Ester oil and nikasil cylinders, good or bad?

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Originally Posted by JPowell490
I have a UOA posted in the motorcycle section for Motul 300V 10w40 Motorcycle Competition oil. I also have the plated cylinder walls in my 2000 ZX12R.

My wear numbers were a bit high on my first run through.

I may send in the second soon.

Oh yes, why are you running car oil and not the motorcycle specific?


Hey, can you or anyone else explain, why would the wear numbers be higher using a better oil? I am expecting low wear numbers, well at least I hope se. But I would really like to know the reason of higher wear in your case.

I used car oil since it contains friction modifiers, which motorcycle specific oil doesn´t. Since I have separate transmission oil and dry clutch, this shouldn´t be an issue.
 
you used
Motul 300V Competition 15W-50

almost always (i have yet to see it not) racing/competition oil is meant for a single use and dumped.
its not for several hundred miles. certainly not for thousands.
its for a race (or part of a long race like le mans 24 where they can change it mid race)
it does not have all of the detergents and so on because its going to be dumped and the motor torn down and cleaned
manually. its not for a 100k miles or half mil...it for 500ish miles or less

in my dealings with amsoil racing oil...they say 5hrs of use. my top speed is 70ish and the fuel tank would need a refill twice in 5hrs to go that 350miles that the oil will last.

in a nutshell, you picked the wrong oil

steve

fyi, go look at the corvette using redline that has 335 pages of replies for that ester oil use.
 
Apparently I really chose the wrong type of oil. But does that mean it is really useless in comparison to the other oils at, let´s say, 1500 miles? I am aware of it not having as much additives for cleaning. But still, if I change it at 2000 miles, wouldn´t it still be much better for the engine than a regular oil at aprox. 6500 miles?

For the next change I will use a different type of oil. Although once I read a topic, not sure on which forum, where a member sent a message to Motul itself about using this oil for everyday driving. They said it was fine, just to change it more often.
 
It states the TBN of 8.5. is that on the same scale as the TBN that would be reported by Blackstone?

That oil has plenty of additive to go a normal oci.

Say the oil was meant to be pitched after one race, that means it is depleted after one race, which would mean toward the end of the race the oil was marginal at best in terms of the protection it was providing. I wouldn't want to run it, ever. From that, I tend to stand on the side of running it for a normal oci based on the TBN.
 
I have to admit I am really confused right now. Some people say the oil is ok for a normal OCI, while other say it is more or less useless after a race or two.
I have read some other post on this forum and a situation is the same. One member wanted to use 300V Competition oil in his Pontiac and change it a little more frequently, although still put some mileage on it first. While some were against it, other said Motul 300V Competition is a racing oil suitable for street use, since it contains enough additives and detergents. I remember someone also posting a Blackstone lab result after about 5000 miles and the results were ok.

I really wonder now whether it is ok to run it or not. I realize this is the racing oil which is MEANT for racing, although many claim (including Motul) it should be ok for the street.
 
P.S.: I am not sure whether Motul claims that, I just know that some of the people on this forum said they contacted Motul and this was their answer. I don´t have any real evidence Motul ever said that though.
 
Good. I don't know what oils are available where you live but my uncle put a lot of hard (Arizona heat) miles on his R 1150 RS using Mobil 1 15W-50.
 
I'm so confused in this thread. Your whole premise seemed to be that you had heard on the interwebs that the Nikasil coating was being damaged "due to the corrosion done by the acids and alcohols" which was not correct. So doesn't the owner's manual for your bike give a BMW approval or specification for the required oil? Your statement "The oil has all the additives the BMW boxer engine requires" cannot be correct, you do not really know all the additives and specifications and requirements for your engine, especially since the product data sheets don't give that information.

What exactly does BMW say in in the owner's manual for this bike? I realize it will be old but at least it is a starting point. All I've seen so far is a bunch of chasing nothing in this thread, full of misconceptions and presuppositions that aren't correct.
 
My manual says to use API classified oils with the tags SF, SG and SH (also CD or CE), viscosity should be 15W50. Let´s forget about the acids and alcohols I was talking about, someone pointed out that as water isn´t hydrogen and oxygen by itself, so esters also don`t act like acid, just because they are formulated from it.

My engine has flat tappets so it requires an oil with higher ZDDP, regarding the standars, I read from Motul´s techincal datasheet that 300V oils are all above the existing standards. Looking at the analysis of the oil it has a fairly good amount of ZDDP in it, which should protect the flat tappets. The reason I don´t use motorcycle specific oils are:

1. They are often more exprensive
2. I have separate transmission lubrication and the clutch is dry. That means, the engine oil lubricates only the engine. I don´t need additives for the transmission. Also, all the new motorcycle oils are certified JASO, that means, the internal friction in the engine is higher, since they are not friction modified because of the possibility of slipping wet clutch. I would use Mobil 1 15W-50 car oil, but I can´t get it in my country. Here we have 5W-50 from Mobil. That´s why I used Motul. The only question that remains is if it is suitable for my engine, I do around 2000 - 2500 miles per year and change oil at the end of every season.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by BalancePoint
With all this talk about Motul motorcycle oil in particular, what's the difference between their 7100 synthetic and 300V?


Not sure, probably 300V has formulation that is better suited for racing, while the 7100 is more street orientated oil, meant to clean the engine better and for longer OCI. Although in my case we are not talking about a motorcycle oil, but a car oil, Motul 300V Competition.
 
300V has a TBN of 8.5. That is more than enough active additive to keep an engine clean far longer than most guys in this thread are willing to say. Otherwise if it is truly used up after a six-hour endurance race, since most guys are saying it should be, then it's a crappy oil and it wouldn't have any TBN to begin with, which is false.

In the motorcycle oil analysis forum there is an active thread of motul 10w40 300v that after 1,100 miles has a TBN of 7.0. Would that oil not be suitable to continue? I'm not seeing it so far to support that it's a short oci oil.
 
Originally Posted by Bonz
300V has a TBN of 8.5. That is more than enough active additive to keep an engine clean far longer than most guys in this thread are willing to say. Otherwise if it is truly used up after a six-hour endurance race, since most guys are saying it should be, then it's a crappy oil and it wouldn't have any TBN to begin with, which is false.

In the motorcycle oil analysis forum there is an active thread of motul 10w40 300v that after 1,100 miles has a TBN of 7.0. Would that oil not be suitable to continue? I'm not seeing it so far to support that it's a short oci oil.






I agree, the TBN number is quite high. So is having the 300V Competition (car oil) in an engine for 2500 miles ok, or should I change it sooner?
 
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