Thank god my Taco has a dipstick. At 30K i flushed it out with Redline D4 and added a remote filter kit with a filter magnet from filtermag.com. Every 30K i did pan drains and every 15K i changed out the filter. I took out the remote filter kit and went with a inline filter instead. Now im running Amsoil Universal ATF...95K miles its still rock solid.
Flushed Tacoma w/ D6
- Thread starter AzFireGuy79
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
To answer your question, NO there is no suction on the other side of the disconnected return line. What i was alluding to was instead of POURING in two quarts after flushing two and stopping the engine like in a regular flush, you have to stop the engine and PUMP IN two quarts as there is as you know no traditional "Dip Stick". Then start it up, let two drain into the container of choice. Once 2QTS are in the container, stop the engine and get your two quarts and pump them in throught the filler hole. Reapeat this until you have achieved a full flush. FYI 14 Quarts is overkill in this transmission. I did it because I had gotten a deal on 4 gallons.
Sorry for the confusion let me know if this answers your question.
Yes, I understand now. Doesn't sound difficult. thanks
To answer your question, NO there is no suction on the other side of the disconnected return line. What i was alluding to was instead of POURING in two quarts after flushing two and stopping the engine like in a regular flush, you have to stop the engine and PUMP IN two quarts as there is as you know no traditional "Dip Stick". Then start it up, let two drain into the container of choice. Once 2QTS are in the container, stop the engine and get your two quarts and pump them in throught the filler hole. Reapeat this until you have achieved a full flush. FYI 14 Quarts is overkill in this transmission. I did it because I had gotten a deal on 4 gallons.
Sorry for the confusion let me know if this answers your question.
Yes, I understand now. Doesn't sound difficult. thanks
Thanks for your help AzFireGuy.
I just did mine today with 16qts of D6.
I have access to a flush machine and connected it thru the lines that run into the cooler right behind the grille. Piece of cake, flush only took about 5 minutes. The old fluid looked good but I am at 50k miles. Seems to shift a little more firmly now. I plan on driving for a couple days and then checking the fluid level.
I just did mine today with 16qts of D6.
I have access to a flush machine and connected it thru the lines that run into the cooler right behind the grille. Piece of cake, flush only took about 5 minutes. The old fluid looked good but I am at 50k miles. Seems to shift a little more firmly now. I plan on driving for a couple days and then checking the fluid level.
Originally Posted By: toytaco970
Thanks for your help AzFireGuy.
I just did mine today with 16qts of D6.
I have access to a flush machine and connected it thru the lines that run into the cooler right behind the grille. Piece of cake, flush only took about 5 minutes. The old fluid looked good but I am at 50k miles. Seems to shift a little more firmly now. I plan on driving for a couple days and then checking the fluid level.
Don't most flush machines leave the transmission about 1/2 qt low? I'd check the fluid level immediately.
Thanks for your help AzFireGuy.
I just did mine today with 16qts of D6.
I have access to a flush machine and connected it thru the lines that run into the cooler right behind the grille. Piece of cake, flush only took about 5 minutes. The old fluid looked good but I am at 50k miles. Seems to shift a little more firmly now. I plan on driving for a couple days and then checking the fluid level.
Don't most flush machines leave the transmission about 1/2 qt low? I'd check the fluid level immediately.
The flush machines do seem to be a little low when doing a 'dipstick' exchange because the fluid goes in and out the same single service hose.
I did an 'inline' exchange where you connect both services hoses to each of the the cooler lines and it is more accurate on the machine that I used.
If the fluid level was too low where it would cause shifting problems, I'm sure I'd know right away.
I did an 'inline' exchange where you connect both services hoses to each of the the cooler lines and it is more accurate on the machine that I used.
If the fluid level was too low where it would cause shifting problems, I'm sure I'd know right away.
Originally Posted By: toytaco970
The flush machines do seem to be a little low when doing a 'dipstick' exchange because the fluid goes in and out the same single service hose.
I did an 'inline' exchange where you connect both services hoses to each of the the cooler lines and it is more accurate on the machine that I used.
If the fluid level was too low where it would cause shifting problems, I'm sure I'd know right away.
I've been told by a Toyota tech that his dealer's BG PF-5HO machine usually leaves the transmission a bit low, but usually no more than 1/2 quart.
The flush machines do seem to be a little low when doing a 'dipstick' exchange because the fluid goes in and out the same single service hose.
I did an 'inline' exchange where you connect both services hoses to each of the the cooler lines and it is more accurate on the machine that I used.
If the fluid level was too low where it would cause shifting problems, I'm sure I'd know right away.
I've been told by a Toyota tech that his dealer's BG PF-5HO machine usually leaves the transmission a bit low, but usually no more than 1/2 quart.
