Gun oil article

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My cousin sent me this...Old article, it dates back to 2013. enjoy

Alternative Gun Cleaning Solvent and Gun Cleaning Oil
Posted on December 29, 2013 by Paraclete
ATF and Motor OilGrandpappy

ArmaLite conducted a series of extensive tests and they determined that Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is a very good gun cleaner and lubricant. ATF does a very good job at removing carbon deposits and it also does an excellent job of protecting steel surfaces.

ArmaLite also recommends motor oil as a superior gun lubricant and rest inhibitor. Synthetic motor oil is best but regular motor oil also works well. After cleaning the bore with ATF, you could swab the inside of the gun barrel with 2 drops of motor oil on a clean gun cleaning patch in order to prevent future rust problems.

ArmaLite included the above information in a Technical Note that appeared on their web site at the following link:

Unfortunately the above link is no longer active. Therefore the following information is a direct quote from the above link at the original ArmaLite web site and the following information is being provided for fair use and educational purposes only.

Technical Note 64
Alternate Cleaning and Lubrication Materials for Small Arms Background

ArmaLite officials conducting small arms maintenance training in an allied nation were advised that Military and Police officers often use common cooking oil as a small arms cleaner and lubricant. A 4 ounce bottle of cleaning material common in Europe or America could cost as much as a weeks income for a laborer in much of the rest of the world.
ArmaLite is concerned that improper cleaners and lubricants could threaten the performance of its rifles in critical moments. ArmaLite's staff has therefore conducted a preliminary study to identify inexpensive, effective small arms maintenance materials that are available worldwide.

Findings:

ArmaLite has consulted with Small Arms experts at Rock Island Arsenal and elsewhere, and has conducted preliminary evaluations of the materials they recommended:

Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) as a cleaner and light lubricant. ATF performs admirably as a carbon remover, and protects steel surfaces excellently ("Have you ever seen a transmission that's rusty inside?").

Twenty weight engine oil serves in an environment that is far more strenuous than normally found in small arms so it is normally quite successful. The Army authorities recommend synthetic oils such as Mobil 1. (In fact, one noted authority has used Mobil 1 as his personal firearm lubricant for over two decades.)

No safe copper remover formulation has yet been identified, but government tests reveal that copper removal provides no advantage in a standard military arm. It may serve a useful purpose in cleaning the bore of a rifle meant for extremely precise fire, such as a sniper rifle.

Recommendations:

Employ ATF as a small arms cleaning agent, and follow with 20 weight synthetic motor oil as a lubricant.

Until a commonly available alternate copper solvent is identified, employ a commonly available commercial copper solvent such as Hoppe's Number 9 on firearms intended for a high degree of accuracy.

5 Responses to Alternative Gun Cleaning Solvent and Gun Cleaning Oil
James says:
December 29, 2013 at 11:26 am
Folks,I like this article and if interested in alternatives look at eds red and other combinations here,I and many friends have used eds red for years with great results:


.A mix of basic atf and acetone at 50/50 makes one of the best rust busters have ever used,I apply to say suspension bolts on trucks a few times before working on said suspension.The only thing I have had a tough time with is getting a plastic bottle with hand spray that will handle all the different chemical mixes I have have used from this site,happy thorough yet inexpensive cleaning!
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Bart says:
December 29, 2013 at 1:17 pm
WD-40 is a primer killer , just FYI
Some very inexperienced or new gun owners will find this out the hard way
If it rolls , oil it , if it slides grease it
Another very great lube for firearms is molybdenum
Fills all the little pores of the metal and helps keep wear to a minimum , there is also a very expensive lube out there mostly used for small aircraft turbos called mouse milk , stuff is great . Take care of the tools and the tools will take care of you , guns will last a lifetime with proper care
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Smilardog says:
December 29, 2013 at 6:24 pm
Good Info, I wonder what a good alternative for chainsaw chain lube is?
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PARACLETE says:
December 29, 2013 at 6:40 pm
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon. It is okay to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:
[JWR Adds This Warning: All of the usual precautions for handling caustic and flammable solvent fluids must be taken, such as wearing goggles and rubber gloves.]
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical resistant, heavy gauge PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also okay. Do NOT use a HDPE container, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate. The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to collapse, making a big mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty ATF container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly mixed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. Divert a small quantity, up to 4 ounces per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
Label with necessary SAFETY WARNINGS: RIFLE BORE CLEANER, CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE, HARMFUL OR FATAL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. Flammable mixture! Keep away from heat, sparks or flame. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.
The lanolin can be found at better pharmacies like CVS or Walgreens. Ask the pharmacist, they usually have it in the back, not out on the shelves.
Ed's Red will not dissolve copper fouling, so have some copper remover solution on hand. Be aware that the ammonia in the copper remover can damage stock finishes, and will dissolve brass bore brushes. Have some extra brushes on hand, or use a stainless steel brush.
The next item to have on hand is a quality gun oil. They are all pretty good. Note above that you can make your own from ATF/kerosene mix. If you want to improve on this, add a little lanolin. The lanolin provides longer term protection, since some of the other ingredients will eventually evaporate.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:
Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.
Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5″ strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.
Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average conditions.
If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term use Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmoline substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmoline.
Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.
Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described. It is always good practice to clean your guns twice, two days a apart whenever using corrosively-primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out. [JWR Adds: If in doubt about the priming used in any batch of military surplus ammunition or any ammunition of any description that is made in Eastern Europe or China, clean your guns repeatedly!]
Remember, after cleaning, you can apply a thin layer of oil to protect from rust. Blued or parkerized finishes will still rust. But notice, I say "thin". Excess oil will attract dirt, and can freeze an action in very cold weather.
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Gijoe says:
July 2, 2016 at 9:58 pm
 
