Every Other Oil Change, Change Filter????

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Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins

That would be nice to see. To date I have not found any facts pointing to any passenger car legally driven in the USA on public roads will have any longer functional engine life running conventional oil that meets owner manual specs than running synthetic.


Try telling that to Honda 3.5L VCM owners. But before you do, look up some of the pics and posts Trav has posted here in the past. Good Luck.



The presumption here is that OCIs being equal? That is where the flaw resides.

Equipment longevity is a function of good maintenance practices. That does NOT mean that any one particular product or O/FCI is perfect and all others are hogwash.

Any engine can last equally long on either conventional or syn. The differnce is in the ROI for the OCI duration. A good maintenance program sets condemnation limits for wear rates, wear totals, contamination, etc. Then, you manage the package of products to that set of goals, and use the products that offer the highest return relative to the cost.

Using the VCM Honda as the example, it's not that syn will take the car further; that is bogus flawed logic. What you have to do is deterimine the safe OCI duration for any given product, and then find out which is the least cost alternative.

Example: Honda VCM and lube choices and filters.
1) use syn and Pure One filter; sustains your credible condition for 6k miles
2) use conventional and Classic filter; sustains your credible condition for 4k miles
Which is cheaper? If the more expensive option is greater than 50% cost, then it's cheaper to take the conventional route. If the syn is less than 50% greater in cost, it's cheaper to use the syn route. The premium route gave you 50% more distance; did it cost more or less than 50% to get you there? The POINT is to manage the system to an acceptable level of performance. You set criteria and judge each contender to that level. Then apply a cost analysis to see which allows the same condition to exist for less money.

Too many people try to back into this topic blindly. This is not unlike a current onoing thread in the gasser UOA section, but folks cannot see the forest for their blindness among the trees. If one says the following:
"I know syn is good for 5k miles, and I know it's best ...", I have to ask "Best contrasted to what?" Until you establish the abilities of some alternative, using fair criteria objectively viewed, then it's nothing but one-sided rhetoric.

If someone says to me that their engine failed by using conventional, my statement to them is that their lube didn't fail, their maintenance manager failed! If you allow your lube to be run into such a condition that it compromises the engine, then it's YOU at fault, not the lube. That tells me you cannot manage your conditions well and you make poor judgements. I don't care if it's conventional or syn; if you let the oil condition deteriorate to a point where it puts the engine at risk, then you're silly. That is not the lube's fault; it's YOUR fault for not managing the program effectively. To blame a lube for engine failure is to infer to me you have no idea how to manage a maintenance program. If you say to me "5k miles of conventional made my engine sludge up", then I'll say to you "You're an idiot for letting it get that bad." Further, if you over-ran a syn to the same horrific engine condition, it will still be just as bad, but you'd probably blame something other than the lube ....

Read my signature line; any product can be either over or under utilized. That is true of conventional and syn, standard and premium filters, etc.

There is ZERO assurance that syns will take an engine further than conventional. It is possible that they might be cheaper in that total lifecycle ONLY IF they can push the ROI out past the alternative.

Get it?

Premium products (syns and filters) are tools to try to extend the OCI such that there is a postive payout for their added expense. Nothing more; nothing less. There is zero data that proves premium products extend your lifecycle of equipment, when the alternatives are mangaged to the same fair condemnation points.

The issue at its core is this; folks arbitrarily set an O/FCI and then cram a product into it, rather than thoughtfully establishing safe condemnation limits, and managing their products to a fiscal resolution. It is the way we are programmed by marketing and our teachings from others. Only the truly inquisitive manage to break out of that mold.
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Example: Honda VCM and lube choices and filters.
1) use syn and Pure One filter; sustains your credible condition for 6k miles
2) use dino and Classic filter; sustains your credible condition for 4k miles
Which is cheaper? If the more expensive option is greater than 50% cost, then it's cheaper to take the dino route. If the syn is less than 50% greater in cost, it's cheaper to use the syn route. The premium route gave you 50% more distance; did it cost more or less than 50% to get you there? The POINT is to manage the system to an acceptable level of performance. You set criteria and judge each contender to that level. Then apply a cost analysis to see which allows the same condition to exist for less money.

