Eureka! Is THIS the ultimate oil change strategy?

[Spector]

Actually very reasonable. However, as you are already seeing people have their own schedules on what works best for them and if you are attempting to convert the world to your schedule best wishes.
Won't happen.

A pretty resonable approach though, perhaps new car makers could post that in their manuals.

 

[Patman]

Changing oil in February in Toronto is often not possible, too cold and still too much snow on the ground. Plus there is still another few weeks of cold weather left.

I prefer to do an oil change at the last moment before the snow hits, so sometime in late Nov/early Dec, then do it again around April. Then sometime around July or August.

But yes, your basic idea would work very well for many people. My mom only drives 50-60 miles a week though, so this strategy would be overkill for her. I change her oil twice a year, and even that might be too much, I'm only doing it that way right now because I like to see a UOA on her oil during purely non winter months.

 

[goldfinger]

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My mom only drives 50-60 miles a week though, so this strategy would be overkill for her. I change her oil twice a year, and even that might be too much, I'm only doing it that way right now because I like to see a UOA on her oil during purely non winter months.

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Is that using Dino or Synthetic? I drive about that same amount, and I'm looking at the possibility of using Mobil 1 and following that same schedule (2 times a year).

 

[Patman]

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Originally posted by goldfinger:

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My mom only drives 50-60 miles a week though, so this strategy would be overkill for her. I change her oil twice a year, and even that might be too much, I'm only doing it that way right now because I like to see a UOA on her oil during purely non winter months.

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Is that using Dino or Synthetic? I drive about that same amount, and I'm looking at the possibility of using Mobil 1 and following that same schedule (2 times a year).

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Up until recently her car ran nothing but Mobil 1, but on this interval I am trying out Castrol GTX HM in her car. I will probably switch her back to synthetic next interval though (most likely 0w30 Castrol)

 

[Schmoe]

That's pretty good observation for stereotypes, but if there is one thing I've learned at this post, EVERY engine is different. I wouldn't want to generalize to that degree. You got to look at locations like dry and dusty, humidity, miles traveled, etc. etc. IMO, we are all different and for those of us that eat this stuff for breakfast, we want a closer, exact game plan.

 

[Rexman]

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That's pretty good observation for stereotypes, but if there is one thing I've learned at this post, EVERY engine is different. I wouldn't want to generalize to that degree. You got to look at locations like dry and dusty, humidity, miles traveled, etc. etc. IMO, we are all different and for those of us that eat this stuff for breakfast, we want a closer, exact game plan.

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I agree we each know our own circumstances best, not saying you wouldn't have the option of custom-tailoring a plan according to your own needs and preferences. Heck, that's what we all do anyway, even if some of those plans are executed a little haphazardly.

What I'm saying is that this is a "set-and-forget" schedule--that no owner could really get into trouble as far as engine longevity with this plan, regardless of his circumstances.

As an example, sure, Patman might be throwing good oil away on his mom's engine by changing it this soon, but it wouldn't really cost that much more to do one extra oil change a year, and he certainly wouldn't be doing her car any harm by following this strategy.

In fact, with her kind of severe service stop-and-go limited mileage (that's assuming she doesn't just take 2 hwy trips each week of 25-30 miles each), there might be a case that he would be providing "optimal" care for her car by changing the oil anyway after 4 months, even though many would agree he could go longer.

[ July 18, 2003, 06:13 PM: Message edited by: Rexman ]

 

[TheTanSedan]

Yes, it's a good plan. And other service intervals for fluids and factory schedules ought to be worked into a plan to complement it.

Avoid the holidays, etc.

Twice-yearly, yearly and two-year intervals all dovetail nicely with this sort of plan; IMO, nothing keeps a car newer -- longer -- than a set maintenance schedule: "In the spring, we do this, in the fall we do . . . ."

And don't forget to keep up the cosmetics.

 

[Rexman]

In a nutshell, what is the best oil-change strategy that could be recommended for just about every driver, every driving situation, and every type of passenger vehicle?

The answer came to me like a flash in the night (for some reason, you find yourself dreaming about motor oil if you hang out here enough.

):

1) Use Mobil 1 (your choice of grade).
2) Change it every 4 months or every 6000 miles, which ever comes first.
3) Change it during the months of February, June, and October.
4) That's it, folks! No other recommendations needed!

Ok, what are the advantages of doing this?
1) Mobil 1: You are getting an excellent quality synthetic at a Wal-mart 5-qt. jug price. Plus if you are ever down a quart, you can usually find some Mobil, even in places like Podunk Junction.

2) Every 4 months or 6K: We know from 3MP's study that the stuff is good for at least 6K, and every 4 months guarantees you will always have clean syn in your car, regardless of driving conditions.

3) February, June, and October: In February you've just come through the toughest 3 winter months--you might have some fuel or other type of contamination from cold winter starts, so it's best to change it out.
In June, you are facing the hottest part of the summer coming up, so you want a fresh supply of unsheared oil w/renewed additives to withstand the extra high temp stress.
By October, your oil is pretty beat up from all that hot weather driving, so a new supply is needed to get ready for the cold winter ahead.

