Floor jack "adapter" for newer pinch weld vehicles

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So there are those older vehicles that you just jack at the jack point's metal sheet going down, but the newer vehicles seem to be welded together with thinner metal and are jacked with a U shape support instead of on that thicker sheet metal of the older vehicles. I have an older floor jack that I cannot use and people suggests that I should use an adapter to mimic the scissor jack's U or C shape surface.

Any suggestion on what kind to buy or not buy? How safe is this?

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i ahve a set like you posted . i used it on a 2020 jetta recently and they worked fine . seems like it mostly the german cars that have gotten away from center jack points
 
Not really necessary.
A regular consumer hydraulic jack will eventually bend the rails, as you're focusing the weight on 2 points on the metal jack cup.... such that if the emergency jack doesn't have a loose enough tolerance, when you're on the side of the road with a flat, you cannot safely use the emergency jack, but need to call AAA or roadside assistance. I've damaged enough rails since 80's with a hydraulic floor jack

The cup usually has a recessed area, so, it's a lot of pressure concentrated on those 2 points. A slotted jack pad will disperse the pressure along the length (diameter) of the jack pad.
 
My Honda has an inverted T welded into the pinch weld as the forward jack point. As long as the slot is wide enough for the T it should work quite well. But as @HighHy21 suggests, I think they'll eventually crack.

The rear jack point is very wide. Probably better on a hockey puck or a piece of 2 X 4 which dents to conform to the jack point. Be sure to put any elongated jack point across the grain of the 2 X 4 piece or it will immediately crack. Ask me how I know.
 
The cup usually has a recessed area, so, it's a lot of pressure concentrated on those 2 points. A slotted jack pad will disperse the pressure along the length (diameter) of the jack pad
Why does it need to be slotted? The bottom of the slot is flat. Flat is flat.

To me the only way a slot matters is if it's EXACTLY the right depth to weight the bottom of the pinch weld and simultaneously the body at the top of the flange
 
A regular consumer hydraulic jack will eventually bend the rails, as you're focusing the weight on 2 points on the metal jack cup.... such that if the emergency jack doesn't have a loose enough tolerance, when you're on the side of the road with a flat, you cannot safely use the emergency jack, but need to call AAA or roadside assistance. I've damaged enough rails since 80's with a hydraulic floor jack

The cup usually has a recessed area, so, it's a lot of pressure concentrated on those 2 points. A slotted jack pad will disperse the pressure along the length (diameter) of the jack pad.
Hey, sounds like you are describing one of my cars. I dont have the patience for these adapters. Guilty of denting and bending the pinch weld jack points. I recently found one of the adapters in the street, I'll try it when we get a new car
 
I made one out of a piece of 2x4.
I did that but they tend to crack. The ones that look like a hockey puck with a slit cut into it also tend to split in time. I find the urethane ones are the best, but not all are the same, some are too deep imo. I’d rather it sitting on the pinch weld with the urethane supporting against the body. If it’s too deep it just touches the body for better or worse.
 
I don’t understand. Every vehicle I have owned in the last 20+ years had a plastic jack point. Buy the right pad and all is good.

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Found gigantic ones on Scamazon. They fit over the jack cradle their so big. Work great. Have the smaller ones too for lower vehicles. Have a whole slew of them floating around the garage. Don't have a welding machine, so gotta go with the next best thing. The gigantic ones give like a 5" lift added to the jack. Built very well. They come in handy when you're jackin an engine or transmission too.
 
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