When ever the one year is up.In another words anytime.
For 1 year oil changes-when would you change oil?
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Originally Posted By: gfh77665
What is this "winter" thing you guys are talking about? I don't understand...please explain...
Winter is the only time we may have some rain here in Southern California and is the time we turn off the air conditioning in the home (we still need to turn on A/C in the car when we go out for lunch).
Back to the topic, I would change oil twice a year in fall and spring if I live in cold climate like Idaho. If yearly mileage is 12-15k miles, then a good and cheap synthetic such as PP twice a year is perfect.
What is this "winter" thing you guys are talking about? I don't understand...please explain...
Winter is the only time we may have some rain here in Southern California and is the time we turn off the air conditioning in the home (we still need to turn on A/C in the car when we go out for lunch).
Back to the topic, I would change oil twice a year in fall and spring if I live in cold climate like Idaho. If yearly mileage is 12-15k miles, then a good and cheap synthetic such as PP twice a year is perfect.
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winter is hardest on the oil, so change it after winter is done. spring summer and fall are easy on the oil, so it is in good shape going into winter. spring is the number one best time to change.
if you want to change it in the fall, do not change the filter, just drain the crank case and replace oil, using same filter.
in the spring change both the oil and the filter.
if the mileage is small, you can even change the filter every other year.
if you want to change it in the fall, do not change the filter, just drain the crank case and replace oil, using same filter.
in the spring change both the oil and the filter.
if the mileage is small, you can even change the filter every other year.
Hi,
TheOak - It probably is - one way or another!
TheOak - It probably is - one way or another!
I seem to think summer is the hardest on the oil because of the heat buildup and wear on the oil to dissipate it. I would change it early summer so the new oil can take on the heat of summer and by fall and winter you still have enough oil durability left to handle the cold startups. In winter, the engine heat buildup seems minimal to the oil breakdown.
My feeling is winter is the hardest on the oil, and if I were doing a one year OCI I would change it just before the winter. I've run a few one year OCI's but the vehicle I did the one year OCI's was driven at least 30 minutes when it was used and logged no more than 4000 miles in the year.
For the most part anything else I own gets the severe main't intervals as stated in the OM, or the oil changed in June and December.
For the most part anything else I own gets the severe main't intervals as stated in the OM, or the oil changed in June and December.
Superbuick96
Site Donor 2024
I always assumed summer and winter are equally hard on an oil, thats why I use a 6 month OCI May/November
Originally Posted By: TheOak
There are a lot of oils out there now advertising one year changes.
My question is would there be an optimal time to change the oil?
1. Spring
2. Summer
3. Fall
4. Winter
5. It doesn't matter
Logic tells me Fall might be the best. The TBN is high for the upcoming winter colder weather abuse.
Knowing "me" though, I might pick summer because it is warm and "easy" to change the oil then - trying to work in the cold sucks ... but I'm a wimp when it comes to the cold too
Thoughts?
How many miles on the ASL in a year?
Make sure you get a UOA done and remember what Amsoil says about extended OCIs with the 1ZZFE engine and oil filters.
I've run ASL in my 05 and posted here.
We both have the same weather.
I'd change it just before the winter *IF* I was going to do a yearly OCI.
Good luck! Bill
There are a lot of oils out there now advertising one year changes.
My question is would there be an optimal time to change the oil?
1. Spring
2. Summer
3. Fall
4. Winter
5. It doesn't matter
Logic tells me Fall might be the best. The TBN is high for the upcoming winter colder weather abuse.
Knowing "me" though, I might pick summer because it is warm and "easy" to change the oil then - trying to work in the cold sucks ... but I'm a wimp when it comes to the cold too
Thoughts?
How many miles on the ASL in a year?
Make sure you get a UOA done and remember what Amsoil says about extended OCIs with the 1ZZFE engine and oil filters.
I've run ASL in my 05 and posted here.
We both have the same weather.
I'd change it just before the winter *IF* I was going to do a yearly OCI.
Good luck! Bill
I live in Vegas. For my one car with annual changes, I base it on my personal comfort. Summer - too hot. Winter - too cold (you Canadians and Northerners, quit laughing), Spring - too much wind. Late October, early November - perfect.
For vehicles that need more frequent changes, whenever they are due.
For vehicles that need more frequent changes, whenever they are due.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: TheOak
There are a lot of oils out there now advertising one year changes.
My question is would there be an optimal time to change the oil?
1. Spring
2. Summer
3. Fall
4. Winter
5. It doesn't matter
Logic tells me Fall might be the best. The TBN is high for the upcoming winter colder weather abuse.
Knowing "me" though, I might pick summer because it is warm and "easy" to change the oil then - trying to work in the cold sucks ... but I'm a wimp when it comes to the cold too
Thoughts?
How many miles on the ASL in a year?
Make sure you get a UOA done and remember what Amsoil says about extended OCIs with the 1ZZFE engine and oil filters.
