2013 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L ATF Change questions

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IIRC the hose to disconnect is marked with yellow paint thou, red one is the line with 'hot' ATF coming out from transmission and going into ATF cooler, yellow - the reverse flow from cooler into transmission.
If red one is disconnected then there may be some fluid coming out from the line during fill process, there should be no fluid coming out if only yellow one disconnected.
Red one can be used to evacuate ATF when doing full ATF replacement, just stop engine after collecting about a quart and then add same volume, repeat.
 
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IIRC the hose to disconnect is marked with yellow paint thou, red one is the line with 'hot' ATF coming out from transmission and going into ATF cooler, yellow - the reverse flow from cooler into transmission.
If red one is disconnected then there may be some fluid coming out from the line during fill process, there should be no fluid coming out if only yellow one disconnected.
Red one can be used to evacuate ATF when doing full ATF replacement, just stop engine after collecting about a quart and then add same volume, repeat.
FWIW I had no problem when I did the red line, but you're probably correct. Disconnecting either one is better than not disconnecting either. It still lets it vent.
 

1 SX

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Okay todays the day! I went to the Kia dealer and picked up the oem synthetic transmission fluid and a $8.47 crush washer for the drain plug 😔 wish me luck guys will post pictures of the magnet and fluid condition.
 
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Not to be taken as an advise, but I didn't change washers on Kias transmissions when doing ATF change, just take washer off the bolt, clean both, flip washer to the other side and put it back on. Didn't have any leaks. I do same thing with oil drain washer, only replacing it every 4th oil change.
 

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Not to be taken as an advise, but I didn't change washers on Kias transmissions when doing ATF change, just take washer off the bolt, clean both, flip washer to the other side and put it back on. Didn't have any leaks. I do same thing with oil drain washer, only replacing it every 4th oil change.
With over 15 years of oil changes I NEVER replaced the crush washer on any oc lol, but in my older age on transmissions I feel like if I’m there “might as well replace it”. Also being as this car has no dip stick I fear a leak or something. For oil I usually just sung the bolt slightly more to re crush it and have never had a leak by doing that.
 
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With over 15 years of oil changes I NEVER replaced the crush washer on any oc lol, but in my older age on transmissions I feel like if I’m there “might as well replace it”. Also being as this car has no dip stick I fear a leak or something. For oil I usually just sung the bolt slightly more to re crush it and have never had a leak by doing that.
return that crush washer, and get dorman 095-149. This is the standard washer that goes on 24mm drain plugs. Google the Kia part cross, its a trans washer. I used this on my miata trans as well. I changed it both times, no sense of risking this on the trans since its such a pain to get to (plastic).


 
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1 SX

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Okay fluid is changed and it shifts amazing!! Direct, fast engagement, smooth even at redline and everywhere in between very happy with the results. Drained just about 4qts and replaced with 4.3 qts to make up what I spilled lol. Fluid was a dark/dirty red almost black and magnet had a ton of shavings, but even with old transmission fluid the transmission still shifted very good - but not as good now 😃 I’ll be doing it in 30k or maybe 3 years.
 

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Okay fluid is changed and it shifts amazing!! Direct, fast engagement, smooth even at redline and everywhere in between very happy with the results. Drained just about 4qts and replaced with 4.3 qts to make up what I spilled lol. Fluid was a dark/dirty red almost black and magnet had a ton of shavings, but even with old transmission fluid the transmission still shifted very good - but not as good now 😃 I’ll be doing it in 30k or maybe 3 years.
Next time try Amsoil SS transmission fluid couple of drain and fill with that and you are good for life . That fluid shouldn’t break down .
 
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The issue isn't so much with the fluid but solids/metal particles that affect solenoids' valves in a bad way wearing them out.
Change the ATF to remove as much contaminants as possible, very valid for first change.
 
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After seeing the other post on here, this got me thinking about the sonata, and its original transmission fluid at 48K and 7-8 years...
I have a couple questions regarding a ATF change on the 2.4L 2013 Sonata. It only has 48K miles on this car, but the fluid is original from 2013 so i'd like to change it out. I will probably use the OEM Hyundai fluid from the dealer, (unless you have a better recommendation) - I used Maxlife Synthetic in the 09 Elantra 3X3, and transmission feels amazing.. but i'd like to do at least 2-3 drain and fills on the Sonata to really refresh the fluid. There are no transmission issues im trying to address, it shifts fast, very smooth (almost too smooth) and direct, with quick engagements. I asked Hyundai how much to service the transmission and they told me $350 :oops::unsure: So i passed on that as i could do it three times for half the price.. So could i just drain the fluid out, measure and add what i take out, without ever opening the inspection port? If i did use the inspection port, can i just run the motor to get a warm again, and see where im at on fluid level, and add or let it drain as necessary? Any one have tips, pointers, words of wisdom? Hyundai says sealed for life, (unless you are willing to pay $350) and we all know what the means. I plan on doing a 3X3 to get it up to par, then drain and fill every 25-30K after, good plan? I dont think this 5 speed automatic is too hard on the fluid, (but you never know with all the computer controlled shifts, lock outs, and everything else that the computer will hide until its too late...)
i'd just like to know there is fresh fluid in the system, so i don't have transmission issues down the road.
Thank you all! 👏🙌

PS: all other fluids have been addressed already, I use 5W20 or 5W30 M1 EP synthetic @ 6K OCI, brake fluid was flushed this year (dealer), coolant was done recently (OEM fluid ) and no PS fluid because EPS
Maxlife will be great in your hyundai.....
 
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