0W-20 Oil Preference: Toyota / Lexus

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I was on the PUP bandwagon until I came to the realization that the effort I was putting in trying to find the stuff just wasn't worth the hassle. I'm sure PUP is a great oil, but being as I run 5000 mile OCI any 0w-20 GF-6A, SP full synthetic would hold up just fine. Team Kirkland for me.

2020 Honda Accord EXL 2.0
 

OVERKILL

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Thank you. Is there any significant difference between EP and AFE? As I said earlier I definitely won't get the 20,000 mile benefit of EP, but if is a better formulation, I don't mind spending the extra $2-3 for it. Thanks in advance!
EP is a "more premium" oil and I know Mobil has stricter stay in grade requirements for it and of course it's formulated to last longer in service. I was using it exclusively in our RAM 1500 before I switched to HPL.
 

TipsyTonio

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I was on the PUP bandwagon until I came to the realization that the effort I was putting in trying to find the stuff just wasn't worth the hassle. I'm sure PUP is a great oil, but being as I run 5000 mile OCI any 0w-20 GF-6A, SP full synthetic would hold up just fine. Team Kirkland for me.

2020 Honda Accord EXL 2.0
I'm glad I'm not the only one struggling with this lol. I appreciate the insight!
 

TipsyTonio

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EP is a "more premium" oil and I know Mobil has stricter stay in grade requirements for it and of course it's formulated to last longer in service. I was using it exclusively in our RAM 1500 before I switched to HPL.
Gotcha. Thanks again. I'm leaning towards using M1 EP. I called my local Toyota dealer to verify what was in their 55 gallon drums and they told me I'm better off just getting M1 off the shelf in my scenario, even if they are the ones that replace it for me.
 
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I can't speak to the Lexus or the Corolla but the Highlander owner's manual gives you an out for using a higher viscosity oil.



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TipsyTonio

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I can't speak to the Lexus or the Corolla but the Highlander owner's manual gives you an out for using a higher viscosity oil.



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I noticed that as well but if you check in the second column, first paragraph it says that if I use another viscosity, my next oil change MUST be 0W-20. For that I rather just use 0W-20 all the time.
 
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In a Toyota/Lexus engine you’re going to do fine with most any 0W20 synthetic. Go for the best value. I wouldn’t buy into the hype train of the TGMO, it’s formula has been changed in the last 10 years a few times (if I remember), it’s expensive for what it is, and dealers don’t usually put it in your car anyway.

I’ve been running Mobil1 EP 0W20 for 10,000 mile intervals for my last two oil changes. It’s been great (with an excellent UOA). Pretty reasonable price on Amazon.

Ive also run just about everything under the sun in my previous Lexus’s and Toyota’s....Napa synthetic, Carquest Syntehtic, Amalie, Castrol Magnetic, RGT, Super Tech (far too many times), Mobil1, TGMO, Pennzoil Platinum, a frankenbrew of Amalie/Amsoil/Pennzoil, Quaker State Ultimate durability...oh, and Valvoline Modern Engine (for a year).

Out of all these^^^I’d say the Mobil1 products were the “best” (Mobil1 EP and Mobil1 AFE I’ve used). Castrol Magnetic was my second “favorite” because it was smooth and quiet (now idea why). And the Napa was free.
 
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I’ve got a ‘17 Highlander with the 2GR-FKS 3.5L. I’ve used whatever was on sale at Walmart. The previous two oil changes I used Super Tech Advanced 0W-20 and the latest I used Havoline Lifelong Pro DS 0W-20. Definitely don’t overthink it.
 
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I noticed that as well but if you check in the second column, first paragraph it says that if I use another viscosity, my next oil change MUST be 0W-20. For that I rather just use 0W-20 all the time.
Well…if someone constantly runs at high speed or under high load it doesn’t make sense that a higher viscosity oil would be needed this OCI but not the next OCI. While these two paragraphs contradict each other, it’s far more logical and reasonable to conclude that a higher viscosity oil provides better protection under severe conditions and that this practice is only helpful and not harmful to an engine.
 
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Of your list, I’d go with the M1 EP. However, if you’re going to change it at 5k just save a few bucks and get the regular AFE version. You should also consider Havoline 0w20 from Walmart. It’s comes in 6 quart boxes and is a great value compared to other name brands. At 5k it would work very well. That’s what I have in our Sienna.
 
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I've used pretty much all of the brands bought in a store. I use whatever I can get on sale/rebate. Mobil 1 EP and AFE, PP, Idumitsu, QSUD, Supertech, and others. You can get to 300K+ and the engine wear from a 0w20 with a reasonable OCI will probably not be an issue for you.
 

OVERKILL

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That’s the rat 540 oil of choice and I’m using the 0w20 of that in my modified Accord 2.0t. Sending it off for analysis this week. I’m doing Castrol Edge next and doing an analysis curious to see what the differences will be between the two !
Cool, maybe next we can get the John Wayne Gacy, Ted Bundy and Paul Bernardo oils of choice too, lol. Equally relevant :LOL:
 
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Cool, maybe next we can get the John Wayne Gacy, Ted Bundy and Paul Bernardo oils of choice too, lol. Equally relevant :LOL:
I was just making a statement. Idk why that guy is so hated on these boards. UOA of QSFS show excellent results.
 
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That’s the rat 540 oil of choice and I’m using the 0w20 of that in my modified Accord 2.0t. Sending it off for analysis this week. I’m doing Castrol Edge next and doing an analysis curious to see what the differences will be between the two !
Nothing that’s statistically significant, but part of the “fun” of this board is proving things that specifications already told us same-rated oils would work exchangeably without any difference over the lifetime of the engine.

IMHO, save the $ on the UOA and use it to buy the best air & oil filters you can find. Those will make a bigger difference in the lifetime performance of your engine than any oil with the required certifications will.
 
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