Absolutely correct. It will state "customer denies advised dealer recommended service". You do not want that on your vin. Your money. Just knowledgeable friendly advise.
Frustrating Dealer Experience
- Thread starter racer12306
- Start date
Change and get an analysis?
I think you should brush up on my posts. I'm not a change early person, I'm a change when appropriate person. I haven't decided on an interval with the Wrangler as it's still pretty new to us. However, on my Ram I've established sufficient evidence to go at least 10k miles per interval and am currently looking to extend up towards 15k, as driven by an analysis.
I'm more concerned with the flat out lie by the dealership. I'll concede to the subjectiveness of "dirty oil" but I will not concede that they lied about the level. However, I still ask is oil "dirty" if you can clearly see through it to the cross hatch?
I have evidence stored in my records and have my side presented to Chrysler. It is what is it at this point.
I haven't done one yet, but was going to give it a little more to "break in" but it might be a good thing to do, just in case.
Nothing wrong with another data point.
Your point is taken.But this really boils down to the cost of an oil change.
Honda re/re'd the rear bumper sensors twice under warranty on the accord and I found out later from a body shop (who was doing unrelated paint work that required the removal of said bumper) that Honda and not the bodyshop damaged the bumpers plastic clips. I wanted it fixed properly and ended up opening a claim with BBB who did nothing and did not forward me any correspondance until I contacted BBB head office for copies of emails. BBB is NOT in the consumers corner, the Honda stealership has been out of business for a few years now- hmmm if they treated customers like they did me....good riddance. Yes I hold grudges, if you f*k up a customers vehicle- fix the problem right.
So you are holding a grudge against a dealership not in business. Makes perfect sense...
Did they top off the oil? I didn't see anything about that, and a good tech won't just note that in the service records, but actually do something about it. He may not have authority to do an oil change, but topping it off is another story.
Whether this was good intent on the dealership or fishing for an expensive oil change to charge for, the notes are in the Stellantis system. I wouldn't want to jeopardize my warranty by changing oil myself and using products that may or may not be approved. Unfortunately they set the table with this situation, and I feel like the best choice to avoid significant hassle when you need warranty service again, is to have the regular maintenance performed at the dealer.
Look at the risk vs reward. You may want to perform all the maintenance yourself, but is it worth the risk of having a warranty claim denied or even the hassle of the fight? And, not to criticize further, you bought a Jeep product. They are very expensive and complex and known to have issues. Again - if I was in your shoes, I'd have the dealer maintain through the warranty period. Then have at it.
Whether this was good intent on the dealership or fishing for an expensive oil change to charge for, the notes are in the Stellantis system. I wouldn't want to jeopardize my warranty by changing oil myself and using products that may or may not be approved. Unfortunately they set the table with this situation, and I feel like the best choice to avoid significant hassle when you need warranty service again, is to have the regular maintenance performed at the dealer.
Look at the risk vs reward. You may want to perform all the maintenance yourself, but is it worth the risk of having a warranty claim denied or even the hassle of the fight? And, not to criticize further, you bought a Jeep product. They are very expensive and complex and known to have issues. Again - if I was in your shoes, I'd have the dealer maintain through the warranty period. Then have at it.
I would’ve e checked the oil level before I left the dealer lot and showed it to the advisor. Doing it at home they can always claim it was topped off, or the dealer can claim they topped it off after noticing it was low.
They claim that they did not add oil.
Unfortunately, it was an after hours pickup through the sales department. Good points though.
IMHO. My oil looks similer at 5000 miles. I change it between 5 and 6000 miles. for the money... one cannot beat mobil 1 5w30 EP and everyone has it. My engine runs quieter with it in there and uses less oil. Change this oil sooner rather than later. Keep your reciepts, and notes.