Total cost: Mobil 1 plus three oil filters = $75/yr. Cheap insurance no matter how hard you are on your engine, not to mention the peace of mind of never having to worry again about your oil.

Ok, that's my take on it. (Never mind that I'm running Redline in mine right now--we're just speaking hypothetically here

)

What do you guys think of this? Can it be improved upon or do you have your own ultimate solution?

 

[Dr. T]

I do 3 oil changes / year. Problem 1. I do 9k during each interval. 2. Cost is subjective. My sump is 8L. Need $65 oil + $20 oil filter each time...that's $85 x 3. My intervals usually work out to March, July, November.

 

[Greaser]

I do my oil changes every 3-4 months..with Mobil oil..reguardless of mileage.Usually the mileage is around 5-6k anyways,do alot of highway miles,but my timing is pretty well what you have posted.I do them both (Jeeps) before hunting season starts in the fall,then after the holiday season,again in early spring ,then again in May-early June..with my summer mix of 10w-30 and 15W-50 Mobil...works out pretty good

 

[JohnBrowning]

THat is simalar to Toyota's. Toyota Owners Maanual recomends ever 4 months or 5000 miles.

 

[3 Mad Ponchos]

IMO if you're running M1 then drop the time requirement unless you hit 1 year.

Cheers, 3MP

 

[Rexman]

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IMO if you're running M1 then drop the time requirement unless you hit 1 year.

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3MP, although I’m fascinated by that long life oil study you guys are doing over at the Paradise garage, I could never bring myself to go a whole year without changing the oil, never mind what you put in there! I like pulling out the dipstick and seeing that clean synthetic on there—otherwise, just can’t sleep at night!

But I’m sure you could go a whole year with the Mobil if you wanted to.
Talked with a Mobil engineer a few years back and he told me about one of the many tests they’ve never made public.

They had a car that they started up, ran a half mile, turned off the engine, let it cool down, started it back up, ran it half a mile, turned it off, etc., --trying to duplicate the most severe service imaginable. They repeated this cycle every day for 3 years without ever changing the oil once. When they tore it down, he said they found the oil was still protecting the engine and that all the engine parts were still in excellent condition. So who knows how far you can stretch this stuff! It’s probably capable of even more than we imagine.

Is there any way we can bribe you guys to bump up the Redline to next in line after the Mobil? For us oil buffs, a head to head showdown between those two would have all the excitement of a shootout at the OK Corral!

 

[3 Mad Ponchos]

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3MP, although I’m fascinated by that long life oil study you guys are doing over at the Paradise garage, I could never bring myself to go a whole year without changing the oil, never mind what you put in there!

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What I meant was, keep your 6k interval but drop your time requirement. So if it took you 4 months or 6 months or 12 months, change it with miles rather than time.

I still change my other car every 5k even though I use M1 in it. It is close to 100% city miles and I haven't had an analysis yet. My main reason is that 5k is easy to remember. I think 7500 would not be a problem but that's too much math.

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Is there any way we can bribe you guys to bump up the Redline to next in line after the Mobil? For us oil buffs, a head to head showdown between those two would have all the excitement of a shootout at the OK Corral!

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The Amsoil is already bought & sitting in the garage. Sorry.

Cheers, 3MP

 

[TooSlick]

3MP,

I almost hate to bring this up, but if the Amsoil you have is more than six months old, it isn't the same additive chemistry they are using now ....

Old Chemistry:

Mg, 300 ppm
Ca, 3000 ppm
P, 1200 ppm
Zn, 1500 ppm
boron, 40 ppm

New Chemistry:

Mg, 850 ppm
Ca, 2400 ppm
P, 950 ppm
Zn, 1250 ppm
Boron, 40 ppm

 

[Patman]

Why the drop in ZDDP? What are they using to make up for the loss in antiwear additives?

 

[Pluto5]

Three times a year strategy works for me. Exceeds the manufacturer's warranty requirements which is good yet saves 25% on natural resources over the outdated 3mo/3k strategy. Use dino unless you are a high milage driver, e.g. over 15K miles a year or live in Alaska.

 

[3 Mad Ponchos]

TS,
Is there a lot number or something I can check? I bought the oil in April I think. So I should be OK but it'd be nice to be sure.

Cheers, 3MP

 

[TooSlick]

Patman,

I think it's a different type of ZDDP chemistry and they may be supplementing it with other additives to help control oxidation over long drains.

3MP,

If you got it in April it should be the new stuff - I think they started coming out with it sometime last fall.

TooSlick

 

[Mark in NY]

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Originally posted by Rexman:
In a nutshell, what is the best oil-change strategy.....
Change it during the months of February, June, and October.
.......What do you guys think of this? Can it be improved upon or do you have your own ultimate solution?

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Rexman-

I have been thinking about what the most cost effective stratigy might be for longest engine life at best cost.
0-40 is great stuff but $6.88 per 5 qt jug for dino vs $4.77 /qt....
I like your choice of months.
For 3 cars that see light power output - no trailers or really high speed hi-way use:
What do you guys think about the above schedule using a good dino like Penzoil. 10-30 or 5-30 for the October and Feb changes while 10-40 would be used for the June change.