Skip the filter change that costs as much as a barley pop at the local watering hole? Not me.
Who is rinsing and rerolling their condoms?
Who is rinsing and rerolling their condoms?
Filter change every other oil change - anyone doing it?
- Thread starter bighead2586
- Start date
I personally would never do it but for years I had the dealership change my oil and I learned a couple years ago that Honda says you only need to change the filter every other oil change.
Now that I do it myself, I change the filter every time because if Im already under the car and the filter is right next to the drain plug, why wouldnt I change the filter?
Now that I do it myself, I change the filter every time because if Im already under the car and the filter is right next to the drain plug, why wouldnt I change the filter?
What's a condom?
Edit:
Sorry, that response happened before I considered this may be a family-friendly site. I'll see myself out now...
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Yes many are making this point and that's why I'm considering skipping it. My filter is not hard to reach but it makes a mess on the frame and passenger side tire if I'm not careful so that's why I'm considering it.
I look at it as cheap insurance. Im sure its probably fine but if Im under there, Im just going to change the filter out. It kind of goes double with my Accord because it only gets oil changes every 12k and I dont love the idea of running an oil filter 24k.
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Oh wow that's a long interval. Now that I would be uncomfortable with. 5,000 miles for me. That's one of the reasons I am considering doubling up on the filter. If it is on for less than 1 year and 10,000 miles that's half the 20K listed as lifespan.
I normally buy oil filters that are rated for 15-20K. With those filters on my vehicles in signature -- I will run twice or 10K max. For a 10K filter -- change every OCI. My Wife and one of my best female friends both have Subarus whose oil filters are right on top of the engine. I change them out with 10K oil filters each 5K OCI. Everybodys situation is different in life.
So, your reason to not replace every change is what, again? Cost? Convenience? Cleanliness? Effectiveness? Efficiency?
^^^ Sounds like because of this:
"The oil change process is easy overall, but the filter is set up to where it makes a pretty big mess on the frame and also splashes some oil on the tire and rim if I'm not super careful."
I've had a couple of vehicles where the oil filter was a pain to change. If my OCI was pretty short, I'd leave the filter on and run it for two short OCIs.
"The oil change process is easy overall, but the filter is set up to where it makes a pretty big mess on the frame and also splashes some oil on the tire and rim if I'm not super careful."
I've had a couple of vehicles where the oil filter was a pain to change. If my OCI was pretty short, I'd leave the filter on and run it for two short OCIs.
Here's my 485hr car sized cardboard end cap fram that had ran from 2016 to 2021 was parked and then ran again in 2024.
It was on a Kubota diesel engine.
What's significant about this one is it's not a very good filter, back when fram was a four letter F word on here, it's a small filter intended for a car (not a heavy duty diesel filter), it was ran for several oil changes worth of time, I don't think the oil was changed at all, maybe once and it's fine.
It was on a Kubota diesel engine.
What's significant about this one is it's not a very good filter, back when fram was a four letter F word on here, it's a small filter intended for a car (not a heavy duty diesel filter), it was ran for several oil changes worth of time, I don't think the oil was changed at all, maybe once and it's fine.
Ones got 485hrs it running a Kubota 3cyl 900cc diesel. Don't know it's that's all on the same oil change.
When were they selling these?
Just within the last few years or longer?
When were they selling these?
Just within the last few years or longer?
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It's positioned where it's quite difficult to not make a mess under the car and even on the rim and tire.
Buy 20k mile oil and oil filters and change the oil at 5k mile intervals
garageman402
$100 Site Donor 2024
My dad used to have the oil changed on his 55 Plymouth every 2k miles & filter every 4k. I think he was just cheap. It had a cartridge filter but he had it done at the service station down the street. The 53 Chrysler we had before that had shared oil between the engine & transmission (12 qt. total), so he only changed half the oil (don't know anything about the filter, if it even had one).
I do my own & am too OCD not to change the filter, after all it contains "the dirtiest quart", lol. As @ZeeOSix has pointed out, as a filter media loads up the increased delta p will dislodge already captured debris. With super high efficient media that could happen pretty quick.
I do my own & am too OCD not to change the filter, after all it contains "the dirtiest quart", lol. As @ZeeOSix has pointed out, as a filter media loads up the increased delta p will dislodge already captured debris. With super high efficient media that could happen pretty quick.
An oil filter that has a high efficiency based on the ISO 4548-12 efficiency test will actually retain already captured debris much better than a low efficiency oil filter. That is because if it was sloughing off already captured debris, by definition of the ISO efficiency it couldn't come out of that ISO test with high efficiency.
Example was the OG Ultra. It came out so well in Ascent's ISO test because it had high efficiency media, and it also retained already captured debris very well ... it lost very little efficiency as the dP increased as it went from new to fully loaded in the ISO test. Whereas, both the Boss and XP lost a whole bunch of efficiency as they went from new to fully loaded. So the key is to run a filter that has a high ISO 4548-12 efficiency and also has a relatively high holding capacity (up to miles use) rating.
garageman402
$100 Site Donor 2024
Your last sentence goes against Lake Speed Jr.'s thoughts that the higher the mileage rating, the lower the efficiency. Filters that are built to last longer are less efficient so they don't clog during that lifespan, according to him.
I have a new XG filter here, the box printed in 8/24, that says "Dual layered synthetic media provides over 99% dirt trapping efficiency*" The asterisk leads to: "FRAM group testing of filter capacity and efficiency of XG8A, XG3387A & XG4967 under ISO4548-12 for particles greater than 20 microns". The filter inside has a date code of A42823 (Oct. 9, 2024). So "dual layered synthetic material" can be construed as full synthetic? I can barely see inside the louvers in the center tube, the media that I can see looks light brown (as in cellulose). No wire backing that I could see. So by virtue of ISO4548-12, this filter will maintain its dirt holding ability for 20k? I've always been warned against running a high efficiency filter a long time due to clogging possibilities. Of course I would never run it that far, I'd be hard pressed to run it over 5k.
I'm aware of the flashlight testing of the Champion made Amsoil, RP, & FE products, I have tested a current XG a few months ago with no light leakage, so I'm confident these are not leakers.
Thanks Zee!!
He obviously doesn't realize, nor has seen any ISO 4548-12 test data like Ascent did showing that an oil filter certainly can have both high efficiency and high holding capacity (up to miles use raring). And on top of that, good flow, meaning low dP vs flow. Again, the OG Fram is a good example. Fram rates the new version the same, so no reason to say they are making false claims without proof. The Boss and XP are also advertised as high mileage filters, but their efficiency is low. Sure, they take longer to clog, because half of what they capture can't be retained - along the line of LSJr's claim. But not all filters have that kind of performance. Running a low efficiency oil filter for a long OCI is going in the wrong direction.
If it says dual-layer media, it might still have wire backed media. Fram wouldn't rate it for up to 20K miles if it clogs too fast. If it clogged too fast, it would be rated for up to 3K-5K miles instead. If your engine is pretty clean running, and you use it to half its rated mileage then not anything to worry about since you wouldn't be pushing it to the limit.
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