+ 1. Hopefully more people will tend to break out of this mould and understand the cost versus payback argument being repeated above, thanks to Dave
smile.gif
 
What about the OLM that so many Honda owners go by? You can arbitrarily interject a

1) use syn and Pure One filter; sustains your credible condition for 6k miles
2) use dino and Classic filter; sustains your credible condition for 4k miles

scenario if you want to, and type out a long dissertation about it, but thats arbitrarily used just to try to make a point.

Bottom line, like it or not, in a Honda 3.5 VCM, adhering to the OLM, syn IS better.
 
If you adhere to the OLM, it is quite possible that using syn is "better". But how do you know for sure?

This is about setting paramerters to judge criteria, and then monitoring those criteria and adjusting the overall maintenance program to sustain the desired effecte.

Is that a "wordy" answer? Yes.
Is it accurate? Absolutely!


I didn't write the program for OLM in the Honda; I have no idea what decisions they made, based upon some bucket of inputs, in an attempt to get to the goalpost.


If I had one of these Honda VCM engines, I would look for some kind of marker to identify the onset of the problem, and then manage the overall maintenance program to avoid the duration of OCI that would result in the onset of the problem. I cannot tell you what that marker is; I've not studied it deeply enough to know, if one even exists at all.
 
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I've been taking my FCI to 20k miles lately. The last one was with 4 OCI(5k) with Pennzoil conventional. Currently I'm running PP to 10k with my 20k mile FCI.

I'm using a Purolator Synthetic PSL24651, which has 27g holding capacity.

I have comparison pics of the 20k FCI, 3.5k FCI, & 0k FCI.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/3155904/

This works for me because of my driving style, engine condition, and filters/fluids I've chosen for my maintenance. It's not for everyone, but everyone's situation can be unique which can dictate different solutions.
 
For about the past year, I started doing filter changes every other. I maintain 4 cars in my family. I mark an X on the bottom of the filter with a permanent marker to indicate that I didn't change the filter and need to change it next time. Saves money and waste. No downsides are far as I can see. And I use regular filters too, not top dollar filter.

And for those worried about the "dirty oil" left in the filter, my oil filters only hold about 3-4 ounces of oil. I bet there is almost 8-10 ounces of oil left in the engine that doesn't get changed as it is, so the difference is miniscule, especially considering the conservative nature of my oil changes (3K to 6K oil changes in 6 months on average).
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
For about the past year, I started doing filter changes every other. I maintain 4 cars in my family. I mark an X on the bottom of the filter with a permanent marker to indicate that I didn't change the filter and need to change it next time. Saves money and waste. No downsides are far as I can see. And I use regular filters too, not top dollar filter.

And for those worried about the "dirty oil" left in the filter, my oil filters only hold about 3-4 ounces of oil. I bet there is almost 8-10 ounces of oil left in the engine that doesn't get changed as it is, so the difference is miniscule, especially considering the conservative nature of my oil changes (3K to 6K oil changes in 6 months on average).

OMG! Say it isn't so!
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
For about the past year, I started doing filter changes every other. I maintain 4 cars in my family. I mark an X on the bottom of the filter with a permanent marker to indicate that I didn't change the filter and need to change it next time. Saves money and waste. No downsides are far as I can see. And I use regular filters too, not top dollar filter.

And for those worried about the "dirty oil" left in the filter, my oil filters only hold about 3-4 ounces of oil. I bet there is almost 8-10 ounces of oil left in the engine that doesn't get changed as it is, so the difference is miniscule, especially considering the conservative nature of my oil changes (3K to 6K oil changes in 6 months on average).


My FL-1A filter holds close to a qt of oil IIRC. That plus what remains in the sump is a bit much for me which is why I change my filter every time.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
For about the past year, I started doing filter changes every other. I maintain 4 cars in my family. I mark an X on the bottom of the filter with a permanent marker to indicate that I didn't change the filter and need to change it next time. Saves money and waste. No downsides are far as I can see. And I use regular filters too, not top dollar filter.

And for those worried about the "dirty oil" left in the filter, my oil filters only hold about 3-4 ounces of oil. I bet there is almost 8-10 ounces of oil left in the engine that doesn't get changed as it is, so the difference is miniscule, especially considering the conservative nature of my oil changes (3K to 6K oil changes in 6 months on average).


My FL-1A filter holds close to a qt of oil IIRC. That plus what remains in the sump is a bit much for me which is why I change my filter every time.

"One Filter, One OCI!"
 