Oil color. If you look at some oil its yellow ish like cooking oil. Some oils are darker probably from the additive package. These oils will "appear" dirtyer than they are. M1 ep5w30 is darker and HPL may be as well. Yes, they would use this statement against you so change it time and or milage. When you say no to recommended service they are not happy. I have had dealers leave wiring harnesses weather connectors pulled out of the body and rainwater soaked the interior (after I paid for the diagnostics). I never said a word because this told me everything I wanted to know about the respect they had for me and my vehicle. Some say things are bad when they aren't. Im a mechanic I know, what is defective and what isn't. I only use the dealer for Warantee and recalls. I wont get into all the damage they have caused in just 5 visits with my one car. I digressed. I appoligize. Bottom line... if you like the dealer stay with them as good ones are very hard to find. We all learned something here. Change your oil before going in to the dealer for service work.
Oil color. If you look at some oil its yellow ish like cooking oil. Some oils are darker probably from the additive package. These oils will "appear" dirtyer than they are. M1 ep5w30 is darker and HPL may be as well. Yes, they would use this statement against you so change it time and or milage. When you say no to recommended service they are not happy. I have had dealers leave wiring harnesses weather connectors pulled out of the body and rainwater soaked the interior (after I paid for the diagnostics). I never said a word because this told me everything I wanted to know about the respect they had for me and my vehicle. Some say things are bad when they aren't. Im a mechanic I know, what is defective and what isn't. I only use the dealer for Warantee and recalls. I wont get into all the damage they have caused in just 5 visits with my one car. I digressed. I appoligize. Bottom line... if you like the dealer stay with them as good ones are very hard to find. We all learned something here. Change your oil before going in to the dealer for service work.
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What the P0017 Code Means:
- The P0017 code, also known as "Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B)," signifies that the engine's computer (ECM/PCM) has detected a discrepancy between the signals received from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor.
- This misalignment can lead to poor engine performance, rough idling, or even stalling. Off the internet.
I was paranoid enough about my '19 -- for no particular reason -- that I actually videod every change during the warranty period. Problem is I could never get my cheap vid cam to show the odo crisply.
Still, I chose to believe a judge would see X number of unique changes and say "good enough."
I'm not saying this is a good idea, but I didn't trust Stellantis. Fortunately I'm out of warranty now so no need to worry
I'm stubborn enough I would not give the dealer the win (feels like extortion) but go ahead and change it yourself and document it or even record it. If it ever comes up in the future play it off like you didn't "decline" the oil change but rather you were glad the dealer brought it to your attention and took their advice to change it yourself (with irrefutable proof).
Still, I chose to believe a judge would see X number of unique changes and say "good enough."
I'm not saying this is a good idea, but I didn't trust Stellantis. Fortunately I'm out of warranty now so no need to worry
I'm stubborn enough I would not give the dealer the win (feels like extortion) but go ahead and change it yourself and document it or even record it. If it ever comes up in the future play it off like you didn't "decline" the oil change but rather you were glad the dealer brought it to your attention and took their advice to change it yourself (with irrefutable proof).
LOL. Most people don't care what he says. He is the resident Debbie downer about everything and has sarcastic comments for just about everyone.
No idea what was said and somehow I'm just fine 
The Hurricane I-4 engine is NOT the engine I would recommend performing extended oil changes on, at all.
It has a long history between 2016 and now of clogging up the oil pressure solenoid screen with carbon deposits, causing P06DD codes, requiring either oil solenoid or oil pump replacements in under 60k miles when people follow the 10k mile or 1 year oil change interval schedule recommended by Stellantis.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
This isn't necessarily directed at you, just the board in general. I spent 60,000 dollars on my truck. I do an oil change every 5000 miles or sooner. It never ceases to amaze me how people will run oil to 7500, 10,000 or more miles most likely the difference of 1 oil change a year, maybe 100 bucks. I don't see the value in it. I even change the Buick's every 4000 ish. Just easy piece of mind and it gets me under the hood more often to check stuff out.
I personally think OP’s oil is quite dark for only having 15K on the motor and 5K on the oil. This is my Toyota’s dipstick with 5K miles on it. Motor has 100K miles on her. Supertech oil 0W-16.
