I had a vague interest in a Ranger crew cab with a short bed if it would fit in my garage, but I probably won't bother looking into it after seeing this thread...
Forget about changing your own oil in new Ford Ranger
- Thread starter CKN
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Have to wait and see on this, but two plastic covers isn't the end of the world or out of the norm on any modern car. Taking the wheel off (If truly required) is annoying, but tire rotation is probably specified at each OCI anyway.
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
Yes,how will the reliability be when the Splash Cover for the Electric power steering is removed and thrown away and it gets soaked with road salt.
Another reason to change your own oil.
Rod
Those plastic splash covers are a must have on vehicles built within the last 15-20 years. I had one that was broken on my '04 Corolla, so I removed it. After that I noticed every time I drove the car in the rain I kept getting a battery/electrical idiot light whenever I hit a puddle. Turns out the right front tire would splash water on one of the serpentine belt pulleys and was causing the belt to hydroplane on the pulley. I replaced the cover and it never happened again...
Yes,how will the reliability be when the Splash Cover for the Electric power steering is removed and thrown away and it gets soaked with road salt.
Another reason to change your own oil.
Rod
Those plastic splash covers are a must have on vehicles built within the last 15-20 years. I had one that was broken on my '04 Corolla, so I removed it. After that I noticed every time I drove the car in the rain I kept getting a battery/electrical idiot light whenever I hit a puddle. Turns out the right front tire would splash water on one of the serpentine belt pulleys and was causing the belt to hydroplane on the pulley. I replaced the cover and it never happened again...
Ford hasn't even loaded the workshop manuals for the new Ranger to dealers yet.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by dblshock
instant deal killer.
If that procedure is accurate... This^
instant deal killer.
If that procedure is accurate... This^
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Step 1 to the end of DIY auto maintenance?
Sounds like a remote filter mount setup is in order, for the oil pan you can put a Fumoto Valve on the pan that has the brass (not plastic) nipple on the end and attach a hose with hose clamps and leave it in the "open" position and at the other end of that hose put a shut-off ball valve. It wouldn't be high pressure because it's coming off the sump so it won't leak. Really stupid to have to do this but doable to save time and frustration on future oil changes.
Ford what were you thinking?
Ford what were you thinking?
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Originally Posted by 02SE
No worries. Just take it to a quick lube place, they'll handle it: Skilled oil change
"Before we go into this sad tale of dumbshittery and insipid laziness"
"just fecal icing on this whole impressive sh.itcake"
Must read!
No worries. Just take it to a quick lube place, they'll handle it: Skilled oil change
"Before we go into this sad tale of dumbshittery and insipid laziness"
"just fecal icing on this whole impressive sh.itcake"
Must read!
Originally Posted by CKN
Here are the procedures for changing the oil in a new Ford Ranger 2.3 motor--
After removing the left front wheel, a technician or owner must then remove an access panel secured by nine push-pin retainers. From there, one removes the filter with an end cap tool. To actually drain the oil, which of course you'll accomplish before attacking that filter, you'll first need to unbolt the power steering control module underbody shield. Four bolts hold that on.
They'll do anything to get you back to the dealership for some milking.
Here are the procedures for changing the oil in a new Ford Ranger 2.3 motor--
After removing the left front wheel, a technician or owner must then remove an access panel secured by nine push-pin retainers. From there, one removes the filter with an end cap tool. To actually drain the oil, which of course you'll accomplish before attacking that filter, you'll first need to unbolt the power steering control module underbody shield. Four bolts hold that on.
They'll do anything to get you back to the dealership for some milking.
Just get a Jeep Gladiator. The cartridge filter is front and center under the hood. EASY to do a true 10 minute oil change on your own. Besides, Ford pipes in prerecorded engine sound through the speakers when you get on the throttle. Ford fake news.
Originally Posted by PiperOne
I've heard similar stories from folks I know who run the new style Ford Transit vans...I think they have the EcoBoost in them but might be the 3.7L. They describe a process that results in a [censored] of a mess each time they change the oil due to the filter being in a very odd not service friendly place. But this is also the same engineering miracle that uses a rubber disc instead of a real u-joint in the drive shaft (they call it a guibo).
Sounds like the GMT400 4X4s in a way.
The Transit is a European van, hence the guibo joint.
I've heard similar stories from folks I know who run the new style Ford Transit vans...I think they have the EcoBoost in them but might be the 3.7L. They describe a process that results in a [censored] of a mess each time they change the oil due to the filter being in a very odd not service friendly place. But this is also the same engineering miracle that uses a rubber disc instead of a real u-joint in the drive shaft (they call it a guibo).
Sounds like the GMT400 4X4s in a way.
The Transit is a European van, hence the guibo joint.
To me, it's not about the complexity of the procedure itself. it's about them putting a 2.3 4 cylinder engine in a pickup truck, and still not being able to figure out an easy way for the oil to be changed. this oil change description is only slightly easier than changing the oil in my Maserati was. I sure didn't have to take any wheels off, so maybe it's better.
Why would they do that?
My old Tundra is looking better every day...
My old Tundra is looking better every day...
Originally Posted by dblshock
instant deal killer.
It sure would be for me!
instant deal killer.
It sure would be for me!
Originally Posted by PiperOne
I've heard similar stories from folks I know who run the new style Ford Transit vans...I think they have the EcoBoost in them but might be the 3.7L. They describe a process that results in a [censored] of a mess each time they change the oil due to the filter being in a very odd not service friendly place. But this is also the same engineering miracle that uses a rubber disc instead of a real u-joint in the drive shaft (they call it a guibo).
Nope. I've got the 3.5 Ecoboost. Easy peasy oil change.
I've heard similar stories from folks I know who run the new style Ford Transit vans...I think they have the EcoBoost in them but might be the 3.7L. They describe a process that results in a [censored] of a mess each time they change the oil due to the filter being in a very odd not service friendly place. But this is also the same engineering miracle that uses a rubber disc instead of a real u-joint in the drive shaft (they call it a guibo).
Nope. I've got the 3.5 Ecoboost. Easy peasy oil change.
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
The giubo is the least of the Transit's issues, they wear out rear axles almost as fast as the giubo! The new vans were a MONSTER drop off from the Econolines-not that I was ever a huge fan, but at least I could get 100K relatively trouble-free miles out of them. They're all building them cheaper & cheaper.
Mine was very early production in the first model year. It has 105k and other than a few recalls, a tie rod end, and cheap interior trim pieces, it is holding up great. I do have a Ford reman engine, though, thanks to an error by a quicky oil change joint leading to a blown engine. They paid dearly for it. ($12k). Both Ecoboost engines have been trouble free. It still feels tight and drives great. It is MUCH more powerful, comfortable and efficient than the Econoline. I wouldn't trade it even for a brand new E350.
The giubo is the least of the Transit's issues, they wear out rear axles almost as fast as the giubo! The new vans were a MONSTER drop off from the Econolines-not that I was ever a huge fan, but at least I could get 100K relatively trouble-free miles out of them. They're all building them cheaper & cheaper.
Mine was very early production in the first model year. It has 105k and other than a few recalls, a tie rod end, and cheap interior trim pieces, it is holding up great. I do have a Ford reman engine, though, thanks to an error by a quicky oil change joint leading to a blown engine. They paid dearly for it. ($12k). Both Ecoboost engines have been trouble free. It still feels tight and drives great. It is MUCH more powerful, comfortable and efficient than the Econoline. I wouldn't trade it even for a brand new E350.
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