2010 Hyundai Elantra automatic - bad trans or bad fluid?

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Aug 5, 2024
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Hey all. First post here. Gonna try to sum it up with the nitty gritty here.

I used to have a Crown Victoria, it died at about 185k miles last year due to a (second) transmission failure. The (second) transmission was a Motorcraft reman that had been installed a 114k, and started giving me issues at about 183k. 1500-2000 miles later, the trans totally lost forward gears - most likely due to the forward engagement drum developing a crack in it, a common issue with these transmissions. It would slip through 1st and 2nd before staying solid in 3rd and OD. It started to occasionally bang into gear, then one night I was driving home from work and it banged into gear one last time then wouldn't go forward anymore.

So fast forward a couple months, I essentially got a 2010 Hyundai Elantra for free back in October. It had 123k miles on it.
The girl I got it from was getting a new car because she perceived the Elantra to have a bad transmission, and was going to junk the Elantra.
I took it for a test drive and took it off her hands because it didn't seem THAT bad. It now has 134k miles on it, so I've put about 11.5k miles on it.
I got no service history on the car. The only things I know are that the timing belt got replaced 3 months before I took ownership, the paint is good, it now needs the EPS steering coupler replaced, and that the transmission acts wonky 20% of the time and the chick I got it from said that started maybe 3 months before I took it off her hands. To her knowledge the transmission has never been serviced (her mom had it for the first 100k or so, then she took it over for a year or so when her mom got a new car.)

When I first got it, it was slipping when coming out of turns or roundabouts with light-mid throttle application. Say you're merging onto the freeway from an onramp, coming off the onramp onto the freeway it will slip as you try to get up to speed with traffic UNLESS you WOT it. WOT doesn't seem to have these issues.

It was also slipping on the downshift for passing in traffic, and would bang into gear once it finally caught. After 20-30 miles of extended driving, if you got into stop and go traffic it would start to act erratic and slip - get up to speed then have to slow down then reaccelerate, on the reacceleration it would flare and buck before finally getting up to speed, which a few times has led to a P0734 being thrown and the PCM commanding it to stay locked in 3rd.

I added some Lucas stop slip and it seemed to have helped during the winter. The car was also about a pint low on trans fluid so I added some Castrol import (specced for SP-III) and got it up to level.

Now that it's 90+ here every day I'm thinking the fluid is getting baked in the pan just by the ambient temps. Nasty SP-III that probably has never been changed. The car doesn't really do a lot of the other stuff anymore, but now the TC likes to unlock and lock repeatedly if I have light throttle application. It drives me absolutely insane.

This whole time I was assuming that the trans was on borrowed time. My father, being an old school mechanic, advised me not to change the fluid and just drive it till it drops. But I'm starting to think that maybe it's just the fluid that is toast, I don't think the fluid has ever been changed. The car drives perfectly fine and normal like, 75-80% of the time. My line of thinking now is that if the trans was truly shot, it would be acting way wonkier than it does, and I don't think it would have gone almost 15k miles this way.

I'm hesitant to drop the pan and change the fluid because if the fluid is full of clutch material and that's truly keeping the trans going - I don't have the money to rebuild or replace. Not even with a junkyard unit. But at this point I really think the fluid is just....WAY old. And isn't doing it's job properly anymore, additive pack broke down, etc.

So BITOG forumers, what would you do? And just for kicks, say I change the fluid and the trans starts acting way more wonky, meaning there was a lot of clutch material in the old fluid - would it be possible to pull the drain plug and refill with the old fluid, or would it be better to just dump a bunch of Lucas into the new fluid?
 
Not familiar if these units have a pan or not, but drain it out, change any filter if you can, fill with the appropriate fluid and I'd expect improvement. I can guarantee that a fluid "full of clutch material" is going to plug solenoids and cause more problems that what you are exhibiting and is NOT what is keeping the transmission functional currently.
 
Drop the pan and change it. Go with valvoline maxlife if you want to get on the cheap.
Price isn't a big concern for me, it's $30-50 for the fluid no matter what really. I've also seen ATF+4 recommended on here to replace SP-III with, and NAPA just had a sale on Valvoline +4 for like $7.XX/qt. Don't think that sale is still on though unfortunately.

My main concern is that the trans doesn't blow up after I change the fluid, lol. I simply don't have the money to fix it. I've been hesitant to drop the pan/drain plug this whole time due to that, but I really am starting to think it's just nasty degraded fluid.
 
Not familiar if these units have a pan or not, but drain it out, change any filter if you can, fill with the appropriate fluid and I'd expect improvement. I can guarantee that a fluid "full of clutch material" is going to plug solenoids and cause more problems that what you are exhibiting and is NOT what is keeping the transmission functional currently.
Yes, removable pan and filter, also has a drain plug on the pan.
 
The fluid change isn't going to make the transmission "blow up" unless it was ready to do so anyway.
I'm not saying the fluid change directly will cause the transmission to go, but I'm fearful about the age old "change the fluid, no more clutch material emulsified in the fluid, trans slips way more than it did and burns up" issue.
 
I can remember reading that this tranny reportedly REQUIRES Genuine SP III.

Something about plastic components in internal parts that don't mingle well with alternate chemistry.

LOL.

Also beware of issues with timing belt hardware.

I just think that the fluid is the problem.

Two or three cycles of fresh SP III, albeit pricey, could make your freebie good as new.

