So my brother is bout done rebuilding a Caddy 472 that we will be putting in a 69 2dr Calais. He's thinking of either a Baldwin or Napa GOLD filter for breaking in the engine. What say you folks?
Filter for a rebuilt 1969 472 Caddy
- Thread starter 53' Stude
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The Gold since it has higher efficiency.
Napa Gold - nice filter, does well
I'd be more concerned with using the right oil for initial break-in and just use a cheap filter like a Fram Tough Guard. Is your brother using a flat tappet cam? If he is then the right oil and the first 20 minutes is critical. I only use a 30 weight HD oil like Rotella along with a bottle of camshaft break-in additive to make sure there is plenty of ZZDP. After break-in I'd use a better filter like the Napa Gold and switch to Rotella 15w40.
We are using some Rotella 10w30 conventional and some of the Gm lube additive. Then he will use probably QSGB 10w30 or PYB 10w30
My vote goes for the most efficient cheap filter you can get. An OCOD is more efficient than both listed and cheaper, or a Fram tough guard. If you want to cut the filter open, this could be our chance to see if a new Puro is even good for 20 minutes of Idling!
Well, we are going with a NAPA GOLD since that filter # is available then stick with NAPA GOLD
Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
My vote goes for the most efficient cheap filter you can get. An OCOD is more efficient than both listed and cheaper, or a Fram tough guard. If you want to cut the filter open, this could be our chance to see if a new Puro is even good for 20 minutes of Idling!
No idling!!! Until after the initial 20-30 minutes. RPM should be a minimum of 2000 and varied up and back during the break-in. Hopefully plenty of moly-lube was used on the cam and lifters. Priming oil system thru distributor is a must and the oil has to be full, all 7+ quarts.
My vote goes for the most efficient cheap filter you can get. An OCOD is more efficient than both listed and cheaper, or a Fram tough guard. If you want to cut the filter open, this could be our chance to see if a new Puro is even good for 20 minutes of Idling!
No idling!!! Until after the initial 20-30 minutes. RPM should be a minimum of 2000 and varied up and back during the break-in. Hopefully plenty of moly-lube was used on the cam and lifters. Priming oil system thru distributor is a must and the oil has to be full, all 7+ quarts.
Originally Posted By: car51
Well, we are going with a NAPA GOLD since that filter # is available then stick with NAPA GOLD
Can't go wrong with NG. Since my GTOs engine overhaul, Napa and Wix are all It gets.
Well, we are going with a NAPA GOLD since that filter # is available then stick with NAPA GOLD
Can't go wrong with NG. Since my GTOs engine overhaul, Napa and Wix are all It gets.
Guys: this is NOT our first engine build just FYI. We'll probably take it out for a drive for a while and drain that oil out the following day or two.
Is that the GM EOS you're using? I thought they removed the zinc from the EOS back around 2010 or earlier.
Not sure on that to be honest about the EOS. We used some Torco assembly lube also
delete; posted in wrong thread.
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Sounds good, just keep the RPM's up to maybe 2K for a while - say 10 minutes or so so there is enough sling oil off the crank to keep everything wet.
When you go to get the filter, you might try to snag a magnetic drain plug... It's always nice to have it come out on the first drain with just a few small shavings - nothing major.
If it's all fuzzy, better look further ...
When you go to get the filter, you might try to snag a magnetic drain plug... It's always nice to have it come out on the first drain with just a few small shavings - nothing major.
If it's all fuzzy, better look further ...
Was the whole engine rebuilt? Pistons crank heads etc.? There are serious balancing problems with those engines .. If it runs but a little above idle it has a vibration there is a balance problem..
The 368-v8-6-4...425...472 and 500 all had this problem when rebuilt.
The 368-v8-6-4...425...472 and 500 all had this problem when rebuilt.
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