Fuel Dilution "Burn-Off"

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I've spent far too much time wandering the internet trying to better understand the causes, effects and remedies for fuel dilution of engine oil, particularly in DI/TGDI engines. My Honda CRV is one of these and certainly has the issue.

One of the oft-repeated bits of advice here is that a periodic highway run will "burn-off" fuel that accumulates in the sump. The attached document from the State Of Michigan seems to partly refute this notion.

Most of us presume gasoline is a pretty uniform product and, as it's really flammable, should be volatile and evaporate quickly with any temperature, even when mixed with engine oil. But, as the attached table illustrates, gasoline has many different components that evaporate at different temperatures.

The purpose of this table is to point out seasonal variations in gas blends for Michigan's climate. But to me, the really important point is that, in most months, temperatures of 170-250F are needed to evaporate 50% of the fuel. And to evaporate 90%, temperatures greater than 365F are needed.

Given typical, fully-warmed up gasoline engine sump temperatures are maybe 200-225F, it seems to me that, even with lots of highway driving we'd be lucky to eliminate 1/2 of any fuel dilution. The remainder would stick around for the remainder of the OCI. Given this, dilution levels may not plateau at some point but could steadily increase over time, even with highway driving. As the text above the table says, some of the effects of higher evaporation temperatures are: "...increased deposits and dilution of engine oil".

I acknowledge I could have this wrong, but it is supported by my personal experience: even after a very long Interstate drive, my DI Honda still shows fuel dilution >5%. It seems to me the only real solution for owners of chronic fuel diluters is frequent oil changes.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 
Even if fuel "burns off" to some extent that would only be effective if the dilution was intermittent (cold weather, short trips, etc.) If your engine is continuously putting fuel into the oil then that's a different story.
 
You could hold out hope that the gas is lucky enough to cling to the drop of oil that gets splashed up on the underside of a piston which is plenty hot-- hot enough to flash the gas to vapor.

This seems like a perpetual motion machine, however, of new gas always making it into the oil.
 
Just run thicker oil to account for the thinning by fuel dilution.
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The most effective and cheap way of dealing with fuel dilution is to change the oil and shorten the OCI if it is chronic. I've been saying this for quite a long time now.
It especially important when the thin 0w20 oils are used as there is less safety margin for viscosity loss.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
The most effective and cheap way of dealing with fuel dilution is to change the oil and shorten the OCI if it is chronic. I've been saying this for quite a long time now.
It especially important when the thin 0w20 oils are used as there is less safety margin for viscosity loss.
This^^^^. + consider a Pela 650 oil extractor and extract the contamininated oil when the level starts dropping. It's easy to do. Leave the filter in place as it only holds about 3-5 ounces.
 
Good find. I've been curious about this too. If I'm reading this correctly, it looks like the testing is done with just fuel. It mentions oil dilution, but I think this test is really only applicable for clean fuel. In other words, I think it's only really applicable to the combustion side of the piston. I don't think the test proves that 50% of a fuel mix in the oil will evaporate during driving conditions that experience those related temperatures.

So I think this helps explain how cold starts and short trips can lead to fuel dilution (cold engines lead to unburnt fuel and that extra fuel then "drains" into the dark side), but I don't think it is an accurat test of how fuel behaves once mixed with oil. For example, on another forum I participate in one user that claims to have chemistry experience in the oil industry stated since fuel and oil can mix together the fuel will effectively become part of the oil and not remain a separate element in the system. I'm not a chemistry major, but this seems like a feasible theory.

Thoughts?
 
Originally Posted By: Onug
Good find. I've been curious about this too. If I'm reading this correctly, it looks like the testing is done with just fuel. It mentions oil dilution, but I think this test is really only applicable for clean fuel. In other words, I think it's only really applicable to the combustion side of the piston. I don't think the test proves that 50% of a fuel mix in the oil will evaporate during driving conditions that experience those related temperatures.

So I think this helps explain how cold starts and short trips can lead to fuel dilution (cold engines lead to unburnt fuel and that extra fuel then "drains" into the dark side), but I don't think it is an accurat test of how fuel behaves once mixed with oil. For example, on another forum I participate in one user that claims to have chemistry experience in the oil industry stated since fuel and oil can mix together the fuel will effectively become part of the oil and not remain a separate element in the system. I'm not a chemistry major, but this seems like a feasible theory.

Thoughts?


As gasoline is miscible (combining without separating) when mixed with with engine oil, I assumed the gasoline elements would simply become some of the lighter elements in the engine oil mixture and would then vaporize at the temperatures noted in the table. In the Noack volatility test, the lighter elements of engine oil are the first to volatize, so I thought the same process would apply here. But not a chemist either.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
The most effective and cheap way of dealing with fuel dilution is to change the oil and shorten the OCI if it is chronic. I've been saying this for quite a long time now.
It especially important when the thin 0w20 oils are used as there is less safety margin for viscosity loss.
This^^^^. + consider a Pela 650 oil extractor and extract the contamininated oil when the level starts dropping. It's easy to do. Leave the filter in place as it only holds about 3-5 ounces.


I have an extractor and have done this. It just seems wrong somehow when the "Intelligent" oil life monitor is saying there's 70-80% oil life remaining. And around here if you confess to a 3,000 mile OCI...
 
