k24z6 rebuild or replace

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Jun 3, 2023
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2014 Honda CRV, K24z6, 91k miles

Short Version: I believe I have oil leaking past the rings in one cylinder sufficient to cause an intermittent misfire on startup and am debating replacing rings vs replacing the engine.

Long Version: Recent used car purchase. Car will trigger a cylinder 3 misfire on cold start up roughly 10% of time. Scan tool shows no misfires after 45 seconds or so. 50/50 on if misfire will be severe enough to cause ECU to disable #3 fuel injector, but resetting code will cause vehicle to drive normally. Dealer replaced plugs and coil as courtesy despite sale being as-is. Swapped coils and fuel injectors and problem stays on cylinder 3. Borescoped engine and cylinder 3 appeared wet. Initially suspected head gasket/coolant leak, but head gasket leak test (where you pull air from the radiator though a fluid which will change color if exposed to exhaust gasses) was negative. Added UV dye to coolant, and piston top does not fluoresce. Long “q-tip” sample of piston top seems consistent with motor oil. Replaced valve stem seals with no improvement.

When I replaced the valve stem seals I leaned that someone of had removed the timing cover before and left out one bolt and left another only hand tight.

I am considering attempting to replace the pistons rings while leaving the engine inside the vehicle, essentially using the method outline in this TSB for an slightly earlier CRV (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10152429-0001.pdf).

A friend, who has rebuilt several Honda engines, advises me that engine has likely been overheated, and that Honda’s don’t do well when they’re overheated and I will likely need to send the block to a machine shop. I’m not sure I agree. The head gasket isn’t leaking currently, so I’m not convinced the block should be warped, and I’m not convinced there should be much wear on a 91k mile engine. This would be the most complex repair I’ll have attempted. If I pull the head the block is warped or there any other problems on the lower end, I’d give up and have the car towed to a shop for an engine replacement.

I’ve inquired with my mechanic about an engine replacement. Unfortunately, he can’t source a replacement engine from his normal suppliers. He’s willing to install an engine are a reasonable rate if I bought it, but I really don’t know where to look, and searches online seem to show that nearly all engine remanufacturing outfits get mixed reviews as best (although I’m sure there is some selection bias in that). I’m really not interested in gambling on junkyard engine.

I have several related questions:
  • How normal is it see a problem present on only one cylinder? Should this cause me to worry that it something different from a normal stuck oil control ring issue?
  • How likely is the lower end to need machine shop work?
 
It's possible overheating caused the issue-I had a Honda B series in a Civic wagon I picked up for a song that coked all the oil control rings & caused fairly massive oil burning issues. Dropped & cleaned the pan, pulled the head, pulled piston & rod assemblies, honed cylinders, new standard rings, .001 undersize rod bearings (IIRC), back together with a new HG, it was fine for years afterwards. You won't know until you get #3 out, look at the rings, & mike the cylinder (& rod journal). Engine ran fine before except for mosquito fogging!
 
Thanks for the responses.

Compression test was normal. I also forgot to mention I check valve clearances and all where within spec.

I think a leaky fuel injector can be eliminated since I swapped injectors and the problem remains on cylinder 3. I'm skeptical on a piston soak working (tried on a old Toyota Corolla which wasn't bad enough misfire without success) although I suppose there is little harm in trying.
 
I would rather replace the engine vs rebuilding it. I can't imagine there not being a 2014 CRV engine in a junkyard somewhere.
 
Does you have to top the coolant off on occasion? What does the spark plug look like? Honestly misfire only on startup that goes away fairly quickly is characteristic of a failed head gasket, and when they fail in this manner they nearly always pass a chemical head gasket test, as they don't get a large enough amount of combustion gasses into the cooling system for the tester to pick them up. The next thing I would do is perform a leak down test on that cylinder with the engine cold, and as opposed to checking the actual leak down, let it sit with full pressure on the missing cylinder for an hour or two and see if it pressurizes the cooling system.
 
Does you have to top the coolant off on occasion? What does the spark plug look like? Honestly misfire only on startup that goes away fairly quickly is characteristic of a failed head gasket, and when they fail in this manner they nearly always pass a chemical head gasket test, as they don't get a large enough amount of combustion gasses into the cooling system for the tester to pick them up. The next thing I would do is perform a leak down test on that cylinder with the engine cold, and as opposed to checking the actual leak down, let it sit with full pressure on the missing cylinder for an hour or two and see if it pressurizes the cooling system.
Thanks so much! I did the leak down test as you mentioned, and it is slowly but unmistakably pressurizing the cooling system. While I had the plug out, I took another look with the borescope and saw a much bigger puddle than before. Q-tip test was unmistakenly coolant.

Probably moot, but I've been trying not to drive the car other than for necessary testing until I've resolved this, probably only 600 miles since I've purchased it. I haven't observed measureable consumption of oil or coolant in that time. The plugs more or less look new since the dealer replaced them.

Any reason to do anything more than pull the head, check the block for straightness and send the head to a machine shop?

Thanks again. Head gasket was my first thought after seeing the borescope images, but I put too much faith in the test solution.
 
I agree with your approach. Hopefully its limited to the gasket and head.

we have the 2015 version of this vehicle. I believe it’s the same engine. It’s a solid vehicle.
 
Any reason to do anything more than pull the head, check the block for straightness and send the head to a machine shop?
Nope, this would be my plan of attack as well. On higher mileage engines I'll generally recommend a timing chain set as well, but 91k isn't probably there yet, unless it rattles on cold start it's probably ok. Usually I pull the valve seals out of the head gasket kit and have the machine shop change them when they machine the head. Also wouldn't hurt to have a look in the cylinders after you get the head off to check for scoring or cracks, otherwise you should be good to go. And you're welcome, happy to help 😁
 
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