you can't follow instructions, don't attempt it.

How's that for encouragement?

 

[alanu]

Originally Posted By: rationull
Originally Posted By: alanu
They have integral cam bearings so the Valve cover acts as a cam bearing and the head is the other part of the bearing.


Weird. I've noticed before and wondered why the valve cover is so short (vertically) on this engine.. I guess that's why. Does that at least make the camshafts really easy to change out or something?


More than likely you'll never need to replace a camshaft in that engine. Pray the journal size is identical within spec IF you do. It really should'nt be a problem.

Its been a long time but I cannot stress how tight that tbelt fits even with the tensioner backed off. I had a Volvo technician visiting the shop I was working at and he even said it was a bugger.

 

[rationull]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

If you have no mechanical aptitude and you can't follow instructions, don't attempt it.

How's that for encouragement?

Hah! I'm not so much worried about mechanical aptitude or not being able to follow the instructions. More worried about taking up a whole weekend doing the job and thinking "I shoulda just paid the $xxx". Actually I haven't even gotten a quote yet since the job's still several months off.


Originally Posted By: alanu

More than likely you'll never need to replace a camshaft in that engine. Pray the journal size is identical within spec IF you do. It really should'nt be a problem.


I wasn't assuming I'd ever need to replace the camshafts, just trying to rationalize a good thing about their bearing setup. Good point about the journal size, though.

I appreciate your experience from the "trenches" very much. Like I said, the tight routing complaint is very believable on this car. Not much room when when you've got an inline-5 + auto transmission stuffed transversely in a car no wider than any other cars with 4 bangers of V6s. I can only imagine the [censored] you have to go through to replace the belt on the S80s with transverse straight sixes (if they haven't moved over to chains).