If you pour a little gasoline into an open container and leave it at ambient temperature for a day or two, the container will soon be empty.
 
A delivery driver here with one of those DI cars, a Mazda 3 had problems with fuel dilution as identified by lab results. He and his partners do drive all day and night but all his trips are very short. He handles documents and has to shut off the engine to make pickups and deliveries. He found a Frantz toilet paper oil filter and that ended the problem. When he changes the paper you can see little droplets on the top face of the TP. The lab results are now good at
His case might be a bit out of the ordinary. He and his partners (3) drive 7/24, about 100K a year on average.
 
An ICE is not a an open system so lighter fractions in the heated oil do not always distill into the atmosphere. The temperature isn't that high either.
 
Originally Posted By: barryh
If you pour a little gasoline into an open container and leave it at ambient temperature for a day or two, the container will soon be empty.


That's in an open system. But in a closed system, like a crankcase on an idle engine, any gasoline evaporation at ambient temperature would eventually saturate the enclosed atmosphere. And when the engine was started, these vaporized molecules would be reintroduced to the liquid gas/oil mixture. Plus any evaporation would be limited to gasoline molecules at the very surface of the sump level, which wouldn't be much. I think...

Otherwise, the solution to fuel dilution would be to simply leave the engine off for a few days.
 
Where to start?

Okay, the physics behind the fuel dilution/fuel re-evaporation cycle are complicated. To understand what's happening, you need to know a bit about the mechanics of dynamic multi-component vapour-liquid equilibrium and a process known in the oil industry as 'stripping'. If it's any consolation, most professional oil formulators and I'm guessing ALL engine designers, don't understand how this process works so don't feel bad if you're finding it all a bit difficult.

Perhaps the first thing to say is that if you have an engine that is prone to fuel dilution, or live in a part of the world that is perpetually very cold (or worse still, both!) then there's very little you can do oil-wise to stop fuel dilution; you can only mitigate it's knock-on effects.

The second thing to say, is that after a while, the stuff in your engine oil is NOT neat gasoline. It is the accumulated heaviest, least volatile part of partly burnt gasoline and is actually closer to very light kerosene in terms of it's boiling range. This stuff will not purge itself from your oil however many miles you drive in an attempt to 'burn it off'.

If you're concerned about the impact of fuel dilution on wear, then just go up a grade. If you're concerned about how re-evaporating fuel will carryover oil into your intake system and cause deposits, use the lowest Noack oil you can get your hands on (something like Amsoil 10W30).

Hope this helps...
 
Originally Posted By: barryh
If you pour a little gasoline into an open container and leave it at ambient temperature for a day or two, the container will soon be empty.


difference between boiling points and evaporation into an open system in which the PPM of the fuel in the ambient is essentially 0...boiling point of Napthalene (moth balls) is 218C, and yes, they evaporate in ambient conditions.

Have posted very similar to the OP regarding diesels with drippy injectors...you can never "boil it off" by running on the highway.
 
Two questions; first, is there any evaporation effect by the churning of the oil from the crankshaft rotation? Especially at higher speeds. Second, I'm assuming that there isn't total evaporation as some components of the gasoline remain. What is their effect on the oil if any?
 
Here's a rough guide from ALS on the types of hydrocarbons typically found in daily used hydrocarbons.

http://www.caslab.com/Forms-Downloads/Flyers/PETROLEUM_HYDROCARBON_RANGES_FLYER.pdf

Look at the Gasoline, and the heaviest shown is (roughly) dedecene.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodecane

(Note gross oversimplification here, there are heaps of hydrocarbon series and isomers, this is just the fully saturated straight chain for discussion).

Dodecane has a boiling point of 215C, but a viscosity of 1.34 Cst...so it's not likely to evaporate anywhere but the ring belt, and can take quite a bit of viscosity degradation.

It has a vapour pressure, which means that if left outside in a cup, it will "evaporate" to reach an equilibrium pressure with the atmosphere...and disappear, as previously observed.
 
Here are some results I measured on my old Daihatsu Sirion which might be helpful.

I ran the car from brand new for 9000 miles on the factory fill 0W20 (exact properties unknown). At the end of 9000 miles, the oil contained 8.86% 'fuel' and the KV100 had dropped to a frighteningly low 5.54 cst! I attributed this high level of fuel dilution to the low friction piston rings that Daihatsu used to improve the car's fuel economy. Interestingly the wear metals were all extremely low, possibly because the oil contained 568 ppm of Moly.

Now over the OCI, the car had used 706.6 litres (or roughly 540kg) of UK unleaded gasoline. The sump of this tiny 1.0 litre engine contained about 4kg of engine oil. 8.86% of fuel dilution therefore equates to 354 grams of 'fuel' in the sump. So if you compare this to the total amount of gasoline used, you come to the conclusion that after 9000 miles, only 0.65% of the gasoline had accumulated in the oil. GC or TGA analysis (I cant honestly remember what I did) showed this to be far heavier than 'normal' gasoline.
 
So much more than the 8% made it to the sump, and the lighter ends evaporated leaving the heavier fuel components that were still far lighter than the lighter oil components...
 
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