Full synthetic for Honda Odyssey older model(07)

[elisa7joy]

Okay full disclosure this is my first post here. I KNOW oil is a very intricate and highly debated aspect of engine performance, but I am still in the infancy of learning vehicle maintenance and repair so go easy on my naivete.

My question goes slightly deeper than what's the best brand/viscosity, but not that much deeper...

I own a 2007 Honda Odyssey 116000 bought in October at 112000.

When it was about time for the first oil change, I started getting this p2647 code which is related to the vvt oil pressure switch. After a day or so of reading online I finally went with the advice of change the oil see if it goes away. It worked, but then here I am at oil change 2 and it's happening again. Obv the part will need to be cleaned if not repaired, which is in the "to do" list.

My question is would changing to a lower viscosity full synthetic from 5w20 to 0w20 possibly prevent this issue from reoccuring?

The first oil change in this van I just went with a 5 quart Napa brand and napa filter, but now I'm wondering if I need to be a bit more choosy especially given the age of the vehicle and my having no knowledge of previous owners maintenance.....

A few more details that may or may not matter.... I run my van in idle almost as much as in drive, my driving is a fair combo of city and highway.


Look forward to seeing if anyone might have any input in this. Again, please remember I'm very new at all things vehicle related so what might be obvious to others might not be to me. Thanks!!

 

[wpod]

Changing the oil would be an easy thing to do syn or not syn. The viscosity difference no. What would cause that code to pop up ? wiring, clogged, screen bad part?

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

It’s not viscosity related, it’s because whoever owned it before used oils that have oxidized and gummed up the iVTEC solenoids. I’ve run 0w40 in an ‘06 Ody for a long time with no issues.

Buy a couple quarts of HPL EC30 from advlubrication.com (use coupon code BITOG15 for 15% off) and replace one quart per oil change with the HPL over your next few oil changes. It will safely and gently clean the gummed up areas, unless they’re already plugged so badly there’s zero flow (not likely since you say an OCI cleared the error for a short while).

Also, since you’re new: there is zero viscosity difference between a 5w20 and 0w20. They’re both 20 grade oils, and can be used interchangeably down to about -30*; after that, the 0w20 would be preferred for ease of cranking.

There are always a few minor differences, but just remember if the numbers after the W are the same, the oils are essentially the same viscosity at operating temps.

 

[shurguywutt]

Okay full disclosure this is my first post here. I KNOW oil is a very intricate and highly debated aspect of engine performance, but I am still in the infancy of learning vehicle maintenance and repair so go easy on my naivete.

My question goes slightly deeper than what's the best brand/viscosity, but not that much deeper...

I own a 2007 Honda Odyssey 116000 bought in October at 112000.

When it was about time for the first oil change, I started getting this p2647 code which is related to the vvt oil pressure switch. After a day or so of reading online I finally went with the advice of change the oil see if it goes away. It worked, but then here I am at oil change 2 and it's happening again. Obv the part will need to be cleaned if not repaired, which is in the "to do" list.

My question is would changing to a lower viscosity full synthetic from 5w20 to 0w20 possibly prevent this issue from reoccuring?

The first oil change in this van I just went with a 5 quart Napa brand and napa filter, but now I'm wondering if I need to be a bit more choosy especially given the age of the vehicle and my having no knowledge of previous owners maintenance.....

A few more details that may or may not matter.... I run my van in idle almost as much as in drive, my driving is a fair combo of city and highway.


Look forward to seeing if anyone might have any input in this. Again, please remember I'm very new at all things vehicle related so what might be obvious to others might not be to me. Thanks!!

Those J35s are solid. I have owned a few... How does it run? Are there any oil leaks? I had a 2008 Pilot and I believe there are front and rear bank vtec solenoid assy. that leak/go bad. There is a gasket and a screen in them as well as some Orings... Honda best practice is to REPLACE the whole part, not just the gaskets... I did the former and ended up having to do the latter anyway. LOL

Start getting used to these parts:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=variable valve timing (vvt solenoid&referer=v2

Also one is down by the oil filter (front bank), make sure you didn't mess with the plug or get oil on it when doing the oil change... Clean it up real good first and see if you can clear the code.

I used to change my oil every 5k and use synthetic xW-20/30. Being a used car with 100k on it (no history), some of my codes actually cleared with frequent oil changes.

 

[Furious]

The VVT oil control valve screen is likely clogged up and may have also damaged it, Any flush/cleaner will likely not work and could possibly make it worse as loosening more sludge and crud up could clog it even further. Switching oils will also not help.

Your best bet is to purchase the whole assembly, OEM preferably, at minimum you will have to replace the screen.

 

[Nukeman7]

It's likely a simple fix...just change out the VTEC solenoid screen gasket piece shown in the video below. Get the OEM part from Honda for ~$8. The aftermarket one from Dorman will leak. Also, only torque the 10mm bolts to OEM specifications which I think is ~9 ft./lbs...too much torque will split the gasket.

 

[nicholas]

Just replace the gasket and screen.

 

[Bill7]

I own 4 Honda Odyssey EX-L's all with VCM enabled of the same genrrstion:

2006: 131k miles.
2006: 177k miled
2007: 124k miles
2007: 136k miles.

The J35 V-6 engine are prone to sludge / varnish if you follow the maintenance minder on oil change intervals due to high engine temperatures on the front cylinder heads which cooks the oil.

To prevent this, I recommend doing 4k mile / 6 month (whichever comes first) oil change intervals with a low price full synthetic 5W-30 (not 5W-20).

To safely clean up any existing sludge/varnish, with every oil change
I have been using STP engine flush followed by the new oil consisting of:
3.5 quart low priced full synthetic 5W-30 + 1 quart HPL engine cleaner EC30.

My goal is to take each vehical to 300k miles.

I also do a drain/fill of the transmission fluid evety 20k miles.

 

[RyanY]

Lots of great advice above. Get the new solenoid from a legit Honda dealer (locally for higher $$ or online (bernardiparts.com, bkhondaparts.com, or majestichonda.com) for better $$). In case you are not aware, DO.NOT.BUY.HONDA.BRAND.PARTS.FROM.AMAZON.OR.EBAY. EVER. Lots of fake parts there.

Also, join odyclub.com and subscribe to your generation of Honda. The users post lots of useful info and tips.

 

[Bill7]

Lots of great advice above. Get the new solenoid from a legit Honda dealer (locally for higher $$ or online (bernardiparts.com, bkhondaparts.com, or majestichonda.com) for better $$). In case you are not aware, DO.NOT.BUY.HONDA.BRAND.PARTS.FROM.AMAZON.OR.EBAY. EVER. Lots of fake parts there.

Also, join odyclub.com and subscribe to your generation of Honda. The users post lots of useful info and tips.

Totally agree about Amazon and Ebay. I bought some A02 "genuine" Honda oil filters from Amazon, but noticed they looked slightly different than the ones I got from the Honda dealer. I decided not to use the filters and returned them.

 

[wlk]

Replace the screens and clean the solenoid, make sure the harnesses are not corroded and sealed on the top properly. Running the higher viscosity oil will not hurt them at all, I run 0/5w40 in my VTEC Element without issues.