Friends 2007 v6 accord 185k mi burning 1.5 quart every 1000 miles. Would changing to heavier oil help till the car is traded in ?

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Found out a good friends 2007 accord is using a lot of oil. Quart about every 650 to 700 miles. Car has 185 k miles.. he bought the honda new.. did 3500 to 400 mile oil changes with mobil 1 at the honda suggested weight and spec..
This car had the pistons and bearings replaced by honda for huge oil burning when the car was just a few years old under some tsb or make good deal..
The car is worth 4000 and needs more than two grand in repairs in wheel bearings and hubs and brakes and exhaust.. that does not include trying to fix the engine again..

He is going to buy a new honda as soon as he can afford one.. in the mean time would using a heavier weight oil be helpful ??
 
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A new pcv valve would help if the old one is clogged.
My '07 Accord V6 is still running perfectly (at something like 115,000 miles). I never have to add oil and I'm using 5W-20 or 0W-20 oil. On the other hand the 6MT transmission in mine had to be replaced in the first couple of weeks (under warranty of course). Otherwise it's been a great car.

The PCV valve is easy to replace but the OEM part is kind of expensive. But for an engine part I prefer to use OEM. I replaced the PCV valve for the first time recently. I think replacing the one on yours would be a good idea too.

I've been using Castrol Edge motor oil recently. You might try a 0w-30 or 0W-40 oil for the winter.
 
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What weight oil are you using now? If it's 5-20 suggest new Honda oem pcv valve like others mentioned and try switching to chevron supreme 5-30 synthetic blend . My kids 2005 accord went from a quart every 800 to 900 miles to maybe 1/2 quart on 5000 mile oil changes with those changes and it has not gotten any worse since those changes near 4 years ago. Suspect it was really the pcv valve that fixed it, but never changed from something that worked. Sounds like this car is unsafe so maybe time for some repairs or car shopping.
 
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Has he tried using different brands ? Alot of times......that helps more than using a thicker oil.
 
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OP is in Wisconsin. Not sure if it gets cold there at all but might assume that friend is also in Wisconsin. So, thicker oil is worth a try and synthetic should be considered.

So, engine is a Honda defect, and the Mobil1, the recommended weight, and 3.5-4k intervals didn't help, even after the pseudo rebuild. So, why is everyone using the recommended grade still?

I would recommend any 0w40 or 5w40 oil as the top off now, and then fill the sump with 0w40 at his next interval. In 0w40, should be able to find Mobil1, Castrol, Pennzoil, or Valvoline, either at local autopart stores, or even walmart. Don't have brand loyalty since it didn't do any good anyway. 5w40... add Delo, Rotella, and store brands too!

Guessing it takes the metric 7317 filter. Walmart has their pretty good Supertech MP7317 for $6.

If he isn't due for an oil change soon, he can toss in a bottle of STP synthetic(gold bottle might be discontinued but still available). Its will add some viscosity and detergents, and easy way to test if visc might reduce consumption. If consumption is reduced with the added STP, then definitely run the 40 grades.


 
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Just add a quart every other time you get gas. May run for 10 more years with this regimen of just adding oil as needed. Only fix the other stuff as required to keep it safe.

In addition to the PCV valve and hose. Could try BG44K fuel system cleaner or Redline S1 which may free up rings some. Seems to help my `06 Odyssey.
 
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So you guys are kinda overlooking one point I think… @OVERKILL and I have discussed it some- that especially Group III and above oils, there is a direct correlation between the viscosity index and Noack %… the higher the VI, the higher the evaporation rate. Synthetics nearly always have a higher VI and in this case, this will lead to more “burning” even if part of the issue is the rings.

If I was in the OP’s friend’s position, I’d buy two quarts of HPL 30 EC. Top it off with the EC, and continue to top off with the EC until it’s gone. Then, put as many miles on it until he gets to 1000 miles or the oil is at the low end of the dipstick. Then, I’d buy a conventional or semi-syn 5W30 or 10w30 hi-mi blend; I’d shoot for a VI of as low as possible since this will “generally” deliver the lowest evaporation.

But the very first thing I’d do is replace the PCV with an OEM part; Hondas are notorious for not only PCV plugging issues, but also for alternative PCVs never really working well.

It also may not hurt to do a Berryman’s B-12 piston soak- pull the plugs and dump an ounce of b-12 in each hole, crank it over 4-5 revolutions, stick the plugs in. Repeat over next two days about every 6 hours. If it’s that the rings are coked up, this will definitely improve the situation!
 

Quantico

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I think he is using 5 w 20. But not positive. He only uses mobil 1. The PCV valve is new. Not any part of the oil useage.

Honda redid a lot of engines with excessive oil useage and that was when the engine was almost new. So this is another honda oil useage problem. There are no leaks either.

Wisconsin gets to single digits often in winter.. so likely 10 w 40 would be as thick as you would want to go.
 

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I think he is using 5 w 20. But not positive. He only uses mobil 1. The PCV valve is new. Not any part of the oil useage.

Honda redid a lot of engines with excessive oil useage and that was when the engine was almost new. So this is another honda oil useage problem. There are no leaks either.

Wisconsin gets to single digits often in winter.. so likely 10 w 40 would be as thick as you would want to go.
Is this a VCM engine?
 

Quantico

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Just add a quart every other time you get gas. May run for 10 more years with this regimen of just adding oil as needed. Only fix the other stuff as required to keep it safe.

In addition to the PCV valve and hose. Could try BG44K fuel system cleaner or Redline S1 which may free up rings some. Seems to help my `06 Odyssey.
Its not my car.. not my call. The car needs at least two grand in maint now PLUS needs a new timing belt n tensioner and water pump. So this 4000 used car needs 4 grand in repairs. If the engine fails or the cats are destroyed in oil the car is worth 200 bucks.. and still needs to be replaced. Plus its a 15 year old wisconsin salt car. So the rot is getting bad now.
Its my friends wifes car. The family kid to school hauler etc and grocerys and sports 4 times a week for their kid. So spending 4 grand on a car worth 4 grand is dumb at 175 k miles with very bad oil useage..
 
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