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I don't think that since it hasn't cracked yet that it won't. Heads are still cracking on the Jeep forums all these years later. Just watch your temperature and coolant levels and motor on. Once it starts consuming coolant or overheating, make a plan. It's probably worth putting a $300 head on it.
 
I don't think that since it hasn't cracked yet that it won't. Heads are still cracking on the Jeep forums all these years later. Just watch your temperature and coolant levels and motor on. Once it starts consuming coolant or overheating, make a plan. It's probably worth putting a $300 head on it.


+1

Heads can still crack but I wouldn't worry about it, just monitor coolant level. Even if you need to replace it the job can be done in a weekend with basic hand tools. The first time I did one I was able to start on a Saturday morning and finish Sunday night, taking my time.
 
That's the easy part...the problem is that a cracked head fills the oil pan with coolant. Unless you catch it fast (there is ZERO sign of it, aside from the "disappearing" coolant), it wipes the bearings.
 
That's the easy part...the problem is that a cracked head fills the oil pan with coolant. Unless you catch it fast (there is ZERO sign of it, aside from the "disappearing" coolant), it wipes the bearings.


Yep that happens, I've seen it, usually the cam bearings go first and the oil pressure drops to zero at hot idle. Most of the time the driver/owner has been adding coolant for a LONG time though (like months) and doesn't know why. It's not like there is a minor coolant leak and suddenly the engine is toast. There is usually some milkshake in the oil too. Every cracked head I've seen, there has been warning signs before the engine got completely toasted.
 
I'm definitely keeping an eye on all fluids, especially the oil. So far I've got about 500 miles on it and I haven't had a single issue. Temp gauge is rock solid at 190, oil pressure solid at 40 PSI idling and 50-55 PSI at 2k. Yesterday she got a new steering stabilizer to cure a bit of bump-steer, and I went ahead and did a drain and fill on the T-case. I'll be keeping an eye on oil level and condition during this first OC, the previous owner had one done just before I got it. Valvoline used 5W30, which I don't care for in the 4.0. These engines were designed for 10W30 and on the next change I plan on using our house blend HM in that weight.
 
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