Originally Posted By: 1999nick
With a statement like that, ARCO, my confidence in your advice just dropped down to zero.
Guys, I realize that Arco's suggestion sounds a little off at first glance. Really, think about what he's saying though, and it's far, far more reasoned than what a lot of the engine builders out there say, for instance.
Break in is enhanced by using an oil without a bunch of friction modifiers but with enhanced AW additives. Builders have been saying that for years. Actual lubrication experts here have said that. Remember, though, that most engine builders couch their recommendations into something nebulous like to use a monograde or a special break in oil (monograde or otherwise) or to "avoid synthetic."
Arco understands the reasoning behind that and actually made a recommendation more in tune to those concerns than the builders actually do. ATV oil and other four stroke oil is API approved, usually with a very recent certification, up to and including SN, and tends to be a multigrade rather than a monograde; there's nothing wrong with such oils aside from price. For an actual new motor, as we are discussion here, doesn't this make more sense than grabbing a straight 30 or a non-API break in oil off the shelf?
The real flaw, however, is that the non-ILSAC lube is just that. Most automakers in North America are calling for an ILSAC rated lube, and running a non-ILSAC rated lube is contrary to OEM directions. Personally, with modern engines, I don't think it's going to make a huge difference, and I haven't had any problems with break in. But, it's better advice than some stuff out there.
That brings up another point, on rebuilds. I wonder how many of the camshaft failures we kept hearing about were due to friction modification of ILSAC oils, rather than the ZDDP levels of the ILSAC oils, which actually weren't lower in the first place.
