2013 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L ATF Change questions

Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
772
Location
Upstate, NY
After seeing the other post on here, this got me thinking about the sonata, and its original transmission fluid at 48K and 7-8 years...
I have a couple questions regarding a ATF change on the 2.4L 2013 Sonata. It only has 48K miles on this car, but the fluid is original from 2013 so i'd like to change it out. I will probably use the OEM Hyundai fluid from the dealer, (unless you have a better recommendation) - I used Maxlife Synthetic in the 09 Elantra 3X3, and transmission feels amazing.. but i'd like to do at least 2-3 drain and fills on the Sonata to really refresh the fluid. There are no transmission issues im trying to address, it shifts fast, very smooth (almost too smooth) and direct, with quick engagements. I asked Hyundai how much to service the transmission and they told me $350 :oops::unsure: So i passed on that as i could do it three times for half the price.. So could i just drain the fluid out, measure and add what i take out, without ever opening the inspection port? If i did use the inspection port, can i just run the motor to get a warm again, and see where im at on fluid level, and add or let it drain as necessary? Any one have tips, pointers, words of wisdom? Hyundai says sealed for life, (unless you are willing to pay $350) and we all know what the means. I plan on doing a 3X3 to get it up to par, then drain and fill every 25-30K after, good plan? I dont think this 5 speed automatic is too hard on the fluid, (but you never know with all the computer controlled shifts, lock outs, and everything else that the computer will hide until its too late...)
i'd just like to know there is fresh fluid in the system, so i don't have transmission issues down the road.
Thank you all! 👏🙌

PS: all other fluids have been addressed already, I use 5W20 or 5W30 M1 EP synthetic @ 6K OCI, brake fluid was flushed this year (dealer), coolant was done recently (OEM fluid ) and no PS fluid because EPS

 
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Yes, you can drain cold, measure the amount drained, and fill it with the same amount. If you are going to do this 2 or 3 times, always drain cold and follow the procedure for the first drain. This is what I do on my Volvo and it works just fine. The first change is the most important to get initial wear materials out. There probably won't be much wear materials in subsequent changes unless you go 100k for the next one. Make sure you use very clean containers.
 
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Should be about the same. Since the fluids been in there a while I would level check at the end of your D&F's rather than just replacing same amount. If youre more comfortable doing that just add half quart to what came out. By the way, I used Maxlife at 30k on my optima and it works great.
 

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My Kia and Hyundai dealerships don't carry SP-IV any longer. They're using Type 4M which is backward compatible. Good stuff. Ask if you can bring a couple empty water jugs to fill from their bulk bin. I'm charged $6.99 per qrt. compared to full retail of $14. It is a good plan to do a D/R every 30k miles. Trans fluid is cheap. Keeping the magnet clean is just as important as new fluid. You'll be amazed how much a weak factory magnet picks up.
 
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Isn't service manual saying to put .7L in before warming up and checking level if level check is required?
Then you can 'overfill' a bit and drain via level opening later as well to get correct level.
I do drain and fills lately by volume after car sits in garage overnight so ATF in car is same or about same temp as new ATF.
If you check level via level 'eye' then make sure car is running as there is about 200ml volume difference where level drops when car is running.
 
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Here's my write-up being it looks the same as seen in link previously posted, difference is mine is the 5 speed. The level plug hole was large enough for filling too, as some others have reported filling very slowly by using the top vent.

I did the drain and fill first followed up by the line exchange. Easy to do a line exchange, I think I did 1 quart at a time exchange. The final part I just finger tightened the fill plug so I could bring it up to temp and do the level fill, actually I just drove it a few blocks and filled on a level spot. So what I'm saying is my temp wasn't spot-on, but as in close enough is close enough.

What you call the ' inspection port' is what I called the fill plug, it was a 24 mm plug at the front side that was big enough to fill with a funnel and a 3/8 tube into it from above. When adding the last fill, I added more than enough and let it drain down as I pulled the funnel and tube out and as it slowed to a trickle I threaded in and tightened the fill plug.
 
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09 GLS

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Should be about the same. Since the fluids been in there a while I would level check at the end of your D&F's rather than just replacing same amount. If youre more comfortable doing that just add half quart to what came out. By the way, I used Maxlife at 30k on my optima and it works great.
Perfect! thanks for the links!
 

09 GLS

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Wow, called Hyundai, and its $16.95 a QT for SP-4 full synthetic transmission fluid... Maxlife looks like a great deal at this point, but im trying to keep factory spec OEM transmission fluid in this 2013, so im going dealer fluid route. It even more online!, this stuff is liquid gold.

Edit, i called Kia service, and they wanted $14.74 per QT for SP-4

Can i use Kia transmission fluid that is SP-4? I know the optima, and sonata are the same, and use the same 6 speed automatic, but why the $3 difference per qt?

Thanks!.
 