Glad I could help! As far as the fluid level is concerned you want to make sure to check the level asap. As long as you start out the check procedure with the transmission completely cooled down it only takes about ten minutes or so to complete with a helper.
I just finished installing my Amsoil Transmission bypass system the other night. I will try to post some pics later this week. So far I am very impressed with the D6. Time will tell if it is more shear resistant than the WS.
I just finished installing my Amsoil Transmission bypass system the other night. I will try to post some pics later this week. So far I am very impressed with the D6. Time will tell if it is more shear resistant than the WS.
Thanks for the tips azfireguy79.
Now to figure out what my transmission fluid heater will do to the check process. May have to wait a few hours for it to cool down.
The warmer works pretty well, and it seems after the truck idles for 5 minutes the trans is coming up in temperature.
Now to figure out what my transmission fluid heater will do to the check process. May have to wait a few hours for it to cool down.
The warmer works pretty well, and it seems after the truck idles for 5 minutes the trans is coming up in temperature.
No problem! Good to see you found the original post. As far as the warmer goes you will want to disable that if possible. I guess it depends on how warm it makes the fluid being that you are required to stay within a certain range as noted in my post. Did you already order the ATL?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
No problem! Good to see you found the original post. As far as the warmer goes you will want to disable that if possible. I guess it depends on how warm it makes the fluid being that you are required to stay within a certain range as noted in my post. Did you already order the ATL?
I don't know if i can; it looks like it's a coolant type warmer with 3/4" hoses going in and out. BTW, the 24mm fill on the tundra is on the driver's side. The pan does have a 14mm drain bolt and the hex check bolt.
No, i haven't ordered it yet, but i'm thinking next spring we'll getter done. Only got 21k miles on the truck now, of mostly towing 8k+lbs.
Do you think it's necessary now?
What can you tell me about the amsoil in line filter you put on your taco? I assume it's a good idea.
No problem! Good to see you found the original post. As far as the warmer goes you will want to disable that if possible. I guess it depends on how warm it makes the fluid being that you are required to stay within a certain range as noted in my post. Did you already order the ATL?
I don't know if i can; it looks like it's a coolant type warmer with 3/4" hoses going in and out. BTW, the 24mm fill on the tundra is on the driver's side. The pan does have a 14mm drain bolt and the hex check bolt.
No, i haven't ordered it yet, but i'm thinking next spring we'll getter done. Only got 21k miles on the truck now, of mostly towing 8k+lbs.
Do you think it's necessary now?
What can you tell me about the amsoil in line filter you put on your taco? I assume it's a good idea.
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
If the filtration is too fine, it may filter out critical additives. I would check with the manufacturer of the fluid to see if this will be an issue.
I did call dave at redline. No issue with their ATF's and bypass filtration. Same with Amsoil.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I seriously believe that the only reason Toyota went to this "sealed" transmission was to create more revenues for the dealerships because it's harder to service/change.
Good to know that someone figured out the finer points of getting it changed out, good on you.
Also good to know that D6 is compatible with the WS fluid Toyota uses.
Well you know the car companies went to sealed ball joints, etc years ago so people would not pump in a little dirt (not wiping the zerk) along with pumping in cheap grease and thus pushing out high quality grease.
This situation is somewhat similar.
Now you're gonna have to change your sig line lol
The reason why Toyota went to a "sealed" transmission is the same reason why many manufacturers got rid of the dipstick-- to stop people from servicing the unit with the wrong fluid, such as Dexron and an additive. In addition, the fluid should last 150k easily under normal service so servicing it isn't a major concern.
You're never going to convince me or any other rational thinking person that Toyota only had their customers best interest in mind when they decided to do this. The bottom line with any business is money, and this was simply a way to increase the money flowing to the service area by making the ATF replacement a much more difficult task.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I seriously believe that the only reason Toyota went to this "sealed" transmission was to create more revenues for the dealerships because it's harder to service/change.
Good to know that someone figured out the finer points of getting it changed out, good on you.
Also good to know that D6 is compatible with the WS fluid Toyota uses.
Well you know the car companies went to sealed ball joints, etc years ago so people would not pump in a little dirt (not wiping the zerk) along with pumping in cheap grease and thus pushing out high quality grease.
This situation is somewhat similar.
Now you're gonna have to change your sig line lol
The reason why Toyota went to a "sealed" transmission is the same reason why many manufacturers got rid of the dipstick-- to stop people from servicing the unit with the wrong fluid, such as Dexron and an additive. In addition, the fluid should last 150k easily under normal service so servicing it isn't a major concern.