I've run ASL in my 05 and posted here.
We both have the same weather.
I'd change it just before the winter *IF* I was going to do a yearly OCI.
Good luck! Bill
Hi Bill,
I wasn't aware of the Amsoil/1ZZFE/extended OCI "situation". Can you give me a short synopsis or a link to your UOA?
Thanks in advance buddy!
Edit: Nevermind, found the thread. Because the 1ZZFE doesn't do well with an Amsoil EAO filter for 25K OCIs the 1ZZFE is an unreliable engine, at least according to many in that thread.
Originally Posted By: TheOak
There are a lot of oils out there now advertising one year changes.
My question is would there be an optimal time to change the oil?
1. Spring
2. Summer
3. Fall
4. Winter
5. It doesn't matter
Logic tells me Fall might be the best. The TBN is high for the upcoming winter colder weather abuse.
Knowing "me" though, I might pick summer because it is warm and "easy" to change the oil then - trying to work in the cold sucks ... but I'm a wimp when it comes to the cold too
Thoughts?
How many miles on the ASL in a year?
Make sure you get a UOA done and remember what Amsoil says about extended OCIs with the 1ZZFE engine and oil filters.
I've run ASL in my 05 and posted here.
We both have the same weather.
I'd change it just before the winter *IF* I was going to do a yearly OCI.
Good luck! Bill
Hi Bill,
I wasn't aware of the Amsoil/1ZZFE/extended OCI "situation". Can you give me a short synopsis or a link to your UOA?
Thanks in advance buddy!
Edit: Nevermind, found the thread. Because the 1ZZFE doesn't do well with an Amsoil EAO filter for 25K OCIs the 1ZZFE is an unreliable engine, at least according to many in that thread.
Originally Posted By: Jim 5
The hardest season on the oil is winter. The easiest in my climate is summer and fall.
If you're going to do it once a year it makes sense in my mind to do it in the spring.
This way the highest risk time of fuel dilution (viscosity killing) and condensation (TBN killing) - winter, happens at the end of the OCI, and with fresh oil in the sump, you don't run all spring summer and fall with the oil in that condition.
Just my own opinion.
I would agree with this, if only changing once per year in a place that has something resembling winter...
I'm most antsy to get my oil out post-winter, and a lot more easy-going about my fall change. The oil's had an easy ride through summer.
The hardest season on the oil is winter. The easiest in my climate is summer and fall.
If you're going to do it once a year it makes sense in my mind to do it in the spring.
This way the highest risk time of fuel dilution (viscosity killing) and condensation (TBN killing) - winter, happens at the end of the OCI, and with fresh oil in the sump, you don't run all spring summer and fall with the oil in that condition.
Just my own opinion.
I would agree with this, if only changing once per year in a place that has something resembling winter...
I'm most antsy to get my oil out post-winter, and a lot more easy-going about my fall change. The oil's had an easy ride through summer.
Cold-cranking ability diminishes in service. So, late Fall.
Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
Edit: Nevermind, found the thread. Because the 1ZZFE doesn't do well with an Amsoil EAO filter for 25K OCIs the 1ZZFE is an unreliable engine, at least according to many in that thread.
It's NOT. Very good motor.
But people just going off and putting in the "best" and they think that they are protected is not a smart thing to do.
Just because a oil company (and I am NOT calling out Amsoil because I'd NEVER do a 15k OCI with Mobil 1 EP or Castrol Edge either) says the oil is good for xxk miles is PURE marketing and something I'd never do without a few of those "useless" UOAs.
Now that there is no companies that do "accurate" ones unless you want to pay Terry $100 each time I guess extended OCIs are out of my book. (and never would be)
I just wanted the OP to think about what he is doing and have all the info. I'd HATE to suggest something here that brand X is good for xxk miles and have something happen.
I'd rather be safe in offering suggestions.
Too bad others don't have the same mindset.
Take care, Bill
PS: Amsoil EAO filters are NOT to be used PAST a 5k oci in a 1ZZFE. FAR from 25k. PER AMSOIL!
Edit: Nevermind, found the thread. Because the 1ZZFE doesn't do well with an Amsoil EAO filter for 25K OCIs the 1ZZFE is an unreliable engine, at least according to many in that thread.
It's NOT. Very good motor.
But people just going off and putting in the "best" and they think that they are protected is not a smart thing to do.
Just because a oil company (and I am NOT calling out Amsoil because I'd NEVER do a 15k OCI with Mobil 1 EP or Castrol Edge either) says the oil is good for xxk miles is PURE marketing and something I'd never do without a few of those "useless" UOAs.
Now that there is no companies that do "accurate" ones unless you want to pay Terry $100 each time I guess extended OCIs are out of my book. (and never would be)
I just wanted the OP to think about what he is doing and have all the info. I'd HATE to suggest something here that brand X is good for xxk miles and have something happen.
I'd rather be safe in offering suggestions.
Too bad others don't have the same mindset.