I have a question. Clearly from this forum and others some diesel guys are going 30K-40K miles on the same oil. Do they change oil filters along the way typically?

On Archoil's website I think they talking about using their additive pack to safely permitted 2 or 3x time on the same oil. They say this can be a huge saving for ships, locomotives, etc. I think they are just getting into consumer sales.
 
Typically, Gale, folks who run such long OCIs are very adept at managing their overall maintenance plan, and that includes filters as well as lubes.

So there really is no way for us to answer, other than with such a wide ranging "maybe ..." that it's really of no value as an answer.

Such long OCIs are often the result of premium filtration and bypass filtration. The FCI is managed often independent of the OCI. used oil analysis and particle count analysis will indicate when oil and filters should be changed on such long durations.
 
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The ratings you are talking about are nominal not absolute. Are these efficiency ratings multi-pass or single pass? Of course a 99.8 percent efficiency sounds great but its a multi-pass efficiency. I would like to know what the single pass efficiency rating is....you have to remember that if it didn't catch it the first pass in your filter that means it went through your engine. Something to think about...my two cents.
 
Originally Posted By: Pistol_Pete
The ratings you are talking about are nominal not absolute. Are these efficiency ratings multi-pass or single pass? Of course a 99.8 percent efficiency sounds great but its a multi-pass efficiency. I would like to know what the single pass efficiency rating is....you have to remember that if it didn't catch it the first pass in your filter that means it went through your engine. Something to think about...my two cents.

Very good inquiry. I myself, along with many others, would be interested in this.
 
Originally Posted By: Pistol_Pete
The ratings you are talking about are nominal not absolute. Are these efficiency ratings multi-pass or single pass? Of course a 99.8 percent efficiency sounds great but its a multi-pass efficiency. I would like to know what the single pass efficiency rating is....you have to remember that if it didn't catch it the first pass in your filter that means it went through your engine. Something to think about...my two cents.

The generally accepted definition of 'nominal' is at a 50% efficiency. That said, there seems to be some leeway and interpretation in the term 'nominal' efficiency. The topic of nominal efficiency vs absolute was discussed recently in this thread. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...ron#Post3230000

If the 99.8% to which is refer is based on the current industry standard ISO test 4548-12 multipass efficiency test, then it is a valid/reliable measurement. It is also closest to an absolute test measurement. As long as all the reputable filter manufacturers are using the ISO 4548-12 multipass test, it's a fair efficiency comparison reference of filtration. And based on the ISO multipass test being the current standard, I would consider any rating based on other than the ISO 4548 test to be unreliable.
 
Exactly, Sayjac.


If one wants to know about individual performance, you'd have to pay for a whole bunch of testing unique to each desired level of assertion.

The standardized testing, presuming the participants fairly apply the protocol, shows how the products reveal themselves relative to one another. That is, after all, the point of standardized testing ... Whether it's single pass or multi pass likely would not change much in the overall scheme.

And I still point to the fact that filter efficiency is moot once they reach a finite level of performance. Once the sump is reasonably clean enough, the wear will drop to practically zero. Having "better" filtration (more efficient) isn't going to make the equipment last any longer. Having a filter with "more" (higher holding capacity) will allow a much greater OCI duration, if you can keep your hands off the wrenches! Let me be very clear here; I am NOT saying filters are worthless! I am saying that once a reasonable filtration level is achieved, then anything below that level is not adding tangible benefit to wear reduction. Better in the lab does not always reveal itself as better in the real world application.
 
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Originally Posted By: qwerty1234
blueoval, I was even thinking about stretching the oil filter and change it every 3rd oil change!

The Amsoil EAO11 on the '04 CVLX is on its third oil load. Originally installed 6/14/12 at 62k miles. Now at 76k miles. Its taking me about 9 months to rack up the 6500 miles Im changing the sump at and the last change was 12/28. Since the trans is fried and I dont expect to get it back online until May at the earliest. After I actually get last 5000 and finally remove it, Itll probably have been on there 2 years and 3 or 4 months.
I have a actual filter cutter now, so expect pics.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnnyO
In an automotive application I can't see skipping a filter change for the little bit of money that a filter costs.


For some, it has little to do with money and more to do with necessity. The question for some people becomes, why waste resources when you don't have to? The same can be said for oil, but that's another topic for another day.

Filters such as M1, FU and NP can go up to 15k miles.
 
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