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JHZR2

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ATF, like used in Ed's red. Well known for a long time. If Army "Authorities" recommend Mobil 1 20wt, they will do so by letter, by direction. Doubtful this has been produced, at least not a document Ive ever run into... So that one is dubious to me - doesnt mean that 20wt oil is a bad idea, just that anything is specifically endorsed.
 
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Originally Posted by Ws6
So basically...if you're so bad off that you're using cooking oil...use ATF and M1 instead.
I've never used cooking oil or have been tempted. The typical dipstick has enough oil to properly lube an AR. Pat Rogers at EAG's "Filthy 14" rifle proved that if you keep it lubed, it will keep running. He's talked about using about any liquid to lube an AR to keep it in the fight...including urine.
 

Ws6

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Originally Posted by LotI
Originally Posted by Ws6
So basically...if you're so bad off that you're using cooking oil...use ATF and M1 instead.
I've never used cooking oil or have been tempted. The typical dipstick has enough oil to properly lube an AR. Pat Rogers at EAG's "Filthy 14" rifle proved that if you keep it lubed, it will keep running. He's talked about using about any liquid to lube an AR to keep it in the fight...including urine.
Then you didnt read the OP.
 
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The Army Authorities has never advocated for using ATF or Mobil 1 in their weapons, even at the height of the lube debate during the Iraq war. There were reports of soldiers using motor oil on their M249 SAW, so the Army investigated it. They maintained that using CLP is still best for the weapons and regular maintenance, which NCO's were telling the lower ranks: if you're not doing anything, you should be cleaning your gun.... even it is lying around, a sand storm can blow by and dirty up your weapon.
 
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Originally Posted by jjjxlr8
This study was by ArmaLite, not any branch of the US Military.
They did consult with Small Arms Experts at Rock Island Arsenal, which is a US Army installation.
 
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Originally Posted by buck91
Originally Posted by 007
Too much oil of any kind is a BAD thing in ANY firearm!
This is not the common wisdom in AR land.
More oil isn't better. More can be detrimental, where it can drip and lubricate the cartridge case inside the chamber, causing a failure of the cartridge case inside the chamber. There is a sweet spot for lubrication.
 
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Originally Posted by UG_Passat
Originally Posted by jjjxlr8
This study was by ArmaLite, not any branch of the US Military.
They did consult with Small Arms Experts at Rock Island Arsenal, which is a US Army installation.
In reference to people/soldiers in other countries who may not (do not) have the recommended lubes available to them. This is not the military or any manufacturer saying to use engine oil or atf on US soldier's weapons. It was meant to give better alternatives to things like cooking oil to poor and/or poorly equipped foreign soldiers. I'm not sure how hard it is to read the article people...
 
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Motor Oil is fine as a gun lube but not as a rust inhibiter - you will need something else to protect against rust .
 
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Motor Oil is fine as a gun lube but not as a rust inhibiter - you will need something else to protect against rust .
Krown kl-73...its:
Quote
MIL-C-81309E, Type II (Amendment 3), MIL- C-23411 in MIL-C-16173D, Grade 3.
 

JHZR2

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Previously corrosion x was noted as a good option in some threads. They make one for guns and at least two other types. Seems they're all the same except for labeling, but I've not verified.
 
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I'd have no problem using Corrosion X for protection to wipe down all metal parts - for lube on critical parts I'd be inclined to use an oil more specific for the task .
 
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Originally Posted by UG_Passat
Originally Posted by buck91
Originally Posted by 007
Too much oil of any kind is a BAD thing in ANY firearm!
This is not the common wisdom in AR land.
More oil isn't better. More can be detrimental, where it can drip and lubricate the cartridge case inside the chamber, causing a failure of the cartridge case inside the chamber. There is a sweet spot for lubrication.
I've never seen a gun too oily to work, Ive seen several that were too dry to run, including a Glock. If you're talking about oil getting into the primer and causing a failure to fire, that can happen. Ammunition you're staking your life on should have sealed primers to prevent exactly that type of failure. BSW
 
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I've seen shotguns with stained, softened and even cracked walnut at the "head" of the hand (right behind the receiver) from storing over-oiled and muzzles up. I've also seen revolvers with blackened wood grips from over-oiling with a thin lube and that lube migrating. Additionally, I've seen several types of firearms not function properly from a combination of over-oiling but otherwise lack of decent maintenance. (Gumming up with a lube/dirt/fouling combo). Naturally, I'd guess the great majority of us here wouldn't fall victim to such maladies, as we're anal enough to be on a board devoted to the properties and proper use of lubricants. But I've seen both the overly worried and the not-quite-concerned-enough do some amazing things to relatively simple instruments that require no more than a routine clean and modest lube per the maker's instructions.
 
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