Take care, Bill
PS: Amsoil EAO filters are NOT to be used PAST a 5k oci in a 1ZZFE. FAR from 25k. PER AMSOIL!
Dr. Haas, Doug Hillary, and Porshe all agree: Change the oil in the spring right after the harsh cold of winter.
Hi,
Built_Well - Well now even my Suzuki Burgman AN650K agrees, the OC indicator has just come on!
Its spring here - 30C today - better get the Castrol 5W-40 and filter ready!
Built_Well - Well now even my Suzuki Burgman AN650K agrees, the OC indicator has just come on!
Its spring here - 30C today - better get the Castrol 5W-40 and filter ready!
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Cold-cranking ability diminishes in service. So, late Fall.
This may or may not be true, depending on the oil (most shear and, if anything, get thinner). This also only affects startup wear. Acids or fuel in the oil and low TBN have negative effects all of the time, whether the engine is up to temperature or isn't even running.
Now, if the vehicle in question is stored and not driven in the winter that changes things.
Cold-cranking ability diminishes in service. So, late Fall.
This may or may not be true, depending on the oil (most shear and, if anything, get thinner). This also only affects startup wear. Acids or fuel in the oil and low TBN have negative effects all of the time, whether the engine is up to temperature or isn't even running.
Now, if the vehicle in question is stored and not driven in the winter that changes things.
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Doesn't matter (much).
Plus, why stop at just one year, as if a day over will cause the car to melt into the dirt. It's becoming clearer to me (and others) that with a few reasonable considerations and precautions, mileage is the more important criteria. That's been borne out in my world by UOAs well over one year that end up with high TBN (and low TAN). My rigs don't get a lot of annual miles/hours but when they are run, they RUN, and long enough to get the oil well heated. Works for me... should work for a lot of others. I'll be hitting two years on some tractors this fall and just ran 14+ months on one gas pickup, am nearing two years on another (a diesel), and was nearing 18 months on the Honda when I changed (stellar UOA). The 14 month pickup UOA is pending. I will dipstick-sample the two year pickup this November (I installed a bypass filter on it a coupla months ago) but by miles, it's only half the way through it's OCI.. longer if you factor in the 1 um bypass filtration. We'll see what the sample shows, but given the oil was freshened up by the extra two quarts added for the new filter, it's likely to be good.
The one scenario where I wouldn't consider long intervals is if the vehicle gets all it's mileage being short-hopped. The long interval works if the vehicle is driven to full temperature regularly, even if that is infrequently. A short-hopper would probably go sludge-monster on you, though a very good oil might stall that off. Interesting test to try (on someone else's car!)
Plus, why stop at just one year, as if a day over will cause the car to melt into the dirt. It's becoming clearer to me (and others) that with a few reasonable considerations and precautions, mileage is the more important criteria. That's been borne out in my world by UOAs well over one year that end up with high TBN (and low TAN). My rigs don't get a lot of annual miles/hours but when they are run, they RUN, and long enough to get the oil well heated. Works for me... should work for a lot of others. I'll be hitting two years on some tractors this fall and just ran 14+ months on one gas pickup, am nearing two years on another (a diesel), and was nearing 18 months on the Honda when I changed (stellar UOA). The 14 month pickup UOA is pending. I will dipstick-sample the two year pickup this November (I installed a bypass filter on it a coupla months ago) but by miles, it's only half the way through it's OCI.. longer if you factor in the 1 um bypass filtration. We'll see what the sample shows, but given the oil was freshened up by the extra two quarts added for the new filter, it's likely to be good.
The one scenario where I wouldn't consider long intervals is if the vehicle gets all it's mileage being short-hopped. The long interval works if the vehicle is driven to full temperature regularly, even if that is infrequently. A short-hopper would probably go sludge-monster on you, though a very good oil might stall that off. Interesting test to try (on someone else's car!)
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You guys are too smart to look at my signature and see what type of vehicle I have. I appreciate the concern.
I was not implying that I would do this specifically.
If I were to change the question a little then I would probably preface the question with the assumption that the vehicle does well with yearly oil changes.
Again, with all of these fancy oils and oil filters out there claiming longer change intervals, I was just curiuos if one's circumstances justified (this should cover having a vehicle that can handle a yearly change too) yearly changes, when would be the best time?
Feedback has been great!
I was not implying that I would do this specifically.
If I were to change the question a little then I would probably preface the question with the assumption that the vehicle does well with yearly oil changes.
Again, with all of these fancy oils and oil filters out there claiming longer change intervals, I was just curiuos if one's circumstances justified (this should cover having a vehicle that can handle a yearly change too) yearly changes, when would be the best time?
Feedback has been great!
Spring.
At least for 6 months, you have really good oil in there.
Any other change season limits your 'good' oil time.
This is also what I believe Jim5 is saying.
At least for 6 months, you have really good oil in there.
Any other change season limits your 'good' oil time.
This is also what I believe Jim5 is saying.
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