I am ready to mount a Motorguard to bypass filter the coolant. Having trouble finding the fittings I would like to use. The heater hoses are 11/16" and 5/8". At least that is what is marked on the hoses. Would like to T into the heater hoses and run 3/8" hoses from the Ts to the filter housing. The only way I can think of is to use 5/8" barbed fittings that screw into a 3/4" pipe thread reducer T, and a 3/8" barbed fitting for the smaller hoses. That's 8 pieces just for the Ts. Suggestions?
Filtering coolant, fittings for heater hoses ?
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I found some heater hose Ts at Pep boys. I'm want to do the same thing but I can't find the time.
They were in the parts sections. That the section to replace screws, door handels, etc. I think they were between 3 and four dollar or less. They were just one piece.
They were in the parts sections. That the section to replace screws, door handels, etc. I think they were between 3 and four dollar or less. They were just one piece.
Ralph mentioned Pep Boys in our conversation about this. I have been looking on line and at the local hardware and NAPA store. I'll have to check out Pep Boys. Thanks.
Here's a 5/8 x 3/8 x 5/8 from Napa that I used for my coolant filter install .... not sure if they have a 11/16 version ...
(click to enlarge)
(click to enlarge)
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Quote:
Here's a 5/8 x 3/8 x 5/8 from Napa that I used for my coolant filter install .... not sure if they have a 11/16 version ...
(click to enlarge)
You should be okay with the 11/16 hose using the 5/8" T's. I really needed to work to get the 5/8 T's into 5/8" hose (NAPA parts) to plumb my heat exchangers' coolant lines.
Quote:
Here's a 5/8 x 3/8 x 5/8 from Napa that I used for my coolant filter install .... not sure if they have a 11/16 version ...
(click to enlarge)
Thanks a million! That's exactly what I am looking for. When I was at NAPA yesterday, and told the clerk what I needed, why didn't he tell me they had those?
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He probably didn't know. My NAPA, in addition to the turnstile display rack, has a "pick a fitting" case for that stuff. They don't deal with these items that often. I can't think of too many who do this sorta stuff.
Quote:
He probably didn't know. My NAPA, in addition to the turnstile display rack, has a "pick a fitting" case for that stuff. They don't deal with these items that often. I can't think of too many who do this sorta stuff.
I just called the NAPA store a few minutes ago and gave him the part number. Not in stock, but he is going to have 2 of them for me tomorrow. Sure hope to get the filter installed tomrrow evening. Thanks.
Is anyone using shut off valves on the bypass hoses?
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I could ..but it just adds too much hardware. The added connections ..cost. I think you're better off leaving enough slack in the line (so you can temporarily make it the highest point in the system) and recovering the lost coolant in the filter change (if that's what you're considering doing it for).
You should see the cobbled up mess I have for my 0w-10 experiment. Way too many connections. Being a minimalist here is a good thing.
You should see the cobbled up mess I have for my 0w-10 experiment. Way too many connections. Being a minimalist here is a good thing.
Yes, I was think about how easy it would be to close the valves when doing a filter change, but also, if I need to do a chemical flush, I would not want that acid running through the filter. This engine has 262,000 miles (approx 16,000 hours) and has never been flushed with anything but water.
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Well, aren't most of the chemical flushes fairly mild these days? I think our aluminum heater cores and rads (if you haven't replaced it) are pretty intolerant of too much of a corrosive agent. The engine typically does fine
So, if you've got a purpose for it, and you think that it will save you time ..do it. I'm just reaching "fitting burnout" ...oh, boy..am I ever. After this bout with testing/experimenting ..I'll have so many odds and ends sitting around .....
So, if you've got a purpose for it, and you think that it will save you time ..do it. I'm just reaching "fitting burnout" ...oh, boy..am I ever. After this bout with testing/experimenting ..I'll have so many odds and ends sitting around .....
Quote:
Well, aren't most of the chemical flushes fairly mild these days? I think our aluminum heater cores and rads (if you haven't replaced it) are pretty intolerant of too much of a corrosive agent. The engine typically does fine
So, if you've got a purpose for it, and you think that it will save you time ..do it. I'm just reaching "fitting burnout" ...oh, boy..am I ever. After this bout with testing/experimenting ..I'll have so many odds and ends sitting around .....
Gary,
A friend of mine with a good bit of working mechanic experience told me about an acid flush to remove the limey looking coating on the inside of a radiator. But he also said if I had an older heater core, it could cause the heater core to leak. Well, I was just thinking, why not leave the heater control valve shut while doing the acid flush, then it won't get into the heater core ? As far as fitting burnout, I already have 2 Motor Guard bypass filters under my hood, and this will be the 3rd one, but I am not burned out yet, ha ha. However, keeping this Jeep running is a constant challenge and an ongoing refinement project. I'm actually planning on replacing the OEM radiator with a good aftermarket unit with brass tanks. I hate the plastic tank "throwaway" radiator that I had to buy from Chrysler the last time I replaced it. But I want to get the whole cooling system cleaned out good before replacing the radiator.
I assume there are small shutoff valves that will fit in the 3/8" hose. I'll do a little searching and see what's available.
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In that case, I would think you could just get one 1/2" ball valve (maybe two) and just plumb it (or them) below/before the filter tap point. That should isolate the flow to/from the heater core and the filter.
3/8" ball valves are surely available (check ebay for really cheap) and hose barbs aren't expensive at all.
Here's a place that has all you need in one stop ..as does McMaster.
Just factor shipping in the price.
3/8" ball valves are surely available (check ebay for really cheap) and hose barbs aren't expensive at all.
Here's a place that has all you need in one stop ..as does McMaster.
Just factor shipping in the price.
Well I have all the parts I need to install it(except valves), and the Jeep is outside with the hood up cooling right now. Hopefully, in a couple hours I will be taking it for a test drive with the coolant filter operating.
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Well, come on!! Don't leave us hanging ..biting our nails
Are you in filtration nirvana yet ..or what???
OK, here's the story. Last night when I went out to do the install, luckily I stuck one of the barbed fitting in the 3/8" heater hose to check it first. Too loose. So I checked the package and sure enough, I bought barbed fittings for 5/16" hose. Took them back this morning and exchanged them and did the install tonight after work. All went well and the filter housing heats up just like it's supposed to. I drove to the bank and back (about 12 miles) for a test drive. No leaks and no changes that I can detect. I will run it a few days (about 6 hours a day on the job) and then change the filter to see what comes out. Many thanks to all who responded to my question and especially Bill Plock for the tip about the NAPA fittings. They made the install much cleaner. I can take digital pics but I am not a computer expert so I don't have the knowledge to post them on the forum. One more thought: I wish I had known about bypass filters for the tranny and coolant years ago. It might have saved me a lot of money and trouble.
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The only side effect, if any, would be some slight loss in heat core output in cold weather. I doubt that it will add up to anything.
Yea, I can't see it being much heat loss. I guess I am now in "filtration nirvana".
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Oh
..that's right
you're using a bypass filter. I keep seeing my coolant filter mount in my head. Your bypass filter should be a virtual brick wall to flow.
Losing one's mind is a terrible waste - Dan Quayle
Losing one's mind is a terrible waste - Dan Quayle
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