Frantz for transmission remote FF mount

[iceberg]

Ok, I tried to install a frantz filter on my transmission its a 99 dodge ram with a gasoline 360.
I had a remote full flow filter already installed on the transmission cooler line so I installed a perma cool 181 sandwich adapter and the frantz with the .040 restrictor on it and checked the flow it was squirting out really good. Took it for a test drive and after it warmed up it was making a buzzing sound. I have a tranny temp gauge and it was still at 125 degrees so it wasnt overheating or anything. Got back home and popped the hood the buzzing noise was coming from the sandwich adapter. I can't explain it. It just buzzes. Sounds like the spring is bouncing around in its channel and when I put my hand on the remote full flow filter I can feel it vibrating.

I took it apart and drilled a .040 hole in the sandwich adapter put it back together and same thing. Any ideas how to get this thing to stop buzzing?

 

[trynew]

Are you positive that you have the hoses hooked up correctly from the transmission to the full flow filter? Once I hooked up a remote filter with the hoses reversed and the anti-drainback valve (I think) in the filter buzzed from the fluid being forced to go the wrong way through the filter. Switching the hoses stopped the buzzing.

 

[Tommy]

Have you considered keeping it simple and replacing the entire full-flow filter head with the Frantz? There are some posts here that explain the details of this type of installation.

 

[iceberg]

The fluid is squirting from the radiator to the "IN" on the remote filter mount. From there the arrow pointing away from the perma cool adapter is going to the "IN" on the frantz. On the dodge trucks there is a anti-drain back check ball in the other cooler line I wonder if the two check balls are conflicting with each other? This is just wierd. I have one of the frantz adapters for the transmission but after reading a few posts about it restricting flow I took it out and am trying this route. I will probably just switch it back to the in-line adapter but I am not ready to give up yet I would still like the full flow to be on there. I am going to take out the factory check ball today and place the full flow and frantz where it used to go. Many dodge truck owners have reported this part gets clogged over the years and restricts flow and takes out the tranny. By replacing it with this set up the anti-drain back valve in the full flow should work in its place.

 

[iceberg]

Thanks for the advice Gary, Got it working. Removed the restrictor as suggested the holes are drilled at 1/4 inch for the inlet and outlet on the frantz. I removed the factory check ball in the transmission cooler line and setup my full flow/bypass filters in its place. This is before the radiator/trans cooler. I ended up drilling the hole .052 in the sandwich adapter. No more buzzing so far and the bypass gets hot. I wanted to remove that factory check ball anyway. When I was reading some forums I guess many a dodge truck transmissions overheat and self destruct when this check ball gets plugged up. Time to grab a beer!

 

[Gary Allan]

Assuming everything is flowing in the right direction....

Sounds like your sandwich relief poppet is modulating. I'd drill another .040 hole or bore out the .040 hole a little more.

I'd also ditch the restrictor in the Frantz. There's no reason to restrict this flow. You're not "robbing" any flow that isn't returning into the same fluid circuit. This would be my first step before drilling.

 

[iceberg]

Well thought all was good. Now after it is warmed up I get the buzzing but only in reverse (coming from the sandwich adapter). It doesn't do it when it is cold. When I ordered the frantz in-line tranny adapter I was told to drill out the holes to 1/4 inch on the inlet and outlet of the frantz. Is this to big for the sandwich adapter setup I now have? Any ideas?

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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but only in reverse

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Can I assume that you mean when you select "R" on the shifter? I wondered for a second if you meant that the sequence of buzzing was different between cold and hot (as in "this time it's the other way around").

If this is indeed "R" ..then I'll assume that it's because of the increased pressure required for the applications that reverse the torque ..and the subsequent increased flow through the rest of the circuit.

I'd tweak the hole a little bigger ..or better yet, for the sake of not over doing it, drill a new hole as small as you can (this should open it less than making the current one bigger)..and keep going until the warm reverse buzzing stops. You should be able to hit a good balance where you still have a good differential to induce flow to the Frantz (you only need about 2 psid) and keep the poppet from rattling around.

 

[iceberg]

Yes it just does it in reverse. I'll try to drill another small hole. There must be a lot more pressure in reverse in this tranny. Do you see any problems with the holes in the frantz being so big at 1/4 inch on the in and out? If it doesn't work after I drill another hole I'm going to cork the return of the sandwich adapter drill some holes in it and punch the tranny pan for a return.

[ February 09, 2005, 10:33 PM: Message edited by: iceberg ]

 

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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There must be a lot more pressure in reverse in this tranny.

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All trannies should have higher pressure in reverse. Yes, a good bit higher than in the forward gears.

quote:

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Do you see any problems with the holes in the frantz being so big at 1/4 inch on the in and out?

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Not in an "in line" situation where the flow is returning in line.

quote:

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If it doesn't work after I drill another hole I'm going to cork the return of the sandwich adapter drill some holes in it and punch the tranny pan for a return.

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Well, if that's your alternative ...then I'd just keep adding small holes until it goes away. You plan on doing that anyway before you punch the pan. I'm sure you'll reach an equalibrium if you don't over do it. I know it's a pain dialing it in ..but once you're done ..you're done for life.

Good luck!

 

[iceberg]

I took it apart three more times and slowly kept drilling the hole bigger. Got a fast way to do it now and I was bored at work so it passed a lot of time. I ended up drilling a 7/64 inch hole in the sandwich adapter and I can only hear the buzzing in reverse if I put a screw driver against the remote full flow filter housing. I can live with that. The bypass still gets hot so it is working. I thought about going to 1/8 inch but I think that will be to big and the bypass will get cold if I do. When I drilled my sandwich adapter 1/8 inch for the motor oil the bypass got cold. Thanks for the help gary I'm glad I took my time and did it this way instead of punching the pan.

 

[Gary Allan]

Congrats!!!

Edit: One good feature of this could be that when you hear (really hear it) ..it may be time to swap out the TP or the FF

 

[iceberg]

I emailed Ralph about this and got a reply he said to drill it 1/8 inch so I did. Filter still gets hot and no more buzzing at all. Hey Ralph have you done this a few times?

Thanks to Gary and Ralph for the help.