It is hard to picture somebody doing the timing belt whilst ignoring the tranny fluid, ie I suspect that a transmission service was done with universal fluid.

Good luck.
 
I'm not saying the fluid change directly will cause the transmission to go, but I'm fearful about the age old "change the fluid, no more clutch material emulsified in the fluid, trans slips way more than it did and burns up" issue.
If it is that bad already a fluid change isn't going to kill it. From what you are describing, sounds to me more like a solenoid or valve body issue, especially since the WOT doesn't slip.
 
Price isn't a big concern for me, it's $30-50 for the fluid no matter what really. I've also seen ATF+4 recommended on here to replace SP-III with, and NAPA just had a sale on Valvoline +4 for like $7.XX/qt. Don't think that sale is still on though unfortunately.

My main concern is that the trans doesn't blow up after I change the fluid, lol. I simply don't have the money to fix it. I've been hesitant to drop the pan/drain plug this whole time due to that, but I really am starting to think it's just nasty degraded fluid.
It has a problem it may or may not last. We would do lots repairs on the Ford C3 trans missions that were beat to the past breaking point. They were easy to rebuild but the jest of the story is the real awesome trans rebuilders would know what parts that failed and how to replace the parts with better parts that did not fail. Well worth the cost.
 
I can remember reading that this tranny reportedly REQUIRES Genuine SP III.

Something about plastic components in internal parts that don't mingle well with alternate chemistry.

LOL.

Also beware of issues with timing belt hardware.

I just think that the fluid is the problem.

Two or three cycles of fresh SP III, albeit pricey, could make your freebie good as new.

It is hard to picture somebody doing the timing belt whilst ignoring the tranny fluid, ie I suspect that a transmission service was done with universal fluid.

Good luck.
That is definitely LOL.
 
I'm not saying the fluid change directly will cause the transmission to go, but I'm fearful about the age old "change the fluid, no more clutch material emulsified in the fluid, trans slips way more than it did and burns up" issue.
A simple drain and fill with the correct fluid can only help. Might as well do a pan drop to change the filter. I'd avoid a full exchange at once because of the age, miles and performance issue. Then every month or two do a few more drain and fills.
 
I can remember reading that this tranny reportedly REQUIRES Genuine SP III.

Something about plastic components in internal parts that don't mingle well with alternate chemistry.

LOL.

Also beware of issues with timing belt hardware.

I just think that the fluid is the problem.

Two or three cycles of fresh SP III, albeit pricey, could make your freebie good as new.

It is hard to picture somebody doing the timing belt whilst ignoring the tranny fluid, ie I suspect that a transmission service was done with universal fluid.

Good luck.
I am on a Hyundai forum and they swear up and down about SP-III, but I've also seen it mainly referred to in terms of warranty. This is obviously long out of warranty so I'm not super concerned about staying with SP-III, because I've read around that SP-III is pretty trash. I believe it was on this forum that I read ATF+4 recommended by multiple people instead of continuing to use SP-III as well.

The only reason I know the timing belt was done is because there is a sticker on top of the engine cover that says it was replaced at roughly 119k, I want to say last May. My assumption is that it was done by the local Hyundai dealership, but again I didn't get records for this car, shoot I haven't even ran a Carfax on it, literally just going by what the girl told me and the things I've picked up on while I've owned it. When I pulled some ATF out with a manual suction bulb thing to replace it with the Lucas back when I got the car, it was brown/black, which also points me to believing that the trans fluid has never been changed.

One last data point, when I took it on a recent trip out of state for work, 130 miles each way with the last 30 miles up (beginning 30 miles back home) being hilly/mountainous terrain on the highway - it didn't like that terrain much. It kept gear hunting and flaring quite a bit, even on cruise control, until I got back to more flat straight highway. Not sure if this trans would act that way normally but I know for sure the trans in the CV wouldn't have struggled that much with it.

I'm just going to bite the bullet and change the filter and probably go with a full syn ATF+4 unless anyone has better recommendations, and go from there. The fact that it drives normal a majority of the time (these symptoms happen maybe 10-15% of the time I'm driving the car) really makes me think that its not an actual hard parts (ie clutch disc) failure in the trans.

I would love to get 50-60k more out of this car before it goes the way of every other mid-2000s car from the east coast. It's a nice little fuel efficient commuter car, which serves me far better now than having a big body on frame V8 would. Bonus, it looks good too, the whole car only has some mild scratches on the bottom of the bumpers (girl I got it from would take it out in the woods sometimes) and a couple paint chips from rock dings.

At some point I have to drop the steering column and replace the coupler bushing in the PS motor as well, it looks easy enough but a PITA at the same time. It's been 2-3k miles since it popped the EPS light on, but I'm thinking that's an end of the summer type thing when I have a little more time and it's not 90+ degrees out.

The car drives straight and tight so I think the suspension is pretty good for being mostly original, too.

Being that I got it essentially for free, I don't necessarily mind spending money on it to keep it alive for 3-5 more years - I just don't HAVE the money currently if anything goes catastrophically wrong. But I'm not going to find a car in this decent condition with relatively low (under 150k) miles for less than $5k cash, so upkeeping this is well worth it.
 
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Would Lubegard Red or Platinum also be advisable in my case to add to the fresh fluid? I've seen it highly recommended on here as well.
 
Which motor does your vehicle have? Valve bodies in 6cyl.'s of that year were notorious for sticking and causing the drivability issues you have described. All the LubeGard in the world will not fix that problem.
 
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