Friends 2007 v6 accord 185k mi burning 1.5 quart every 1000 miles. Would changing to heavier oil help till the car is traded in ?

Quantico

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A lot of engines drive off the lot using a quart every 1000 and the dealer will tell you thats "normal".

If there poor (not derogatory - I grew up dirt poor) I would fix the brakes and bearings, try some different oils, and drive it until it plugs a cat or something. Honesetly with the use there giving it they might get years on it. The way to become not poor is avoid car payments.

Just my $0.02 which was given for free and may be worth less than that.
The best way to be poor is to put 4000 into a bad car that has a 4000 value. Then drive it till the engine fails completely taking another 4000 loss. Then buying your new 40 grand car that cost you 48 grand
 
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The best way to be poor is to put 4000 into a bad car that has a 4000 value. Then drive it till the engine fails completely taking another 4000 loss. Then buying your new 40 grand car that cost you 48 grand
OP said $2K repairs. Based on average new car prices if you did $2K and got 4 months you would be about break even - if buying a cheap car.

To each there own. There have been lots of studies over the years and every one says its statistically cheaper to drive a beater and pay the repairs. However you might always be the unlucky one and have the above happen.
The car is worth 4000 and needs more than two grand in repairs in wheel bearings and hubs and brakes and exhaust.
 

Quantico

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OP said $2K repairs. Based on average new car prices if you did $2K and got 4 months you would be about break even - if buying a cheap car.

To each there own. There have been lots of studies over the years and every one says its statistically cheaper to drive a beater and pay the repairs. However you might always be the unlucky one and have the above happen.
Its 2 grand in needed repairs plus scheduled timing belt and water pump and tensioner and a few other things. So 4 grand


Heads up. This is a friends car. He only buys new cars. He only buys toyota and honda. He has decided putting 4 grand in a car worth 4 grand is dumb due to the excessive oil consumption which will destroy the cat converters and maybe the engine.

So folks telling me what to do is a non starter.
I just wondered if changing to thicker oil is a good suggestion for me to make

Telling me to buy a used car or just run it as is is wasted energy. Its not my car.. its not my decision..
I buy higher end much more used cars myself. I am willing to pay repair bills or fix stuff myself.. but this honda.. as I have clearly stated several times is going to be traded in on a new car as soon as the money stuff is figured out.

Telling me to pursue other options is like telling your ex wife what to do.. it has no purpose.
 

Quantico

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OP said $2K repairs. Based on average new car prices if you did $2K and got 4 months you would be about break even - if buying a cheap car.

To each there own. There have been lots of studies over the years and every one says its statistically cheaper to drive a beater and pay the repairs. However you might always be the unlucky one and have the above happen.
The reasoning you are not taking into account.. is that the car has about 4000 value today.. wait 6 months and the engine and cat converter fail and the value is 200 bucks.
Putting 4000 into the car to keep running it makes it about a 8000 dollar cost for 4 months use.
 

Quantico

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Sc maint. Is buying a new honda pilot or toyota highlander a cheap car ?? I dont think those cars fall in cheap area
 
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I buy higher end much more used cars myself. I am willing to pay repair bills or fix stuff myself.. but this honda.. as I have clearly stated several times is going to be traded in on a new car as soon as the money stuff is figured out.

Telling me to pursue other options is like telling your ex wife what to do.. it has no purpose.
You realize this is an internet forum, where others in the same predicamint may come to read and make their own decision based on their own set of circumstances. If you start a topic you get to take that which you agree and don't agree. Getting angry about it seems illogical - its just 0s and 1's in the ether and you (or they) can do whatever they want.
 
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Its not my car.. not my call. The car needs at least two grand in maint now PLUS needs a new timing belt n tensioner and water pump. So this 4000 used car needs 4 grand in repairs. If the engine fails or the cats are destroyed in oil the car is worth 200 bucks.. and still needs to be replaced. Plus its a 15 year old wisconsin salt car. So the rot is getting bad now.
Its my friends wifes car. The family kid to school hauler etc and grocerys and sports 4 times a week for their kid. So spending 4 grand on a car worth 4 grand is dumb at 175 k miles with very bad oil useage..
old or not maintained right (plus the TSB wrk)...rings are in the beyond category. W/wife'n kids I'd consentrate on the safety 1st, get the cheepest 5w40 and "pour it on".

There's a good difference between the 2 statements "1.5 qt every 1,000 mi" and "every 650 to 700"... but no difference. A good ck reference might B every fill up pull the stick (or after a cardbrd under the motor area over nite - if in garage OK, if outside secured w/rocks/bricks) to ID if drips or mostly burnin that oil up. If crdbrd extremey soiled or bearly an external engine clean might ensue to find the leak's source (if unobservable otherwise). If U can smell or C the oil burning (tail pipe) no need for these last 2 proceedures (just wanna get the diagnosis straight).
 
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