Ford 6F35 (2010 Escape) Should I remove some ATF?

[97tbird]

2010 AWD v6

So I guess you can't trust even the long-known to me trusted mechanic not to make mistakes.

I got my ATF drain/fill done at a local Ford mechanic known to me. this was about 2 weeks ago. I had brought 7 qts of mercon LV (just to have extra if needed) and when I left he gave me the rest: 1 bottle. I was a bit curious how he drained 6 qts when I have read so many times that our trans lets only about 4-5 qts drain. I didn't ask him how he managed to drain 6 qts because I thought I'd come across as suspecting that he "stole" a qt of ATF or something. I am terribly shy at things like that. It was always in the back of my mind though. Trans shifted fine and no issues.

Anyway the other day I was checking fluids while changing the air filter and although I know ATF level should be checked hot, I just gave the trans dipstick a look and it was clearly ABOVE the full mark. Knowing that the level would be even higher when hot, I thought I'd check it under correct conditions today.

Drove about 17 miles mostly around 65-70 mph and parked, level ground, moved shifter through all positions and checked level while engine running. Here is what my dipstick looks like. I did it twice, it is really hard to see the light pink ATF on this old type dip stick. As best as I could tell the ATF level was where the RED ARROWS are pointing at. It is NOT easy to see in the pic, but that's where the level is, i could see it pretty well once I got used to turning it to see the reflections on it. And I took a piece of shop towel and ran it down the stick until it got wet and that's where the piece of paper started getting wet with a pinkish color. (post continues below the image)

So, I guess he did overfill it after all.
Luckily I have a small hand pump and even a big mighty vac so I can remove some ATF.

Question is: that amount above the full line on the dipstick: does it roughly indicate how much I should remove? I do have some ATF at home so I guess I can always add if I remove too much, but I would rather not, because I will have to drive the car again to get the ATF hot for an accurate level check. Don't want to drive with ATF too low.
(I guess as long as I get the level between full and add lines COLD, I should have enough ATF to be able to drive to get ATF hot enough to check again?)
Sorry for the long post but I want to make sure I do this right.
Thanks for any and all tips/answers.

Related question: my escape is a 2010 and I have seen the TSB regarding the last 1-2 hard shift and the PCM reflash etc. although my trans is not exhibiting that problem, is it worth getting that done? Any idea how much a dealer would charge for the process?

 

[Lyman]

Take it back and have the shop adjust the level.

 

[dogememe]

My 2010 Escape with 6F35 takes like exact 4 quarts in a drain and fill. I'd take some out!

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

After the ATF change, especially on 6F35, it's important to clear the fuzzy logic the trans has adapted to for the current (old) fluid condition. Easiest way is disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, then hook back up. It will reset the logic and relearn all the shifting. Otherwise you risk keeping whatever shift issues you had before.

 

[GSCJR]

Should this be done to all vehicles after an ATF change? I wouldn't bother draining OP, it's not that much over the full mark.

 

[ToadU]

Originally Posted by GSCJR
Should this be done to all vehicles after an ATF change? I wouldn't bother draining OP, it's not that much over the full mark.


I agree. I wouldn't worry. Drive happy.

 

[97tbird]

Originally Posted by dogememe
My 2010 Escape with 6F35 takes like exact 4 quarts in a drain and fill. I'd take some out!

SO HAPPY to see another 2010 Escape owner! I will probably have a few questions for you as I start using this vehicle more - do you mind if i PM you once in a while with some questions?
One question I do have right now: is There ANY place under this car where you can put it on jack stands?? I looked everywhere but cannot find a suitable place for jack stands. Only the "nub"/bolt suggested in the manual for the emergency jack.

General Update for ALL responses:
Thanks for all who replied.

- I called the mechanic and he admitted that he did not DRIVE the car to warm up but let it idled for 20 min then checked and set ATF level. He also said i did it by the book and it is correct how I did it. He offered to take some out if I feel bothered by it. It's 1 hr drive one way so I told him it's ok and I can suck some out. He suggested 1/2 qt first then only suck out more if needed. I think I will just suck 1/2 qt like he said and check level. If it's a BIT over or at full mark I will leave it be. He did apologize but believed that because I had REALLY warmed it up with driving i had the higher/better level reading.

- I have not heard of resetting PCM every time ATF is changed and not sure how necessary it is. But I will look into it. (mechanic didn't think it was necessary, but like I said I will look more into it)

- I have decided to do all oil, and ATF fluid changes myself in the future. At least one can do them by crawling under the car, although jack stands would be best (see above question I asked dogememe)

 

[97tbird]

Update:
So I checked ATF level COLD and even then it is def over the HOT mark on dipstick. It is much easier to see than hot ATF as it has settled in and is darker.
Anyway, using a small hand pump I removed about 1 qt of ATF.
I will have to see and repeat the exact procedure as before and check the level when hot, and see if it is good enough or if I need to remove more.

Re: That: As the level is above the Full mark even when COLD (even after I drained a quart), should I remove (while cold) some more? I mean it IS def gonna be HIGHER when hot, right? Or should I wait until I can check it hot after driving and getting it hot like before?

I think the simple logic for drain/fill ATF should be:
if Draining while HOT, you're removing expanded hot ATF. But what you're ADDING is new COLD fluid, so you cannot just "add same amount that came out"
That CAN work if you drained it also while COLD, I guess.

 

[ToadU]

Originally Posted by 97tbird
Update:
So I checked ATF level COLD and even then it is def over the HOT mark on dipstick. It is much easier to see than hot ATF as it has settled in and is darker.
Anyway, using a small hand pump I removed about 1 qt of ATF.
I will have to see and repeat the exact procedure as before and check the level when hot, and see if it is good enough or if I need to remove more.

Re: That: As the level is above the Full mark even when COLD (even after I drained a quart), should I remove (while cold) some more? I mean it IS def gonna be HIGHER when hot, right? Or should I wait until I can check it hot after driving and getting it hot like before?

I think the simple logic for drain/fill ATF should be:
if Draining while HOT, you're removing expanded hot ATF. But what you're ADDING is new COLD fluid, so you cannot just "add same amount that came out"
That CAN work if you drained it also while COLD, I guess.


It really isn't a big deal. Way overthinking. It's just how it's done pretty much at every shop and dealership and it never causes problems. Drive and relax and no harm will come to you or the tranny.

 

[CWB]

After the ATF change, especially on 6F35, it's important to clear the fuzzy logic the trans has adapted to for the current (old) fluid condition. Easiest way is disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, then hook back up. It will reset the logic and relearn all the shifting. Otherwise you risk keeping whatever shift issues you had before.

I have been told the TCM does NOT reset on battery disconnect..you MUST have a scan tool with Ford's software to reset it..most shops cannot do that

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

I have been told the TCM does NOT reset on battery disconnect..you MUST have a scan tool with Ford's software to reset it..most shops cannot do that

Well OK, if you say so... but I know after I finished the fluid exchange the trans still had the lazy, flaring, slipping shifts like it did with 90k old fluid. Immediately after 15-20 mins with the battery disconnected, the shifts firmed back up and the laziness and flare was gone. First couple shifts were a little hard but quickly smoothed out.

And you for sure don’t need a Ford dealer to reset it, you can download Forscan for free and reset it in the software as well if you like. Just need an OBD2-USB adapter that works with the Ford data buses.

Forscan