Anyone foul the plugs after fogging the cylinders ? I am trying to determine if it is worth saving pulling the manifold to replace the plugs before fogging. I haven't started my Stealth R/T DOHC NA in about 2 yrs, so out of caution I am going to fog the cylinders, change the oil and prime the oil pump by pulling the ECU fuse. I have had no problems before with air cooled engines . I've got about 35K on the plugs and they look in decent shape.
Foul Plugs After Fogging the Cylinders ?
- Thread starter edge10
- Start date
Any pictures of this Stealth R/T air cooled engine? Don't think I've seen one before.
Just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank for 15 seconds, then start as usual. Sitting for 2 years isn't a problem. It would be a good idea to start it up every 3-6 months while in storage, if just for a few seconds, to keep everything lubricated and to prevent the fuel pump from seizing.
It can happen yes. But remove the plugs, fog the cylinders, and crank it over with the ECM fuse pulled and NO spark plugs. The oil will coat the cylinder walls, and the vapor will get jet blasted out........
Pull the plugs, tablespoon of oil in each cylinder, turn over with wrench several times, replace plugs, start
I would not do anything. Just start it and go.
No fogging, no cranking, nothing.
The idea that such maintenance provides benefit is in error. In fact, all that maintenance does is introduce the possibility of introducing a fault. The very best thing you can do for it, after sitting for a while, is run it and drive the tank low and fill with fresh gas. After that, if you find a need, address that particular issue.
Don't even change the oil until you've driven it.
No fogging, no cranking, nothing.
The idea that such maintenance provides benefit is in error. In fact, all that maintenance does is introduce the possibility of introducing a fault. The very best thing you can do for it, after sitting for a while, is run it and drive the tank low and fill with fresh gas. After that, if you find a need, address that particular issue.
Don't even change the oil until you've driven it.
If anything, I would’ve fogged the cylinders before the car was put in storage. Now I do not see any benefit. I would probably just crank it with the fuel pump shut off until the oil pressure light goes off. Then start it normally.
Why? The cranking won't move oil rapidly through the engine. In fact, the oil pump could take much longer to prime during a crank cycle. There absolutely will be residual oil on the crank bearings, so no worry there, and the load on the valve train and piston rings remains the same, starting or cranking. A startup is the fastest way to oil everything, especially cam lobes, cam chain and pistons/cylinders/rings.
Just in case it lost its prime. And this is a cold startup so the RPMs will shoot up right away.
And the oil moves quite well even at cranking RPM. When I was doing the rocker arms on my Pentastar, I rotated the crank by hand to check the timing marks and I could see the oil coming out of the rockets.
