Ester based motorcycle oil

I've run the Amsoil Metric 10w-40 in my 1984 V65 Magna for 20 years..great stuff!! Prior I was using genuine Honda 10w-40 conventional oil. The positives with Amsoil are the engine runs cooler and the oil stays clean longer.
 
I might give the Red Line 10W-30 motorcycle oil a try. It's in stock near me, meets all my owner's manual requirements, is made in the USA, and seems to get good reviews. The other oil I am looking at is the Klotz TechniPlate 10W-30, but there is not much info on it.
The Redline 10W-30 Motoryclce oil has HTHS 3.8, the HONDA oil 10W-30 how much ?
I still have some fear about Moly percentage.

Amsoil Metric 10W30 used and works nice without problems even after speed run.

Motul 300V Factory Line unfortunately don't find it on 10W30 for my Honda, and use the 10W40 one.
The problem was on cold start engine denied to rev up easy.
 
i would never run 8k on any motorcycle
You might be right. My manual states, "Engine oil consumption varies, and oil quality deteriorates according to riding conditions and time elapsed," and "Dirty oil or old oil should be changed as soon as possible." It also says for the interval, "Regular = every 8,000 miles." So, does that mean the owner's manual 8,000-mile interval is based on riding my motorcycle like a grandma? And that for fast street/track days, I need to change it every 1500 miles? I'm not sure. Can I change the oil based on color for this motorcycle application?
 
You might be right. My manual states, "Engine oil consumption varies, and oil quality deteriorates according to riding conditions and time elapsed," and "Dirty oil or old oil should be changed as soon as possible." It also says for the interval, "Regular = every 8,000 miles." So, does that mean the owner's manual 8,000-mile interval is based on riding my motorcycle like a grandma? And that for fast street/track days, I need to change it every 1500 miles? I'm not sure. Can I change the oil based on color for this motorcycle application?
sportbike, 4,000 mile max

I dont care what the manual says, mine is 2 to 3,000 miles
 
Since you are considering Motul 300v 10w40... Mobil 1 10w40 4T. Haven't had anything but stellar results myself or seen anything but good reports on it in all my years on this forum. It has a good dose of zinc, nice amount of boron as well. If you're going to change oil every 2 or 3,000 miles and throw good stuff away, it'll save some money over any other option you are considering and doesn't give up anything in protection to the options you're considering.

With respect to Honda recommending 10w30, some folks sit hard and fast on that specification but somehow don't believe Honda that the oil can go longer than 2000 or 3000 miles, LOL.
 
Since you are considering Motul 300v 10w40... Mobil 1 10w40 4T. Haven't had anything but stellar results myself or seen anything but good reports on it in all my years on this forum. It has a good dose of zinc, nice amount of boron as well. If you're going to change oil every 2 or 3,000 miles and throw good stuff away, it'll save some money over any other option you are considering and doesn't give up anything in protection to the options you're considering.

With respect to Honda recommending 10w30, some folks sit hard and fast on that specification but somehow don't believe Honda that the oil can go longer than 2000 or 3000 miles, LOL.
Thanks for the input. What do you think is in the 300V that makes it $23 a quart? Is it just marketing? And conversely, what's in the Mobil 1 that makes it $10 a quart?
 
Thanks for the input. What do you think is in the 300V that makes it $23 a quart? Is it just marketing? And conversely, what's in the Mobil 1 that makes it $10 a quart?
personally i used twice in the past, back to back oil changes to my honda bike.
Can't get 10W30 viscosity and try the 10W40 one FL Road Racing (exist also an off road one)

as operation works outstanding, really i like them for that 2 oil changes except the only problem that happen to me...
on cold start bike stall if oil temp and water temp don't rise a bit, really denied to rev on 1st gear.

Gearbox love it, and on heavy braking 6th to 2nd gear fast, engine was run ok from oil temps.

Now for the price 23 dollar per 946ml , I pay 25 euro for 1L in Greece from the official distributor.

On the past SDS shows 50% PAO, and rest HC if I remember correct, of course formulations all time change and really is a pain to know what is today inside in every oil brand.

Mobil 1 10W40 Racing not available on Greece and can't tell you what price would be.
 
Thanks for the input. What do you think is in the 300V that makes it $23 a quart? Is it just marketing? And conversely, what's in the Mobil 1 that makes it $10 a quart?
Marketing certainly could be one yet Mobil markets their oils quite heavily. I wouldn't look at a specific oil, look at the overall marketing in general.

The question seems to be leading down the road that if it costs more it must be better.

Try the Motul for an oil change interval and do an analysis. Then run the Mobil 1 and do an analysis. Maybe you can find the $13 a difference per quart golden ticket answer. As for most folks, I don't think they could find a $13 a quart difference in analysis results or any other metric such as shift quality.

For me, results of used oil analysis that I have done with 10w40 4T and 20w50 V-Twin speak for themselves. They hold grade, shift quality remains consistent, and they could last well beyond the 5,000 miles I run them based on remaining TBN.
 


This guy did VOA on yamalube gp, which is similar to my Honda HP4RU oil and the motul 300v in terms of marketing and price. The report didnt seem special and made the amsoil look better. Is there anything oil analysis doesn't show?
 


This guy did VOA on yamalube gp, which is similar to my Honda HP4RU oil and the motul 300v in terms of marketing and price. The report didnt seem special and made the amsoil look better. Is there anything oil analysis doesn't show?

I think this is Group III oil from Yamaha.
 
This guy did VOA on yamalube gp, which is similar to my Honda HP4RU oil and the motul 300v in terms of marketing and price. The report didnt seem special and made the amsoil look better. Is there anything oil analysis doesn't show?
There isn’t much that it does show in regards to what you’re looking for.
 
See thread title, look at a $30 UOA from any lab. What word (or organic compound) is not on the report?

It's better to do that than have someone repeat the same two lines every two days.
@Pablo please explain it to me. I am like a kid who's lost in school, and the teacher keeps trying to give hints. Are you saying that the oil analysis doesn’t show the base oils used (e.g., ester)?
 
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