factory fill oil change out?

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2,081
Location
Los Angeles, California
Hello to all, I've had my newly bought Camaro RS/V-6 for about 4 months now with about 2500K miles on the odometer. In a couple weeks I'm planning on taking a trip to Arizona for a weekend and was wondering if I should change out the factory fill oil that came with it????If I do at this time I'll go witH Mobil 1. Durango
 
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1,087
Location
Germantown TN 38138
Originally Posted By: Durango
Hello to all, I've had my newly bought Camaro RS/V-6 for about 4 months now with about 2500K miles on the odometer. In a couple weeks I'm planning on taking a trip to Arizona for a weekend and was wondering if I should change out the factory fill oil that came with it????If I do at this time I'll go witH Mobil 1. Durango
What does your oil life monitor say? The highway trip will be really easy on the oil, and it is not that long of a trip. I would wait until I returned, and see what the OLM says then.
 
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2,500
Location
Dallas, Texas
+1 on going with what the Oil Life Monitor tells you. I too would wait till you returned on the trip. Highway miles are easy, and every New car my folks have owned has gone on a cross country trip a few days after they have owned it. (BTW, They have only purchased 3 New cars in their lifetimes and are 60+ years old.)
 
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If you are still good with the oil life meter why change it? Like the others say, the highway miles are easy and Arizona is having mild weather now. If your oil is a 5W-30 or similar you will not have to worry even if you are in Flagstaff during a cold snap.
 

Durango

Thread starter
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2,081
Location
Los Angeles, California
Yeah guys the trip from L.A. to Arizona is only about 300 miles generally. I too would wait but at least I will check my oil level and top it off if needed. Currently I don't know what my OLM says (%) but I figure with my driving habits it would indicate it's around at least 60% with the mileage being about 2500K miles. Durango
 
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15,893
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N.H, U.S.A.
2500kmi of break in on a chain motor will kill the oil fast. Its done. ILSAC oil will s-lo-w the final wear in due to FM slickifiers. May want to run ATV oil or 4T or ?? For the next 3-4K OIC; Something with no FM.
 
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1,087
Location
Germantown TN 38138
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
2500kmi of break in on a chain motor will kill the oil fast. Its done. ILSAC oil will s-lo-w the final wear in due to FM slickifiers. May want to run ATV oil or 4T or ?? For the next 3-4K OIC; Something with no FM.
With a statement like that, ARCO, my confidence in your advice just dropped down to zero.
 
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1,565
Location
St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted By: Durango
Hello to all, I've had my newly bought Camaro RS/V-6 for about 4 months now with about 2500K miles on the odometer. In a couple weeks I'm planning on taking a trip to Arizona for a weekend and was wondering if I should change out the factory fill oil that came with it????If I do at this time I'll go witH Mobil 1. Durango
My guess is the factory oil is AC Delco dexos semi-synthetic. I have always changed out the factory oil at ~1000 miles then the manufacturer's interval thereafter. I would use Mobil 1 in the weight the manufacturer specifies.
 
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1,565
Location
St. Louis, MO
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
2500kmi of break in on a chain motor will kill the oil fast. Its done. ILSAC oil will s-lo-w the final wear in due to FM slickifiers. May want to run ATV oil or 4T or ?? For the next 3-4K OIC; Something with no FM.
A "chain" motor? Do you mean an engine that employs a timing chain over a timing belt? I don't believe there is any evidence that engines with timing chains contaminate oil faster.
 
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17,301
Location
OH
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
2500kmi of break in on a chain motor will kill the oil fast. Its done. ILSAC oil will s-lo-w the final wear in due to FM slickifiers. May want to run ATV oil or 4T or ?? For the next 3-4K OIC; Something with no FM.
Yep, don't take a chance with one of them new-fangled OHC timing chain motors. 3K OCIs forever and you might want to look at an oil that comes nowhere close to what GM recommends. Seriously, use the OLM as your guide and use a Dexos 1 oil and you'll be doing everything you can to protect your engine. This design may have some built-in quirks that cannot be corrected with any oil or change interval.
 
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523
Location
LaVergne, TN
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
2500kmi of break in on a chain motor will kill the oil fast. Its done. ILSAC oil will s-lo-w the final wear in due to FM slickifiers. May want to run ATV oil or 4T or ?? For the next 3-4K OIC; Something with no FM.
Are you kidding me? That is some of the most absurd suggestions to run a 4stroke oil in it..
 

wtd

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2,684
Location
southwest Mo.
I say continue to run it. I bought a new 2014 Mustang GT in August and took it on vacation from MO to TX which was about a 1,800 miles round trip and I had a little over a 1,000 miles on it when we started. I have around 4,100 miles on the car and I am still on the original fill oil. I'm going to change it out at 5,000 miles and then go by the OLM which will probably equate to once a year since this car is not my daily driver and won't see that many miles a year. Wayne
 
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28,125
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
With a statement like that, ARCO, my confidence in your advice just dropped down to zero.
Guys, I realize that Arco's suggestion sounds a little off at first glance. Really, think about what he's saying though, and it's far, far more reasoned than what a lot of the engine builders out there say, for instance. Break in is enhanced by using an oil without a bunch of friction modifiers but with enhanced AW additives. Builders have been saying that for years. Actual lubrication experts here have said that. Remember, though, that most engine builders couch their recommendations into something nebulous like to use a monograde or a special break in oil (monograde or otherwise) or to "avoid synthetic." Arco understands the reasoning behind that and actually made a recommendation more in tune to those concerns than the builders actually do. ATV oil and other four stroke oil is API approved, usually with a very recent certification, up to and including SN, and tends to be a multigrade rather than a monograde; there's nothing wrong with such oils aside from price. For an actual new motor, as we are discussion here, doesn't this make more sense than grabbing a straight 30 or a non-API break in oil off the shelf? The real flaw, however, is that the non-ILSAC lube is just that. Most automakers in North America are calling for an ILSAC rated lube, and running a non-ILSAC rated lube is contrary to OEM directions. Personally, with modern engines, I don't think it's going to make a huge difference, and I haven't had any problems with break in. But, it's better advice than some stuff out there. That brings up another point, on rebuilds. I wonder how many of the camshaft failures we kept hearing about were due to friction modification of ILSAC oils, rather than the ZDDP levels of the ILSAC oils, which actually weren't lower in the first place.
 
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4,235
Location
Central Maryland
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
2500kmi of break in on a chain motor will kill the oil fast. Its done. ILSAC oil will s-lo-w the final wear in due to FM slickifiers. May want to run ATV oil or 4T or ?? For the next 3-4K OIC; Something with no FM.
Perhaps no one else but ARCOgraphite noticed, but 2500K miles are 2,500,000 miles. All on the break-in oil. I think the owner got his money's worth out of that factory fill! eek
 
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2,400
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In The Region Between
I think that this timing chain information came from some mechanic in Troll City. It reminds me of the 1970's when I used to take the thermostat out of my car for the hot summer. In Southern California then that was a common practice. Some "mechanic" said it would make the engine overheat by circulating the coolant too fast. trolling
 
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