0W-20 Oil Preference: Toyota / Lexus

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Sep 22, 2022
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Good morning everyone,
So I know this can be a somewhat controversial topic and is often a topic filled with a lot of bias, and very little facts, but I am pulling out my own hair trying to figure out which 0W-20 oil to use in my car. So in my last oil change at 4500 miles I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 and it's been working fine. The main reason for choosing it was that there was a $25 Mail In Rebate and the 15 year powertrain warranty was certainly very appealing. However, as of late, it is either sold out everywhere or it is ridiculously priced because of scalpers reselling it. So I am branching out trying to find a readily available oil that I can use for years to come without any issues. I would love to hear everyone's insight on what they would prefer. All of these options bear an GF-6A rating and an SP Service Category so they are as Apples to Apples as can be.
  1. Toyota Genuine Motor Oil: $36.48 for a case of 6 Quarts. It's the same thing our dealers are supposed to be using (although theirs come in 55 gallon drums) and I would certainly hope that it is readily available at any dealer. I understand that it is made by Exxon, but according to my research on other forums, it is not the same as simply purchasing Mobil 1 off the shelf as it has a special formulation requested by Toyota that has a buttload of moly compared to the off the shelf variants of Mobil oil. Some have said it's a great thing, while some believe it is not. The jury is still out on that one. I did however notice that compared to the PUP in my car, the TGMO in our Highlander was a lot more liquidy and it was dripping off the dip stick easier.
  2. Mobil 1: Roughly $15 for a 5 quart jug after mail-in rebate. I am considering either the Extended Performance or the Advanced Fuel Economy variant. My Oil Change Interval is 5,000 miles so I won't use it for the 20,000 miles that EP is rated for, but if it is a better formulation I don't mind using it at all.
  3. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum: $25 for a 5 Quart Jug in a normal world, $49 currently. If it comes highly recommended I will try sourcing it somehow but as stated, I'm flexible on what I should use.
I would love everyone's feedback on that. I will be using this oil in my '22 IS350, but I intend to also use it in our '22 Highlander V6 as well as our '16 Corolla. While I know that some advocate for using a higher weight oil such as 5W-20, that is not something that I am interested in doing as I want to minimize the risk of voiding my warranty as much as possible, especially since the manual calls for 0W-20 GF-6A oil. Thank you all!
 
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You have a lot going on there. For one thing an oil in the same grade but with a different winter rating is not a higher weight oil.

Secondly if you are looking for mainstream oil with the same API license you will never ever see a difference. Get the one with the lowest cost.

Thirdly the warranty is not predicted on grade.
 
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I've been using this.

0W-20.jpg
 

TipsyTonio

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Sep 22, 2022
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If you have a warranty issue where they ask to see records AND you do your own oil changes, you’re probably screwed anyway, so…
Well I'm not worried about the records because I save all of my purchase receipts for oils and filters and I also forgot to mention this, but I buy the oil and take to the dealer to have them replace it. They only charge me $24.95 for the labor. So I get a record that way as well.
 

TipsyTonio

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Not a big fan of the TGMO, it uses very light bases and a buttload of VII polymer, that's how it gets its extremely high VI.

I'd personally spring for one of the Mobil products, whatever you can get cheapest.
Thank you. Is there any significant difference between EP and AFE? As I said earlier I definitely won't get the 20,000 mile benefit of EP, but if is a better formulation, I don't mind spending the extra $2-3 for it. Thanks in advance!
 
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Thank you. Is there any significant difference between EP and AFE? As I said earlier I definitely won't get the 20,000 mile benefit of EP, but if is a better formulation, I don't mind spending the extra $2-3 for it. Thanks in advance!
Very doubtful that you will get the full 20K out of a DI car! My DI Mazda CX-5 will likely see a April/October OCI every year!
 
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I keep my oil choices on new vehicles pretty simple.

If I'm keeping a new vehicle all its useful life, I'm sticking with thickest mfg certified oils during warranty, and thickest mfg specified grade only after. Minimize engine wear, protect engine as best as I know how.

If I'm trading before it starts falling apart, I'm sticking with the thinnest/cheapest mfg certified oils during warranty, and thinnest/cheapest mfg specified grade only after. Maximize fuel economy, get out after the good part!

I'm not a tribologist with a degree in engine design. This is just what makes sense to me without going all crazy obsessive.
 

TipsyTonio

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Sep 22, 2022
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I keep my oil choices on new vehicles pretty simple.

If I'm keeping a new vehicle all its useful life, I'm sticking with thickest mfg certified oils during warranty, and thickest mfg specified grade only after. Minimize engine wear, protect engine as best as I know how.

If I'm trading before it starts falling apart, I'm sticking with the thinnest/cheapest mfg certified oils during warranty, and thinnest/cheapest mfg specified grade only after. Maximize fuel economy, get out after the good part!
Thank you. This is actually very helpful. Would you say that M1 EP would fall under the thick category?
 
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Thank you. This is actually very helpful. Would you say that M1 EP would fall under the thick category?
You will have to look at PDS's of each oil. M1 can get skimpy on details but they are one of the thicker brands in general.

And most people on this forum that are way smarter than me are going to tell you the viscosity variances in-grade are of no consequence and I pretty much agree, but this is one of those feel good things that just makes me more comfortable, and you seem to be the obsessive type. 😁
 

TipsyTonio

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Sep 22, 2022
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You will have to look at PDS's of each oil. M1 can get skimpy on details but they are one of the thicker brands in general.

And most people on this forum that are way smarter than me are going to tell you the viscosity variances in-grade are of no consequence and I pretty much agree, but this is one of those feel good things that just makes me more comfortable, and you seem to be the obsessive type. 😁
You hit the nail on the head for sure! What should be a simple thing such as selecting oil has been very stress inducing for me these last two nights lmao
 
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Thank you. This is actually very helpful. Would you say that M1 EP would fall under the thick category?
If it falls within the grade designation there’s really no meaningful difference. You need to increase the grade to obtain anything that will ever make a difference.

And it’s really about the HT/HS anyway.
 
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