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Do a google search for Kia sp4-m. It is the exact same fluid as the Hyundai branded, but cheaper. Some Kia dealers sell it cheap, others don’t, but you can order it cheap. I just bought four quarts for $49 shipped. And it’s genuine. While I have used the valvoline atf, for me, it’s “a dextron 6 catch-all fluid”. It will work, and it’s cheap, but my personal preference when it comes to these trannys is OEM. it is my understanding that the “m” version is a slightly lighter viscosity that the regular sp-4, and it’s used in place of the standard sp-4 now. I’ve changed fluids on several hyundais and the best way is to have it on a lift or 4 level jackstands. Use a quart bottle dispenser such as this :
service it from the inspection hole. What I do is fill it until it slowly comes out. Start engine, let it run, shift through the gears, and let it get as warm as possible (135* is ideal) then open the inspection port while engine in park and running. If fluid drips out, reinstall and your good. No fluid drips out, service it until it does. tranny will be happy, and so will you.
 
Joined
Sep 26, 2002
Messages
4,863
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Wow, called Hyundai, and its $16.95 a QT for SP-4 full synthetic transmission fluid... Maxlife looks like a great deal at this point, but im trying to keep factory spec OEM transmission fluid in this 2013, so im going dealer fluid route. It even more online!, this stuff is liquid gold.

Edit, i called Kia service, and they wanted $14.74 per QT for SP-4

Can i use Kia transmission fluid that is SP-4? I know the optima, and sonata are the same, and use the same 6 speed automatic, but why the $3 difference per qt?

Thanks!.
Yes, you can. See my post above.
 

09 GLS

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So it would be foolish to pay another $3 per qt just because of the hyundai badge... Thanks for the info, looks like i will go that route from the local KIa dealer. I still feel $14+ a qt is a rip off. I guess thats why a fluid change at the dealer is over $350. But $100 for fluid and a DIY is way cheaper then a questionable shifting transmission.. thankfully it still shifts great, and i'd like to keep it that way.
thanks!
 
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I don't know about the sonata and some years on the optima were better than others, but he plastic under body panels on mine are a total nightmare. Theres a total of 3 pieces, and 2 of them are clipped together. Even with an impact, this took me around 15-20 minutes to get off sliding around on the ground. If you're gonna remove all the underbody plastic crap to access the trans bolts below, you might as well remove the drain plug with the magnet and clean it. Mine was quite bad with break in crap at 30k. If you're out of warranty there is no reason to stick with OEM and get reamed. Alternatively, AISIN sells an aftermarket ATF specifically for SP-IV. It can be found on rock auto for 7-8 a quart. I would use the money to do more D&F rather than do it once with OEM. My .02.
 
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The Aisin will work, as well as the ravenol. Both are sp-4 specific. Even mopar sp-4 will work. Key word is Specific. Don’t forget shipping costs!
He will have to remove the drain bolt anyway to clean it.
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2021
Messages
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Massachusetts
After seeing the other post on here, this got me thinking about the sonata, and its original transmission fluid at 48K and 7-8 years...
I have a couple questions regarding a ATF change on the 2.4L 2013 Sonata. It only has 48K miles on this car, but the fluid is original from 2013 so i'd like to change it out. I will probably use the OEM Hyundai fluid from the dealer, (unless you have a better recommendation) - I used Maxlife Synthetic in the 09 Elantra 3X3, and transmission feels amazing.. but i'd like to do at least 2-3 drain and fills on the Sonata to really refresh the fluid. There are no transmission issues im trying to address, it shifts fast, very smooth (almost too smooth) and direct, with quick engagements. I asked Hyundai how much to service the transmission and they told me $350 :oops::unsure: So i passed on that as i could do it three times for half the price.. So could i just drain the fluid out, measure and add what i take out, without ever opening the inspection port? If i did use the inspection port, can i just run the motor to get a warm again, and see where im at on fluid level, and add or let it drain as necessary? Any one have tips, pointers, words of wisdom? Hyundai says sealed for life, (unless you are willing to pay $350) and we all know what the means. I plan on doing a 3X3 to get it up to par, then drain and fill every 25-30K after, good plan? I dont think this 5 speed automatic is too hard on the fluid, (but you never know with all the computer controlled shifts, lock outs, and everything else that the computer will hide until its too late...)
i'd just like to know there is fresh fluid in the system, so i don't have transmission issues down the road.
Thank you all! 👏🙌

PS: all other fluids have been addressed already, I use 5W20 or 5W30 M1 EP synthetic @ 6K OCI, brake fluid was flushed this year (dealer), coolant was done recently (OEM fluid ) and no PS fluid because EPS
I've never opened the inspection port over 9 drain and fills. Just measure what comes out and put about that much back in. If it's like the six speed with the tiny fill hole pour very slowly, like 1/4 quart at a time and give it 15 seconds to drain down before pouring more or it will burp oil all over the place since the fill hole is also the vent hole.
 
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I've never opened the inspection port over 9 drain and fills. Just measure what comes out and put about that much back in. If it's like the six speed with the tiny fill hole pour very slowly, like 1/4 quart at a time and give it 15 seconds to drain down before pouring more or it will burp oil all over the place since the fill hole is also the vent hole.
See the link I posted above to solve that issue. I followed his advice and it worked perfectly. No need to go slow.
 
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