For those of you who use Royal Purple: Cost factor?

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I can get Mobil 1 at Costco for about $23/case. I was wondering how much 6 quarts of RP engine oil costs to see if I even want to make a switch from 1 to RP.
 

Asinine

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Holy crapola! I would hope you would be able to go for a good 15k on oil like that! Perhaps Mobil 1 will be the better option for my WRX. Thanks.
 

Patman

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I've heard a lot of people mentioning they have found RP for around $5 per quart or even less. I think NAPA has it down there in the US.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek: Last time I bought it I had a huge discount from the place. Even then, it was still over $60 for a case
Is that for 12 quarts? If so that makes the RP about $5/qt. I believe that the Costco $23 for Mobil 1 is for 6 quarts, making it about $3.85/qt. Whimsey
 
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Without the discount it was like $90 a case or something. Yeah, why I stopped using it. Mobil 1 is more quality than is really needed and it's cheaper to boot.
 
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I have used the RP and was disappointed when trying to go 6000mi. extended drains. The TBN was real low and I didn't think the cost outweighed the hassle and poor sample results. I am going back to M1., or I am trying Delvac 1300 now with RX, then I may just run the 1300. Any thoughts on 1300 vs Mobil 1 ? Thanks,
 
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Mobil 1, due to economies of scale, has such an advantage in price vs it's competitors. No contracts and vendors to deal with. So you end up with a full PAO and Ester oil for $4-$5qt. It's hard to pass up at times. I sometimes wish I saw huge performance gaps between oils like M1 and other synthetics to separate the performance/cost issue. They are very close these days though. I always end up going back to M1, especially after I visit a Walmart.
 

es

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I live in Singapore and RP seems to be a real bargain here compared to M1 and Castrol SLX. A case of 12qts of RP cost me about US$71 - that breaks down to about US$5.92 per qt. The 4 litre bottle of M1 with supersyn costs about US$44 - US$10 per qt. Castrol SLX goes for about the same price as Mobil. Switching to Royal Purple IS a cost factor for me [Smile] You can check out my UOAs here.
 
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For those of you "unhappy" with RP. Perhaps you need to try the "Longrider" Royal Purple HDEO formulations. Viscosity is quite shear stable and TB reserves are on par with Delvacs and Delos. 10W30 and 15W40 jugs are available. Longrider is one of those "globally" marketed oil platforms. Cheapest SL grade RP case I have seen is 4.50$
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Asinine: ...after 5 oil changes it's like getting the 6th one free! . . . or something like that.
[LOL!] The 6th quart is for keeping the oil above the lower level mark between oil changes. You better keep it handy!
 

Asinine

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Yes, the $23 case was 6 1-quart bottles. I've found that my car likes exactly 5 quarts, so after 5 oil changes it's like getting the 6th one free! . . . or something like that. I hope my "extra" bottle of Mobil 1 didn't start to leak in the move! [Eek!] When things get a little warmer I'm going to put Mobil 1 gear oil in the MT and rear diff. I was going to go RP, but what's the point really?
 
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Hi guys. This is as good a place as any to get started. I've been lurking for quite some time and have directed many to this site. I got here from being disatisfied with Mobil one and RP but for vey different reasons. Never did a UOA but my Vibe GT with 2zz Toyota motor is far from quite and seems hard on oil. High compression and 8200 redline. I switched to M1 5w30 at 5000 mi (3rd change) and didn't like the mechanicle noise. It was actually louder when driving. Next came the RP which was great. Nicely damped and actually felt even better after 500mi in the sump. I was thrilled until I got to about 4k mi on the oil and I could tell it was thinning in this motor. I'm going for 5k changes. RP seemed great but costs too much for a short interval. Thanks to this board I tried Schaeffer's blend 5w30 at 19K mi. It took over 3k mi of the first interval for the oil to 'feel' free in this motor. It was always quiet. I was hoping it wasn't thinning a lot and that the additives were just taking a while to replace the RP chemistry. Seems like that is the case as my second fill of Schaeffers seems just like the first after it settled in. I expect to get some flak from these very unscientific and speculative seat of the pants impressions but my impressions they are. My feelings about M1 and RP were gathered before I discovered this board so they were not influenced by here. I'm using RP in the tranny. [Smile] Thanks for all the great info and HELLO.
 
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Royal Purple has different levels of oil for the consumer. The standard street oils, Racing oils and a great 15W40 Diesel/Auto oil. Personally I think the RP-21 racing oil and the 15W40 diesel/auto oil are the two that I would use. The RP-21 (5W30) in a Mazda and the 15W40 in a diesel. I am presently running the RP 15W40 in my 95 PSD. The price of the oil is on par with most synthetics and the RP-21 racing oil is priced on the top tier. I don't have a gas vehicle that sees over 4K a year, but I would love to see an analysis of the RP 15W40 run in a gas engine that had other analysis on a previous oil for a baseline. [Cheers!]
 

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I know I've been very hard on RP oils in the past, but I had a discussion lately with Patrick Burris, who is one of their technical advisors and is a sponsor on LS2.com where I also moderate. He raised a good point, that I was comparing Royal Purple's street oils to non API certified oils like Redline and Amsoil and GC, where the more fair thing to do would be to compare RP's racing oils, which are non API oils. That is an important fact indeed. I took a look at some of the RP Racing UOAs we've got on here, and indeed he is correct, they are very impressive. And by the looks of things, they can handle street driving no problem and can even handle going 6k or more in a lot of engines.
 
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goodvibes [Welcome!] I agree about Schaffer's blend. I am also using it and loving it. Now I am thinking about trying their ATF. Molakule has good things to say about it.
 
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I just paid $117 a case for RP Racing 21. The local NAPA sells the API oils for $5.99. Summit Racing had the RP API oils for $4.99 but they've had a falling out with RP and no longer stock any of the RP line. The extra $45-$60 a year that the Racing 21 costs is lost in the noise of overall ownership. I'm hoping that the Racing 21 will hold up better than the API 10W-30 and I'll be able to extend my drain intervals to 7500 miles, which will offset the added cost. If it doesn't, oh, well. My goal is to come up with an oil/OCI that I know my engine is getting the best protection from the first day of the oil change to the last. I also want to feel comfortable about the oil being fine with the rare below 0F temperatures to the common 100+ temperatures it may have to deal with. I also expect the oil to be up to puttering around town or extended high speed highway use at any given time. I've had the RP Racing 21 in the car for about 1000 miles now. I like it a lot. The engine has that glass smooth, frictionless feel that I didn't have with the API oil. The Cobb reflash, warmer temperatures, and less oxygenated fuel have helped in smoothing the engine also, but the effect of the oil is noticable. Also, the API oil would show thinning as slightly lower oil pressure within 500 miles an then hold. The 21 is holding solid. Only 4K to the first UOA. I can't wait. [Smile] Ed
 
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Think AMSOIL! With the number of dealers fighting tooth and nail for customers lots of them are willing to sell it to you almost at cost! =)
 
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