You're never going to convince me or any other rational thinking person that Toyota only had their customers best interest in mind when they decided to do this. The bottom line with any business is money, and this was simply a way to increase the money flowing to the service area by making the ATF replacement a much more difficult task.
Donald, when you post INSIDE of someone else's post it makes it confusing as h-e-l-l for readers to discern exactly who said what.
In the future, please make your own separate post, so we can all see what you have to say instead of trying to figure out who wrote what and where they wrote it. Thanks
Below is what Donald inserted into my quoted post above...
==========================================================
Well you know the car companies went to sealed ball joints, etc years ago so people would not pump in a little dirt (not wiping the zerk) along with pumping in cheap grease and thus pushing out high quality grease.
This situation is somewhat similar.
In the future, please make your own separate post, so we can all see what you have to say instead of trying to figure out who wrote what and where they wrote it. Thanks
Below is what Donald inserted into my quoted post above...
==========================================================
Well you know the car companies went to sealed ball joints, etc years ago so people would not pump in a little dirt (not wiping the zerk) along with pumping in cheap grease and thus pushing out high quality grease.
This situation is somewhat similar.
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
What threads were down on a Magnefine? If you have the room add a mount and a spin on transmission filter. Its better than a Magnefine, but many cars do not have the room.
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
What threads were down on a Magnefine? If you have the room add a mount and a spin on transmission filter. Its better than a Magnefine, but many cars do not have the room.
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
Are you sure those are the right part #'s?
I can't seem to find those numbers on the website.
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
Are you sure those are the right part #'s?
I can't seem to find those numbers on the website.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
What threads were down on a Magnefine? If you have the room add a mount and a spin on transmission filter. Its better than a Magnefine, but many cars do not have the room.
I don't remember exactly what the drawbacks were, but i think one was you had to change them more often?
Don't know a lot about them but would like to know more.
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
What threads were down on a Magnefine? If you have the room add a mount and a spin on transmission filter. Its better than a Magnefine, but many cars do not have the room.
I don't remember exactly what the drawbacks were, but i think one was you had to change them more often?
Don't know a lot about them but would like to know more.
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
What threads were down on a Magnefine? If you have the room add a mount and a spin on transmission filter. Its better than a Magnefine, but many cars do not have the room.
I don't remember exactly what the drawbacks were, but i think one was you had to change them more often?
Don't know a lot about them but would like to know more.
You can go probably 30K miles on a Magnefine. And it costs less than $20, so you change it every other year for most people. The Magnefine has a bypass for its media filter but the magnet will still work even if in bypass.
The only negative about a Magnefine is its not as good as a bigger filter. But its 10X or 100X better than what most transmissions have.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
As far as changing the ATF at 21K goes I would say wait till atleast 30K. Thats when I decided to do the first flush on mine.
The amsoil filter I used is a bypass filter setup. I used the BP80a filter mount from amsoil and a BP90 filter. This will give you the ultimate in transmission filtration ( 2 micron absolute). This way you can double or triple your intervals. It really justifys using an expensive synthetic ATF. You just plumb it accross the cooler lines and its enough to drive the filter. The other option which offers less filtration but is still an awesome filter is the magnefine. Just chop the line and fit the inline filter. They are cheap and work. Although i bought the bypass parts for about $55 bucks.
Fluids and cooling are always the things people think of when upgrading a transmission. This thinking is sound but leaves out an equally important item that is substandard in pretty much every transmission on the road, Filtration. You dont have to get the best and opt for a bypass as other filters do a great job. I just figure Im going to own this truck for a while and I would like the transmission to shift like new for as long as possible.
You always give informative information whenever asked; I really appreciate that a great deal. Thanks.
I kinda figured i'd getter done next spring, when i MIGHT have 30k miles. And i think for $55, i'll get that filter done while i'm at it.
What do you mean plumb it across the cooler lines? Maybe i'll go to amsoils site and look it up.
Amsoil claims a 60k mile severe service interval. Do you think that would be sufficient? Or should i just back that up with a UOA first?
I'm not really too keen on the magnafine as of now after a couple threads here on BITOG. But.......maybe they're fine i don't know. I'd imagine ANY filtration is better than none.
Once again, i do appreciate your help.
What threads were down on a Magnefine? If you have the room add a mount and a spin on transmission filter. Its better than a Magnefine, but many cars do not have the room.
I don't remember exactly what the drawbacks were, but i think one was you had to change them more often?
Don't know a lot about them but would like to know more.
You can go probably 30K miles on a Magnefine. And it costs less than $20, so you change it every other year for most people. The Magnefine has a bypass for its media filter but the magnet will still work even if in bypass.
The only negative about a Magnefine is its not as good as a bigger filter. But its 10X or 100X better than what most transmissions have.
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