How does the back of the reservoir look? Not nearly as bad? I'm guessing it was driven on slushy salted roads so the fan sucked in a lot of salty water and deposited on the front of the engine.
Extremely rusty engine bay on 2 year old truck
- Thread starter avacado11
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How does the back of the reservoir look? Not nearly as bad? I'm guessing it was driven on slushy salted roads so the fan sucked in a lot of salty water and deposited on the front of the engine.
Huge difference between Florida and rust belt cars.
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That’s pretty good that you have that thing paid off already. Yeah I think you should easily be able to take that thing 300,000 miles if you take care of it.
I once kept a 1999 Honda Accord for 16 years...put 289,000 miles on it and actually sold it for $1,200 bucks. I figure I probably saved $50,000 by keeping it that long, when I figured in car payments, insurance, excise taxes, interest, repairs (that Accord was very reliable). With that money I was able to pay off my house, buy another one, rent one out. I give a lot of credit to that car and keeping it as long as I did. People don’t understand how much they can save.
I'm pretty anal about maintenance. Hoping for the best as far as longevity. So far, so good.
I get that as I run into them all the time down here. What is unusual is the amount of rust in the short time.
Mine is completely spotless underneath, it looks new!
I believe this is the key to the rusty parts here. It's bad for just about everything to let a vehicle sit for months at a time. Proper storage is a different story but it seems this truck may have sat outside, undriven, for months on end. Who knows. Fortunately the corrosion is restricted to specific parts and specific areas. Touch it up or replace the pieces and you will have a very nice looking truck
I believe this is the key to the rusty parts here. It's bad for just about everything to let a vehicle sit for months at a time. Proper storage is a different story but it seems this truck may have sat outside, undriven, for months on end. Who knows. Fortunately the corrosion is restricted to specific parts and specific areas. Touch it up or replace the pieces and you will have a very nice looking truck
Likely unwashed and covered with road salt or worse that horrid brine. That 2003 Sierra I referred to earlier had a Meer 80 K on it and looked a lot like this at 10 years old. Ground straps all green and snap right off if you try to loosen one, all corroded to death. That was back when gas was $.350-$4.00 a gallon too so I bet he only used it to plow and left it just sit unwashed.I believe this is the key to the rusty parts here. It's bad for just about everything to let a vehicle sit for months at a time. Proper storage is a different story but it seems this truck may have sat outside, undriven, for months on end. Who knows. Fortunately the corrosion is restricted to specific parts and specific areas. Touch it up or replace the pieces and you will have a very nice looking truck
The good news is that most of that isn't so awful. Ive had similar on my old Hondas and Toyotas and kept things going fine. Just take some small strips of sandpaper or better yet a Dremel with a 1" brush and carefully knock that rust down on the castings you can see. A little primer and paint just brushed on will stop it from getting worse. POR `15 is even better but is such a major PITA to use successfully and not waste most of it. Good old rustolium from Wallyworld works fine for that sort of thing. Those spring tension won't get weak for a long time either. I wouldn't sweat them beyond just looking at them a few times a year. A quick scuff with the Dremel brush as best you can then dab on some primer and paint. It won't win a beauty contest but it'll last.
I’ve had cars sit over the years too but nothing like this. Looks like it wasn’t washed a single time in 2 years and always put away wet. Surprised the frame was as clean as it was. the amount of rust on the brackets don’t even look like it could’ve been prevented by hosing down the engine bay once a year.I believe this is the key to the rusty parts here. It's bad for just about everything to let a vehicle sit for months at a time. Proper storage is a different story but it seems this truck may have sat outside, undriven, for months on end. Who knows. Fortunately the corrosion is restricted to specific parts and specific areas. Touch it up or replace the pieces and you will have a very nice looking truck
after a couple weekends I finally was able to clean up the rust. The rusty brackets have little to none rust protection from the factory. They are all unpainted steel. Nothing structural or important, all were just mounting brackets to keep wires/hoses in place. Derusted, sanded, and spray painted so it looks less disappointing. Would’ve been nice if I had a sand blasting station. Didn’t bother with the hose clamps I figure an assorted pack of screw clamps in the glovebox will save me some day.
I went to check my oil level and the dip stick o-ring kept jamming on the rust on the edge of the tube. Was able to get it out but not able to put back completely. Dealer told me “it’s normal the dip stick isn’t supposed to go all the way in”. So I had him pop the hood on another customers Tacoma and proved him wrong. Then told me there’s nothing he could do about it. So I walked out and ordered a new tube and o-ring from Napa. I’ve always heard toyota service was trash but I didn’t know it was this bad.
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You should contact toyota usa about this. Send them your pics.
That rust is BS.
Similar complaints plague the ford truck forums for surface rust on suspension/driveline components under the car. Mine was rusting 6 months old. Since it’s just small parts, I’d go with the advice here, touch up what you want to, drive.
Clean it up, then coat with this product: (note, you will not find anything better at protecting than this)
www.corrosionx.com
There are many products that can slow corrosion. Fluid film and others. Corrosion X makes an array of products that are used professionally in the aviation world. They are superb. However, one product stands out as "flat out amazing" and it's "Max Wax". It sprays on or brushes on relatively thin, soaks into mild corrosion, encapsulates it, and then dries to a waxy coating that does not attract dirt.
It's NOT the same as Boeshield, or LPS-3 or any of the other products that have a waxy or thick consistency. Max Wax is top tier stuff and every bit as good (maybe even better) as the more expensive Ardrox AV-30.
MaxWax dry, long-lasting corrosion preventive coating – Corrosion Technologies
SYNTHETIC, WAX-BASED DRY CORROSION PREVENTIVE COATING Conforms to the scope and intended use of MIL-C-16173D (Grade 1)NSN 8030-00-62-6950NATO 6850-66-132-5848NATO 6850-55-132-6099 The world's most effective and long-lasting corrosion inhibitor spray, MaxWax™ is a tough, synthetic wax-based...
www.corrosionx.com
There are many products that can slow corrosion. Fluid film and others. Corrosion X makes an array of products that are used professionally in the aviation world. They are superb. However, one product stands out as "flat out amazing" and it's "Max Wax". It sprays on or brushes on relatively thin, soaks into mild corrosion, encapsulates it, and then dries to a waxy coating that does not attract dirt.
It's NOT the same as Boeshield, or LPS-3 or any of the other products that have a waxy or thick consistency. Max Wax is top tier stuff and every bit as good (maybe even better) as the more expensive Ardrox AV-30.
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I asked you this in a thread a long time ago, I think with the forum change you were no longer following that thread: Does MaxWax have an odor?Clean it up, then coat with this product: (note, you will not find anything better at protecting than this)
MaxWax dry, long-lasting corrosion preventive coating – Corrosion Technologies
SYNTHETIC, WAX-BASED DRY CORROSION PREVENTIVE COATING Conforms to the scope and intended use of MIL-C-16173D (Grade 1)NSN 8030-00-62-6950NATO 6850-66-132-5848NATO 6850-55-132-6099 The world's most effective and long-lasting corrosion inhibitor spray, MaxWax™ is a tough, synthetic wax-based...
There are many products that can slow corrosion. Fluid film and others. Corrosion X makes an array of products that are used professionally in the aviation world. They are superb. However, one product stands out as "flat out amazing" and it's "Max Wax". It sprays on or brushes on relatively thin, soaks into mild corrosion, encapsulates it, and then dries to a waxy coating that does not attract dirt.
It's NOT the same as Boeshield, or LPS-3 or any of the other products that have a waxy or thick consistency. Max Wax is top tier stuff and every bit as good (maybe even better) as the more expensive Ardrox AV-30.
Clean it up, then coat with this product: (note, you will not find anything better at protecting than this)
MaxWax dry, long-lasting corrosion preventive coating – Corrosion Technologies
SYNTHETIC, WAX-BASED DRY CORROSION PREVENTIVE COATING Conforms to the scope and intended use of MIL-C-16173D (Grade 1)NSN 8030-00-62-6950NATO 6850-66-132-5848NATO 6850-55-132-6099 The world's most effective and long-lasting corrosion inhibitor spray, MaxWax™ is a tough, synthetic wax-based...
There are many products that can slow corrosion. Fluid film and others. Corrosion X makes an array of products that are used professionally in the aviation world. They are superb. However, one product stands out as "flat out amazing" and it's "Max Wax". It sprays on or brushes on relatively thin, soaks into mild corrosion, encapsulates it, and then dries to a waxy coating that does not attract dirt.
It's NOT the same as Boeshield, or LPS-3 or any of the other products that have a waxy or thick consistency. Max Wax is top tier stuff and every bit as good (maybe even better) as the more expensive Ardrox AV-30.
Can this be used for undercoating too?
When it's new, yes, it has a oily odor. When it's dry, not really much of an odor.
Absolutely. Although it's thin when applied, it's not super-watery thin, so don't expect it to "flow" deeply into every welded seam as well as the thinner products will. I use a heat-lamp array when applying it, so it seeps in. The heat helps a lot.
I use something similar. RP-342 which is a cosmoline wax. Same idea. When you heat it or it gets warm out it creeps around. Waxes don't like oil sprays or oil leaks. The undercarriage has to be completely clean of oil for wax to adhere properly. If you've already done an oil spray I don't recommend any wax. Stay with the oil.
The clamps are weaker after rust. Replace. Obviously you cannot replace the frame when its rusty so you treat it. But hose clamps are cheap, thin metal and best replaced.
I have to wonder if it was a perfect storm: warm winter weather with temps staying more often than not above freezing. Lots of salt splash. maybe they idled a lot too, keeps the heat under the hood, that way salt can do its thing.
I'm undecided what I will use on my next new car, RP-342 or Max Wax or what. I suspect nothing will make it last indefinitely, but then again the goal is just "reasonable" life, and most coatings will do that, get some extension of life.
I'm undecided what I will use on my next new car, RP-342 or Max Wax or what. I suspect nothing will make it last indefinitely, but then again the goal is just "reasonable" life, and most coatings will do that, get some extension of life.
